Which soldering iron do you like?


I just know it heats super fast - maintains temp and is very "light" in terms of the handpiece

SmartHeat® heaters® heaters consist of two basic elements; a high-frequency alternating current (AC) power supply, and a heating element. The biggest difference between a conventional soldering station which consists of a ceramic or wire wound heating element, separate sensor and temperature control circuitry, and a Metcal heater is that the Metcal heating element itself is capable of heating and then maintaining a predetermined temperature. In other words “the heater is the sensor.”

The Metcal heater depends upon the electrical and metallurgical characteristics of two different metals; copper is a material with high electrical conductivity and the other is a magnetic material with high resistivity.

When the Metcal heating element is energized by the high-frequency alternating current (AC) power source, the current will automatically begin to flow thru the conductive copper core of the heater. However, as the AC current continues to flow, a very useful physical phenomenon occurs, the current flow is directed to the skin of the heater assembly. This is of course known as the “Skin Effect”, it drives the majority of the current through the high resistance magnetic layer, causing rapid heating.

The Curie Point​

As the outer layer reaches a certain temperature (which is controlled by its heater alloy formula) it loses its magnetic properties. As most of you know this “certain temperature” is the Curie point. The Curie point temperature is when the “skin effect” begins to decrease again, permitting the current back into the conductive core of the heater starting the whole cycle over again.

The selection of a material with a fixed Curie point results in a heater that will produce and maintain a specific, self‐regulated temperature; and a heater that requires no calibration and responds directly to thermal loads. When a thermal load is applied to the tip, the heater temperature drops, and the power supply responds with the power required to correctly solder the joint on the board.
 
I've been using a Circuit Specialists Station 75 unit for the past few years. And I've been fairly happy with it. But I just upgraded to the Weller WE1010NA.

Here are my reasons for upgrading and why I choose the Weller unit.

Better tip temperature consistency.
Sleep mode.
On/off on front of station.
Longer iron wand lead.
Easy temp control change.

I did not consider the Hakko unit due to the numerous mentions the less than simple matter of turning a knob or pushing an up/down button to change the temp.
 
KR Sound said:
Is that the MFR-1110?
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Yes. I’m pretty happy with it. Heats up fast. Time per solder joint is way less than my Weller WE1010 and joint quality is consistently better. The tips are more expensive but also more robust.

One of the reasons I bought it was for eventually trying my hand at SMD work but I’ve not done that yet. I’d imagine it’s heads and tails better than the Weller for that type of work too.

Pricey, but I wonder how many less troubleshooting threads we’d have if everyone had decent tools :)
 
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andare said:
I use a Pinecil and it's great for PCB work but it's a bit fiddly and I don't know how reliable it is in the long run. Not enough tips and the company is horrible, they only sell tips in 4-packs that are absurdly sorted, you have to buy 3 useless tips to get a useful one. They cost as much as the iron itself. Shipping from China takes a month or more, the EU store has crazy prices. I don't recommend it unless you're willing to buy a new iron if it wets the bed. I have to say it heats up in 10 seconds and the sleep function is fantastic. It's very small and I use a 65W PD phone charger with it.
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Can I ask if you're still using a Pinecil? I have a Hakko and love it, but I may need a "no cables" portable iron too. Thought I'd see what you think of it these days - thanks!
 
Ginsly said:
Can I ask if you're still using a Pinecil? I have a Hakko and love it, but I may need a "no cables" portable iron too. Thought I'd see what you think of it these days - thanks!
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I still have it but I haven't been building anything for a long time. For wiring up guitars it sucks cause it can't heat up the back of pots.
It's not wireless though. It needs to be connected to a USB charger
 
andare said:
I still have it but I haven't been building anything for a long time. For wiring up guitars it sucks cause it can't heat up the back of pots.
It's not wireless though. It needs to be connected to a USB charger
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Ahhh I see. Figured it just needed to be plugged in to charge.
 
Robert said:
I'd definitely recommend the Hakko unless you need something more. If you get the FX888 or FX888D go ahead and order some spare barrels, you'll need them when it comes time to change the tip. They tend to always seize up in there.
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@Robert I just got the Hakko FX888DX model. My old soldering iron had the tip seize in it, and I couldn't get it out. Can you point me in the right direction for the barrels that you are mentioning in your post. Thanks!
 
There are good high-temperature anti-seize products out there, and I use them on my iron and have no issues.
I bought a tube eons ago, and it lasts a lifetime.

This is just the result from a quick search, it's way more than you need - I include it only to note that stuff like this exists.

Amazon.com: Loctite 34517 White LB 8036 High-Temperature Anti-Seize Lubricant, -20 Degree F Lower Temperature Rating to 2000 Degree F Upper Temperature Rating, 8 fl. oz. Brush Top Can : Automotive

Amazon.com: Loctite 34517 White LB 8036 High-Temperature Anti-Seize Lubricant, -20 Degree F Lower Temperature Rating to 2000 Degree F Upper Temperature Rating, 8 fl. oz. Brush Top Can : Automotive
www.amazon.com
This specific product is good to 2000F/1090C.
 
darwin999 said:
There are good high-temperature anti-seize products out there, and I use them on my iron and have no issues.
I bought a tube eons ago, and it lasts a lifetime.

This is just the result from a quick search, it's way more than you need - I include it only to note that stuff like this exists.

Amazon.com: Loctite 34517 White LB 8036 High-Temperature Anti-Seize Lubricant, -20 Degree F Lower Temperature Rating to 2000 Degree F Upper Temperature Rating, 8 fl. oz. Brush Top Can : Automotive

Amazon.com: Loctite 34517 White LB 8036 High-Temperature Anti-Seize Lubricant, -20 Degree F Lower Temperature Rating to 2000 Degree F Upper Temperature Rating, 8 fl. oz. Brush Top Can : Automotive
www.amazon.com
This specific product is good to 2000F/
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Ahh, that could really help. Great idea!
 
I didn't start the necro …but I'm going to take advantage of it

I bought an FX-951 years ago after being "tricked" into buying one by a computer repair talking head years ago. I'm an impatient bugger, so I liked the quick swapping they demonstrated. Given the long tip length, you just use the pop-out grip (mine came with a tip carousel)

1746660690881.jpeg 1746660871670.jpeg 1746661001239.jpeg

I've just learned that cheapo and fake tips for this are garbage. Sadly there's only one US based seller for them.

Changing temp is weird, but I don't mind it.
 
One thing the crappy MiC tips are good for is mangling PLA or other 3D prints, so I set it aside for that, and that's the only time I change it.
 
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