New project stuff maybe?

[vigilante398]

Are you still looking at making the board fit inside a Tayda enclosure? And are you thinking about selling CNC'd enclosures for the project?

With the notch cut out like this it will fit in the Tayda enclosure, the only issue is the extra thick walls, you have to leave off the washers to get the nuts threaded onto the pots, but I'll still make the template available if anyone wants to take a look at it and give it a shot. I may pick up an actual Hammond 1590DD, the walls are thinner on those. If I feel good about that one I'll offer CNC milled enclosures.

 

[Bricksnbeatles]

I’ve never understood why the Tayda dd enclosures are so thick, but it seems like it would be easy enough to cut a counterbore to allow the nuts to fully thread— either by cutting a counterbore on the top to allow the washer and nut to set into, or a wider one on the interior for the pots to recess into. This type of counterbore but is easy to get ahold of for anyone looking to do it, and should do the trick in mere seconds for anyone with a drill press with a depth stop

 

[vigilante398]

I’ve never understood why the Tayda dd enclosures are so thick, but it seems like it would be easy enough to cut a counterbore to allow the nuts to fully thread— either by cutting a counterbore on the top to allow the washer and nut to set into, or a wider one on the interior for the pots to recess into. This type of counterbore but is easy to get ahold of for anyone looking to do it, and should do the trick in mere seconds for anyone with a drill press with a depth stop
View attachment 55852

Yeah I was thinking about doing that to this enclosure, since I already paid for it and frankly everything fits really well so it seems a shame to waste it.

 

[music6000]

I don't know why they do it with the 9mm pots with 5 legs soldered in on the standard single gang but some brands have the little locking tab or pin at the base where it tightens against the underside of the enclosure!
You have to cut it off as it will not allow enough threads & when you tighten it, it cocks the shaft out of whack & puts strain on the PCB!
Same concept as the 16mm pot tab that we remove.

 

[music6000]

I’ve never understood why the Tayda dd enclosures are so thick, but it seems like it would be easy enough to cut a counterbore to allow the nuts to fully thread— either by cutting a counterbore on the top to allow the washer and nut to set into, or a wider one on the interior for the pots to recess into. This type of counterbore but is easy to get ahold of for anyone looking to do it, and should do the trick in mere seconds for anyone with a drill press with a depth stop

I was going to suggest that to for this & other 9mm builds with thick enclosures but if you have toggle switches, they need to be counterbored to.
Doing it on the face could be disastrous for chip out on the Powder coated enclosures & graphics???

 

[Bricksnbeatles]

I was going to suggest that to for this & other 9mm builds with thick enclosures but if you have toggle switches, they need to be counterbored to.
Doing it on the face could be disastrous for chip out on the Powder coated enclosures & graphics???

Most toggle switches have ample thread length in my experience. Don’t think they would need to be counterbored as well

 

[mdc]

With the notch cut out like this it will fit in the Tayda enclosure, the only issue is the extra thick walls, you have to leave off the washers to get the nuts threaded onto the pots, but I'll still make the template available if anyone wants to take a look at it and give it a shot. I may pick up an actual Hammond 1590DD, the walls are thinner on those. If I feel good about that one I'll offer CNC milled enclosures.

There might be an eddystone that would work well for you? They often have sharper corners/more room inside/etc.

 

[music6000]

Most toggle switches have ample thread length in my experience. Don’t think they would need to be counterbored as well

The issue is the toggle switch body depth doesn't allow the 9mm pots enough length if you counterbore???

 

[music6000]

It's a giant absurd project that nobody really needs, so naturally everyone wants one

Where are you at with the PCB & finding an enclosure?

 

[zgrav]

presumably a non-virtual enclosure.

 

[vigilante398]

Where are you at with the PCB & finding an enclosure?

Revised PCBs with the notch were ordered yesterday, I'll probably have them in hand close to the end of the month. I have a non-Tayda 1590DD on hand that I need to measure to see if the walls are thinner than Tayda's box. I'll keep the Tayda drill template public in case anyone wants to try counterboring that one, because I don't want to be the sole source for these enclosures and I want people to be able to get powdercoats and UV prints.

 

[vigilante398]

Just checked in on the PCBs, it's in an order with a handful of other projects, but it's the most time-consuming one as it's the only 6-layer board and the rest are 4-layer. Current estimated completion date is September 18 for the 4-layer boards and September 20 for the 6-layer. I paid for express shipping (as one does when one is impatient) so I'll likely see them by the 25th or so, allowing for packing and shipping.

 

[zgrav]

thanks for the update.

 

[Feral Feline]

"End-Mill Bits" are what I look for when counterboring.

In my experience, they are not easy to find because
A) They're scarce
B) Sales-people think I'm asking for a counter-sink bit — which I DON'T WANT.

I can never remember the correct terminology for the "end-mill bits" when I'm hunting for them, which lead to a lot of the sales-staff at hardware stores giving me that "you don't know WTF you're talking about, dipstick, here's what you want/need — a countersink-bit."
Then we both walk away from each other rolling our eyes...

Hard to describe what you want/need to someone when they've already made up his/her mind about what you want/mean.

 

[vigilante398]

"End-Mill Bits" are what I look for when counterboring.

In my experience, they are not easy to find because
A) They're scarce
B) Sales-people think I'm asking for a counter-sink bit — which I DON'T WANT.

I can never remember the correct terminology for the "end-mill bits" when I'm hunting for them, which lead to a lot of the sales-staff at hardware stores giving me that "you don't know WTF you're talking about, dipstick, here's what you want/need — a countersink-bit."
Then we both walk away from each other rolling our eyes...

Hard to describe what you want/need to someone when they've already made up his/her mind about what you want/mean.

Flat end-mill should do it. That's what I use on the CNC for all of my milling, and if I were counterboring I would certainly make use of the CNC to make it easier. But a flat end-mill big enough to counterbore a pot shaft hole would have to be what, 12mm? That's pretty big.

 

[Paradox916]

Chiloskit 5pcs M3-M8 Pilot Slotting Counterbore Mould End Mill Cutter Solid Slot Countersink End Mill Drill Bit https://a.co/d/2TpFaBv

Chuck it up in a drill and call it a day. That might work.

 

[music6000]

Flat end-mill should do it. That's what I use on the CNC for all of my milling, and if I were counterboring I would certainly make use of the CNC to make it easier. But a flat end-mill big enough to counterbore a pot shaft hole would have to be what, 12mm? That's pretty big.

Back in the day Alfonso Hermida use to flat end mill the New Sensor China letters from inside the 1590B enclosures that housed all the different models.:

 

[Feral Feline]

Flat end-mill should do it. That's what I use on the CNC for all of my milling, and if I were counterboring I would certainly make use of the CNC to make it easier. But a flat end-mill big enough to counterbore a pot shaft hole would have to be what, 12mm? That's pretty big.

Yes, but is that a problem? The shaft-hole is already drilled.


Pity the bits Paradox916 posted only go up to M8.



BTW, full-disclosure, I still don't have any flat end-mill bits...
Just as well. It would mean a whole new way for me to bork my enclosure-drilling...

 

[vigilante398]

Yes, but is that a problem? The shaft-hole is already drilled.


Pity the bits Paradox916 posted only go up to M8.

Not really a problem assuming you have a drill with a collet big enough to handle 12mm.

If you look at the dimensions of the bits @Paradox916 posted though the M6 one has an 11mm blade diameter and the M8 has a 14mm blade diameter. Those would certainly do the trick.

I misplaced my calipers so I still haven't measured the walls of this enclosure I have on hand. Next week I'll be less stressed and have more free time, I'll try to get stuff done. My band's EP just dropped today and we're playing a release party tomorrow, so naturally my guitarist's rig died. The venue has a backline amp so he can use that, but he uses a Victory V4 preamp for most of his tones and it's on the fritz right now, so I'm building him a Black Eye to use in its place.

So if you're in the Chicago area (*cough* @jhaneyzz and @Gordo *cough*) I'm going to be playing Montrose Saloon in Chicago saturday night, doors at 6:30, first band at 7:00, we go on at 9:00.

 

[zgrav]

No time pressure on that build, right? But great for your guitarist to even have that backup as an option. Congratulations on releasing the EP and I hope your release party is amazing!