What’s on *YOUR* workbench?

andare said:
I wired up my friend's Tele with the 4-way switch and I was surprised by what I heard.

Position 2 (both pickups in parallel) is skewed towards the neck pickup, same volume as single pickups. Darker than a normal Tele.
Position 4 (both PUs in series) actually sounds like position 2 in a normal Tele but louder.

So I checked my wiring, solder joints, grounding, continuity. I also looked at how the switch works to make sure it was actually doing its job. All good.

I did some reading and apparently pickup order affects the series position. Bridge first (my case) sounds brighter, neck first muddier - what I would expect.
Does that make sense to you?

On a good note, the Pinecil does work on the back of pots but I have to use the knife tip and the boost function - besides running hotter, it gives the iron more power.
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I had no idea that was a thing! I wonder what the physics behind it are?
 
Scheming yet another slightly modified MadBean WaveLord:

nSXGE6H.jpg


..totally missed that rotary switch hole 🙃
 
Fama said:
The guy who fixed my Solar told me to use a tension calculator website (I think he had an excel set up), and go by tension. So put in the notes you want, the scale of the guitar and select the string thicknesses that give you a reasonable tension. It's a bit tricky since I think it varies a little by string brand, but I think it should get you in the ballpark.
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I know I keep pimping on here, but I've been very happy with them...
Stringjoy have a tension calculator and build custom sets for the same price as stock sets.
When I was setting up my first bari, I ordered 3 sets. A tensioned set that was almost the stock heavy, then a step lighter and a step heavier.
Put the middle set on and I think I used 1 string out of each of the other packs and I was happy. Beats buying several sets from several brands. And. If I order before 5, I get them next day at noon vs 10pm with bezoforest(SJ and I are both in Nashville).
 
giovanni said:
I had no idea that was a thing! I wonder what the physics behind it are?
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I actually don't know if it's a thing, I just read about it on forums. Can't fiddle with the wiring to find out. Wiring it neck first requires rerouting the ground wire for the bridge pickup - it's tied to the shielding under the bridge.

In my mind, there should be no difference but I know pickups are not resistors.
 
andare said:
I actually don't know if it's a thing, I just read about it on forums. Can't fiddle with the wiring to find out. Wiring it neck first requires rerouting the ground wire for the bridge pickup - it's tied to the shielding under the bridge.

In my mind, there should be no difference but I know pickups are not resistors.
Click to expand...
I suppose the capacitance and inductance of the first pickup interplaying with the 2nd and it's resistance to ground could alter the voicing some. It would hard(for me, at least) to measure or calculate how the change in order would make a difference as the variable of the strings vibration would be hard to replicate in order to get repeatable results to do frequency analysis or null tests.
 
Not on the bench, but the tailgate.
Bought as "hasn't run in 7 years and little dog ate the seat and steering wheel"
No vermin damage, tires seemed to hold air, compression was good so gave it a go
Drained the fluids, new carb, air and fuel filter, spark plug, ignition, steering wheel. Lopped off the broken choke cable and just used the lever on the carb.
Runs like a top. Kids have been having a blast. About $280 all in. Just not sure what to do with the seat.
Oh, and the $9 ignition is wired backwards so off is on and on is off. Hopefully I can find my pin puller and flip those around. For to find replacement outside belts. Guessing they drug the ground to death. But a 4 out of 5 point harness ain't bad.
 

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