Bricksnbeatles
Member known well
Is that a clear footswitch washer?
That's the thing, 1% tolerance means the resistor is dead on 12k. I always dread desoldering parts but a single resistor should be easy enough. I'll try.With them being 1% tolerance, I dare say it won’t make a difference.
Yes! Protects the art/paint but also shows the artwork underneath. Mine are just some random ones from Aliexpress, and they are actually pretty thin and soft, so not at all rigid and hard like normal washers. But they do the trick, protect the enclosure while I tighten the footswitch nut. I might prefer if someone has found rigid ones though, since at least once the washer got sort of... wrinkled? It got twisted around. I tried again with another one and it was fine, but I'm sure there could be better options.Is that a clear footswitch washer?
I hate desoldering too since I've had some bad experiences. You could try carefully filing it a bit to get it to 13k if you have a small file, but tbh I'd probably finish the rest of the build first and see if it works like that?Ok I tried desoldering that damn resistor and the son of a bitch wouldn't budge even with the SS02. Amateur hour!
...what if I don't have any nonworking boards and don't want to sacrifice anything that works for that? I could maybe do some veroboard but I feel like that might be an easier thing.Practice desoldering an entire board (we all have one in the drawer of shame). Your desolder game will get up to speed quickly.
What is the white thingy? I've been meaning to build some simple utility pedals, for example an A/B switch to audition pedals etc.I gotta make some more cables and get this plugged in too
View attachment 52105
I actually did that when I got the SS02, using a board of shame.Practice desoldering an entire board (we all have one in the drawer of shame). Your desolder game will get up to speed quickly.
Sooner or later you will mess up royally or you'll have a board that doesn't quite behave as it should and troubleshooting becomes annoying after a while so you'll decide to sacrifice it for the sake of sanity. I have a Minnow like that, it worked but there was a volume drop. Nothing helped so now it sits there waiting to be pillaged....what if I don't have any nonworking boards and don't want to sacrifice anything that works for that? I could maybe do some veroboard but I feel like that might be an easier thing.
Yeah, you can use vero or sacrifice a working board. Nothing you'd want to reuse, odds are you lift a pad as you test your patience limits...what if I don't have any nonworking boards and don't want to sacrifice anything that works for that? I could maybe do some veroboard but I feel like that might be an easier thing.
It's the dual effects loop switcher.What is the white thingy? I've been meaning to build some simple utility pedals, for example an A/B switch to audition pedals etc.
I should mention that I do have intentions of using this section for post-processing in stereoView attachment 52049
This in mono is practically criminal
Still gonna sound absolutely killer, but it’s begging to be in a hard-panned stereo rig
Thank god! I need to hearI should mention that I do have intentions of using this section for post-processing in stereo
The original release had the error (1uF). The board wasn’t revised, and the document is only partially corrected. 1nF is indeed correct there.Only weird thing about the build was the C3 which had the footprint of a 1uF film cap, but the actual parts value list said 1nF, the schematic said 1nF... and the shopping list said 1uF? I searched around and the Dirtbox Layouts one said 1nF, and a thread on this forum mentioned that Effects Layouts had 1uF there while every other place (and some production shots of the original one?) had 1nF, so I assume that must have been a mistake with Effects Layouts that they only partially corrected.
Ok I was soldering solid core to the board to connect to the 3pdt...ended up lifting the SW pad.Trying to box up the Low Tide has been terrible today. There's no space vertically - a 1590BB is too short - and my drilling is ok but the faceplate compounds any imperfection. Tomorrow I have to drill all the pot holes larger because there's no way 6 pots are gonna fit. And don't get me started on the LED. I have no idea how I'm going to make it snap into the lens.
Honestly I thought of hanging up the soldering iron for good today. It's been a few years and I still struggle with drilling, wiring etc. I can't stand how small and fiddly everything is. Clearly this hobby is not for me.
I think I'll stop building with PCBs and only focus on occasional fuzz pedals in humongous enclosures with gigantic components and hardware only.
Plus what's the point of building more stuff? It's not like I'm selling anything. I'm just spending money on effects I'll never use.
Ok I'll tune back in when I'm less angry and bummed out.
Nah. It’s still possible to salvage it. The SW pad connects to the cathode (K) of the LED. You can run a connection from the LED to your 3PDT.Ok I was soldering solid core to the board to connect to the 3pdt...ended up lifting the SW pad.
So now this expensive board is ruined.
Gonna go out for a walk to calm my nerves down