New (to me) Tayda Option…

One dude's anecdotal experience:

it's definitely super clean inside (minus that super sharpie I can get rid of with isopropyl).

I had a bit of under-applied powder coat on one (as if it hit the tape during application), and some (light) drip into the threaded holes. Nothing that wasn't fixed by running the screws in and out with a small impact driver.
 
jessenator said:
One dude's anecdotal experience:

it's definitely super clean inside (minus that super sharpie I can get rid of with isopropyl).

I had a bit of under-applied powder coat on one (as if it hit the tape during application), and some (light) drip into the threaded holes. Nothing that wasn't fixed by running the screws in and out with a small impact driver.
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Still preferable to the full dip they do normally…
 
Why did you want to sand the paint off the inside previously? I'm not judging or anything, I'm genuinely curious.
 
Fizz said:
I've never scraped anything and I've never had a problem with mine.
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FWIW I forgot to scrape the powder coat out of the holes once and ended up with a clear grounding issue - it was humming when I put my hand near the pedal (not even touching it), and clearing the holes of powder coat fixed that issue completely.
 
Fama said:
FWIW I forgot to scrape the powder coat out of the holes once and ended up with a clear grounding issue - it was humming when I put my hand near the pedal (not even touching it), and clearing the holes of powder coat fixed that issue completely.
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Maybe I need to start doing it.. You all just scrap away the paint on the inside of the hole or on both the inside and underside? By inside I mean the sides (area) that was drilled out.. not the top (that is painted) or underside where the PCB goes... if that makes sense.
 
Fizz said:
Maybe I need to start doing it.. You all just scrap away the paint on the inside of the hole or on both the inside and underside? By inside I mean the sides (area) that was drilled out.. not the top (that is painted) or underside where the PCB goes... if that makes sense.
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I've only done the inner walls of the hole itself (if that makes sense). Stick knife in hole (carefully to not hit powder coat, obviously), scrape the perimeter.

I assume inside would also work, the only point is that some part of the jack makes a reliable connection.

I guess technically only clearing the inner walls might not be reliable since it could be possible to have the jack be positioned perfectly in the middle of the hole, not touching any walls, in which case clearing inside the enclosure instead like KR Sound showed would be better, but in practice I've never had that happen.
 
Fama said:
I've only done the inner walls of the hole itself (if that makes sense). Stick knife in hole (carefully to not hit powder coat, obviously), scrape the perimeter.

I assume inside would also work, the only point is that some part of the jack makes a reliable connection.

I guess technically only clearing the inner walls might not be reliable since it could be possible to have the jack be positioned perfectly in the middle of the hole, not touching any walls, in which case clearing inside the enclosure instead like KR Sound showed would be better, but in practice I've never had that happen.
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I know my Face Melter sounded quiet on my Protoboard but after I got it boxed it was noisy.. thinking now it might have been this issue but never knew of this issue before.
 
Coda said:
www.taydaelectronics.com

ENCLOSURE MASKING SERVICE

Tayda Electronics - Get It Fast - Same Day Shipping
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I had stopped ordering painted enclosures from Tayda because I scratched too many trying to sand the paint off of the inside. This is kind of a game changer for me…
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Anybody got a picture of what this looks when you receive it?
 
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