Which soldering iron do you like?

[Hal Harvey]

Is that the MFR-1110?

Yes. I’m pretty happy with it. Heats up fast. Time per solder joint is way less than my Weller WE1010 and joint quality is consistently better. The tips are more expensive but also more robust.

One of the reasons I bought it was for eventually trying my hand at SMD work but I’ve not done that yet. I’d imagine it’s heads and tails better than the Weller for that type of work too.

Pricey, but I wonder how many less troubleshooting threads we’d have if everyone had decent tools

 

[Ginsly]

I use a Pinecil and it's great for PCB work but it's a bit fiddly and I don't know how reliable it is in the long run. Not enough tips and the company is horrible, they only sell tips in 4-packs that are absurdly sorted, you have to buy 3 useless tips to get a useful one. They cost as much as the iron itself. Shipping from China takes a month or more, the EU store has crazy prices. I don't recommend it unless you're willing to buy a new iron if it wets the bed. I have to say it heats up in 10 seconds and the sleep function is fantastic. It's very small and I use a 65W PD phone charger with it.

Can I ask if you're still using a Pinecil? I have a Hakko and love it, but I may need a "no cables" portable iron too. Thought I'd see what you think of it these days - thanks!

 

[andare]

Can I ask if you're still using a Pinecil? I have a Hakko and love it, but I may need a "no cables" portable iron too. Thought I'd see what you think of it these days - thanks!

I still have it but I haven't been building anything for a long time. For wiring up guitars it sucks cause it can't heat up the back of pots.
It's not wireless though. It needs to be connected to a USB charger

 

[Ginsly]

I still have it but I haven't been building anything for a long time. For wiring up guitars it sucks cause it can't heat up the back of pots.
It's not wireless though. It needs to be connected to a USB charger

Ahhh I see. Figured it just needed to be plugged in to charge.

 

[Synchrony Pedalworks]

I'd definitely recommend the Hakko unless you need something more. If you get the FX888 or FX888D go ahead and order some spare barrels, you'll need them when it comes time to change the tip. They tend to always seize up in there.

@Robert I just got the Hakko FX888DX model. My old soldering iron had the tip seize in it, and I couldn't get it out. Can you point me in the right direction for the barrels that you are mentioning in your post. Thanks!

 

[darwin999]

There are good high-temperature anti-seize products out there, and I use them on my iron and have no issues.
I bought a tube eons ago, and it lasts a lifetime.

This is just the result from a quick search, it's way more than you need - I include it only to note that stuff like this exists.

Amazon.com: Loctite 34517 White LB 8036 High-Temperature Anti-Seize Lubricant, -20 Degree F Lower Temperature Rating to 2000 Degree F Upper Temperature Rating, 8 fl. oz. Brush Top Can : Automotive

Amazon.com: Loctite 34517 White LB 8036 High-Temperature Anti-Seize Lubricant, -20 Degree F Lower Temperature Rating to 2000 Degree F Upper Temperature Rating, 8 fl. oz. Brush Top Can : Automotive

www.amazon.com

This specific product is good to 2000F/1090C.

 

[Synchrony Pedalworks]

There are good high-temperature anti-seize products out there, and I use them on my iron and have no issues.
I bought a tube eons ago, and it lasts a lifetime.

This is just the result from a quick search, it's way more than you need - I include it only to note that stuff like this exists.

Amazon.com: Loctite 34517 White LB 8036 High-Temperature Anti-Seize Lubricant, -20 Degree F Lower Temperature Rating to 2000 Degree F Upper Temperature Rating, 8 fl. oz. Brush Top Can : Automotive

Amazon.com: Loctite 34517 White LB 8036 High-Temperature Anti-Seize Lubricant, -20 Degree F Lower Temperature Rating to 2000 Degree F Upper Temperature Rating, 8 fl. oz. Brush Top Can : Automotive

www.amazon.com

This specific product is good to 2000F/

Ahh, that could really help. Great idea!

 

[jessenator]

I didn't start the necro …but I'm going to take advantage of it

I bought an FX-951 years ago after being "tricked" into buying one by a computer repair talking head years ago. I'm an impatient bugger, so I liked the quick swapping they demonstrated. Given the long tip length, you just use the pop-out grip (mine came with a tip carousel)



I've just learned that cheapo and fake tips for this are garbage. Sadly there's only one US based seller for them.

Changing temp is weird, but I don't mind it.

 

[jessenator]

One thing the crappy MiC tips are good for is mangling PLA or other 3D prints, so I set it aside for that, and that's the only time I change it.