I’m not smart enough to explain the science but soldering using an induction system feels way more consistent … and even more consistent across different thermal masses. Soldering a switch lug is basically as fast-easy as a resistor lead.
Which soldering iron do you like?
- Thread starter Locrian99
- Start date
I just know it heats super fast - maintains temp and is very "light" in terms of the handpiece
SmartHeat® heaters® heaters consist of two basic elements; a high-frequency alternating current (AC) power supply, and a heating element. The biggest difference between a conventional soldering station which consists of a ceramic or wire wound heating element, separate sensor and temperature control circuitry, and a Metcal heater is that the Metcal heating element itself is capable of heating and then maintaining a predetermined temperature. In other words “the heater is the sensor.”
The Metcal heater depends upon the electrical and metallurgical characteristics of two different metals; copper is a material with high electrical conductivity and the other is a magnetic material with high resistivity.
When the Metcal heating element is energized by the high-frequency alternating current (AC) power source, the current will automatically begin to flow thru the conductive copper core of the heater. However, as the AC current continues to flow, a very useful physical phenomenon occurs, the current flow is directed to the skin of the heater assembly. This is of course known as the “Skin Effect”, it drives the majority of the current through the high resistance magnetic layer, causing rapid heating.
The Curie Point
As the outer layer reaches a certain temperature (which is controlled by its heater alloy formula) it loses its magnetic properties. As most of you know this “certain temperature” is the Curie point. The Curie point temperature is when the “skin effect” begins to decrease again, permitting the current back into the conductive core of the heater starting the whole cycle over again.The selection of a material with a fixed Curie point results in a heater that will produce and maintain a specific, self‐regulated temperature; and a heater that requires no calibration and responds directly to thermal loads. When a thermal load is applied to the tip, the heater temperature drops, and the power supply responds with the power required to correctly solder the joint on the board.
I've been using a Circuit Specialists Station 75 unit for the past few years. And I've been fairly happy with it. But I just upgraded to the Weller WE1010NA.
Here are my reasons for upgrading and why I choose the Weller unit.
Better tip temperature consistency.
Sleep mode.
On/off on front of station.
Longer iron wand lead.
Easy temp control change.
I did not consider the Hakko unit due to the numerous mentions the less than simple matter of turning a knob or pushing an up/down button to change the temp.
Here are my reasons for upgrading and why I choose the Weller unit.
Better tip temperature consistency.
Sleep mode.
On/off on front of station.
Longer iron wand lead.
Easy temp control change.
I did not consider the Hakko unit due to the numerous mentions the less than simple matter of turning a knob or pushing an up/down button to change the temp.
KR Sound
Well-known member
Is that the MFR-1110?
Yes. I’m pretty happy with it. Heats up fast. Time per solder joint is way less than my Weller WE1010 and joint quality is consistently better. The tips are more expensive but also more robust.
One of the reasons I bought it was for eventually trying my hand at SMD work but I’ve not done that yet. I’d imagine it’s heads and tails better than the Weller for that type of work too.
Pricey, but I wonder how many less troubleshooting threads we’d have if everyone had decent tools
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Can I ask if you're still using a Pinecil? I have a Hakko and love it, but I may need a "no cables" portable iron too. Thought I'd see what you think of it these days - thanks!
andare
Well-known member
I still have it but I haven't been building anything for a long time. For wiring up guitars it sucks cause it can't heat up the back of pots.
It's not wireless though. It needs to be connected to a USB charger
Ahhh I see. Figured it just needed to be plugged in to charge.
