Let's Talk Velcro For A Moment

Dual-lock doesn’t have a B side that sticks to the A side, it sticks to it’s self. It will mate with the fuzzy side of regular Velcro quite well though. So if you’re transitioning or have a mix of dual-lock and Velcro it can work to a point. Just depends on your use case.
 
BryGuy said:
Dual-lock doesn’t have a B side that sticks to the A side, it sticks to it’s self. It will mate with the fuzzy side of regular Velcro quite well though. So if you’re transitioning or have a mix of dual-lock and Velcro it can work to a point. Just depends on your use case.
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Whoa I had no idea it would stick to loop Velcro. That's great
 
Dual-lock typically just comes in a roll and if you’re ordering 3 feet or 1 meter, that’s all you’re getting. Not like Velcro where you would get 3 feet of the A side and the B side. Something to keep in mind as well when ordering.
 
BryGuy said:
Dual-lock typically just comes in a roll and if you’re ordering 3 feet or 1 meter, that’s all you’re getting. Not like Velcro where you would get 3 feet of the A side and the B side. Something to keep in mind as well when ordering.
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A little goes a long way with dual-lock. But it definitely adds up quick.
 
Yeah the pedals I have dual-lock on I only put little squares in the for corners. Still hard to pull off sometimes.
 
Big Monk said:
I see a lot of people with Temple Audio boards doing that because their mounts are trash and the holes make it difficult to put dual lock or Velcro down without obstructing the path for cables.
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I had to go back and check pictures, it looks like his is a Chemistry Design Werks board, but same idea as the Temple Audio boards. I'm not a fan.
 
Pauleo1214 said:
A trick you might want to consider is the use of 3 in 1 automotive lubricant and a single edge razor blade. The blade should be able to slice through the back of the velcro. Any adhesive left can be polished off. If the finish on the pedal is a clear coat of poly, you can use acetone to dissolve some of the adhesive residue.
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No—not acetone!! Acetone is a really strong solvent, and will cut through most polyester (and polyurethane) finishes.Alcohol (which is strong enough to affect nitro and some acrylic based lacquers) would be okay on a poly finish, but it might soften it, so I'd go easy.

I always start with mineral spirits (kerosene), and if that doesn't work, I move up to naphtha. Then alcohol. Acetone would be next, probably followed by Toluene or Benzene. But really, all three are dangerous to use, for both the pedal and non-industrial use.
 
Alan W said:
No—not acetone!! Acetone is a really strong solvent, and will cut through most polyester (and polyurethane) finishes.Alcohol (which is strong enough to affect nitro and some acrylic based lacquers) would be okay on a poly finish, but it might soften it, so I'd go easy.

I always start with mineral spirits (kerosene), and if that doesn't work, I move up to naphtha. Then alcohol. Acetone would be next, probably followed by Toluene or Benzene. But really, all three are dangerous to use, for both the pedal and non-industrial use.
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Please note I wrote "if". Acetone is ok on a catalyzed polyurethane based finishes. It can dissolve the adhesive without affecting the finish.

Acetone can dissolve a lot of plastics and nitro. I highly doubt anyone uses nitro as a topcoat for pedals.
 
Made a quick video to clarify my point about acetone and catalyzed poly finishes by taking the stuff to my vexter series fuzz factory. Again, exercise caution. For instance I likely wouldn't take this stuff to one of my behringer pedals encased in plastic.


I'd be happy to make another video of me squirting acetone on my PRS CE22 signed by Paul himself!
 
I don't know if it's available outside Australia but eucalytus oil is amazing for getting rid of sticky goo. I've never had it affect a finish either. Plus it smells nice and mums use it here on hankies to clear the nasal passages - it's quite a pungent smell!

I dislike velcro for it's ability to collect hair, pet fur, bits of paper, dead bugs... So I use double sided tape. The slightly puffy stuff you stick mirrors to walls with. Pedals stay stuck but it's not too hard to remove them. It's just not reusable. No detritus trapped, so I'm happy.
 
I will also recommend dual lock over Velcro.

That said if you are really sure you have something you don’t want to move… I use bicycle chain links. Attach to the pedal using the screws that hold the bottom plate on, then screw the other hole of the chain link into the board…
 
In case nobody mentioned this, you need very little Velcro on the bottom of the pedal. I usually put two strips maybe 1/2” wide, and as long as the short size of the pedal (hooks side). It minimizes the amount of Velcro you need, so it’s easier to take off if needed, and it makes it easier to move pedals around.

A tip for pedals with feet, if you can’t remove them: you can make a riser with Velcro itself by sticking two pieces together. I have done that with my Minifoogers for example.

For Boss pedals: you can flip the bottom of the pedal so you get a nice metal surface instead of rubber, no need to buy a replacement!

By the way, all the above applies to dual lock as well.
 
How many strips of velcro would you guys use on the main board? 1 or 2? I'm thinking 1 and done, but wondering what you guys think
 
Pauleo1214 said:
Made a quick video to clarify my point about acetone and catalyzed poly finishes by taking the stuff to my vexter series fuzz factory. Again, exercise caution. For instance I likely wouldn't take this stuff to one of my behringer pedals encased in plastic.


I'd be happy to make another video of me squirting acetone on my PRS CE22 signed by Paul himself!
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None of my vexter series pedals have a noticeable topcoat over the silkscreen as far as I’ve noticed, and I was under the impression that they used an enamel-based ink for the screen printing on them, which would be impacted by acetone, albeit not immediately. I wonder if they’ve done different methods over the years
 
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