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Here is the MX200 manual and some Sound on Sound reviews that give you the features and differences between MX200 & MX400.
I have an old MX200 and really like it. But I think the key thing to be aware of is that it's really built for line level signals, not instrument level. I.e., when used w/ instrument level signals, you're throwing away a fair amount of signal-to-noise ratio.
Who said anything about instrument level?
 
I got myself one of those neck humbucker FSR teles from CMS ... it's wonderful but the gloss finish on the fretboard is taking some getting used to
Ya, you can see the glossy one behind it. Not my favorite, but it's not too bad. I took some 0000 steel wool to the back of the neck and it's much better.
 
That's a good price. Do me a favor and DON'T tell me how much you like it like @peccary did. I'm broke AF
I found one on "offer up" in Boston for $150, but he didn't want to ship. I didn't want to wait any longer and I don't see myself dropping $650 for one channel 1176 any time soon so I saw an opportunity. He was asking 275 but actually accepted my 260 offer after less than an hour. I had just offered 275 to some guy in Boulder the day before but he didn't even respond. I'll try to keep my glee to myself now.
 
I found one on "offer up" in Boston for $150, but he didn't want to ship. I didn't want to wait any longer and I don't see myself dropping $650 for one channel 1176 any time soon so I saw an opportunity. He was asking 275 but actually accepted my 260 offer after less than an hour. I had just offered 275 to some guy in Boulder the day before but he didn't even respond. I'll try to keep my glee to myself now.


I really love mine. It sounds great on bass and is also great for pulling complete songs together. @Harry Klippton will end up with one of these days, I just know it!

I'm probably going to get myself the MPAII as well - I was actually just reading up on them (again) just before reading this thread. I'll have to wait a little bit, though, as I've gone a bit crazy on adding to my home "studio" lately.
 
Once it's verified as working, as always with these units, recommend popping the top and checking the battery and PSU caps. Maybe even power supply voltages. And be sure it's rated for 110/117/120 before plugging in. As wall voltage has increased over the years, tweaking the PSU rails may be needed.
If the battery is in a clip, someone has replaced it at some point as the originals were soldered in. If needed, a flush mount CR2032 battery clip from tayda, etc should work. Anything under 2.7ish means it's done.
 
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