What’s on *YOUR* workbench?
- Thread starter Bricksnbeatles
- Start date
KR Sound
Well-known member
Got the Silvertone working. Now I’m replacing a tube socket that was the main issue and rewiring the speaker. Had to drill out the rivets- easy since they’re brads- and enlarge the hole just a tad. I replaced the power cable with a 3-prong and cleaned up the pots and other sockets.
KR Sound
Well-known member
steviejr92
Authorized Vendor
Ever since you showed me those videos. I have created a 3 piece core mold for the enclosure. I also designed an alignment plate similar to the YouTube video. I’m 3d printing the alignment pins and all should be done.
temol
Well-known member
I don't know how much casting of the enclosures can be compared to toy car bodies, but I suspect there are many similarities. And it looks more complicated than I thought. Lots of potential problems. It takes a lot of time to perfect the technique.
steviejr92
Authorized Vendor
It was a really helpful video! Casting anything with a negative space is hard but I think the making the core with a mold is the way to go. I think the thickness of these enclosure should help. I haven’t had any cold shuts.
JasonWickersham
Well-known member
Daddy’s day sale items arrived.
BiPhase, Filter/Sample Hold, Octron III x2 (don’t click order while smoking the jazz cabbage,) some Fuzz Captain and an MI Audio crunch box, Magnetron delay.
Started populating 10 and 100k resistors tonight.
Picked up a steel ruler with metric ticks. Easier to validate my own layouts, and confirmed spacing on the LED/Bypass breakout board.
Crapload of other orders inbound too: large SBP order, some transistors from antique electronic supply, mouser order, and Friday, placing order from Aion for 2x sapphire, 2x Rat, and a brown source.
I have plans…
BiPhase, Filter/Sample Hold, Octron III x2 (don’t click order while smoking the jazz cabbage,) some Fuzz Captain and an MI Audio crunch box, Magnetron delay.
Started populating 10 and 100k resistors tonight.
Picked up a steel ruler with metric ticks. Easier to validate my own layouts, and confirmed spacing on the LED/Bypass breakout board.
Crapload of other orders inbound too: large SBP order, some transistors from antique electronic supply, mouser order, and Friday, placing order from Aion for 2x sapphire, 2x Rat, and a brown source.
I have plans…
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almondcity
Well-known member
Passinwind
Well-known member
Added a 3 way switch for the formerly fixed frequency high pass filter in this EQ box, something like 5 string bass/synth, 4 string bass, guitar.
Right at the moment.. a hack-it-together 12V Tube distortion pedal. It sounds surprisingly good as a clean overdrive although it doesn't have enough gain with a single section of a BH12A-STR (other side is the CF output buffer). It's made from Merlin's (Valve Wizard) schematic, but I've since added a second tube to provide two more gain stages but it needs a little taming:
Schematic was fig 9 taken from here: http://www.valvewizard.co.uk/Triodes_at_low_voltages_Blencowe.pdf
I'm also working out chorus and delay projects.
Schematic was fig 9 taken from here: http://www.valvewizard.co.uk/Triodes_at_low_voltages_Blencowe.pdf
I'm also working out chorus and delay projects.
andare
Well-known member
When I installed the pickup, pot and jack I forgot that the strings would have to be grounded. So now I got this tailpiece that I can ground.
First of all because the two parts attach at a slight angle, I have to install it off-center.
Then my concern is that the break angle will be almost zero.
And the string spacing is narrower than the saddle. I have another saddle so I guess I'll have to add notches to that one. Jeez, so much work.
Any tips before I F this up?
First of all because the two parts attach at a slight angle, I have to install it off-center.
Then my concern is that the break angle will be almost zero.
And the string spacing is narrower than the saddle. I have another saddle so I guess I'll have to add notches to that one. Jeez, so much work.
Any tips before I F this up?
gonzo
Well-known member
I usually just run wiring up through a pin hole and just loop it between the strings behind the saddle.
andare
Well-known member
I was looking for a more permanent solution. Do you have pics of your solution?
andare
Well-known member
I found this thing that Mason Stoops has on this rubber bridge guitar. Looks exactly like what I need. No idea what it is and how to find it,
Alternatively, a toploader Tele Bridge so I can just leave the saddles out. It would have to be a short bridge though, no pickup plate.
andare
Well-known member
There's a preamp and a strap jack already. i want to use the new pickup.
The tailpiece doesn't go to the strap jack, I need to drill 3 holes to mount it plus one for the ground wire.
MichaelW
Well-known member
That's not mirror, it's a pickguard of a dude in khaki's sitting down.......
MichaelW
Well-known member
mantis shrimp?
Maybe ground a mounting screw, get good metal to metal contact(remove chrome etc from the tailpiece screw holes). Hopefully there's enough metal to metal contact between the strings and the tailpiece and the tailpiece isn't insulated via any coating
Easy enough to check resistance with a spare string