Cybercow
Well-known member
Nice 'n' tight layout. What is it? More details? Schematic? (Curious)
What’s on *YOUR* workbench?
- Thread starter Bricksnbeatles
- Start date
PunchySunshine
Well-known member
Ya gotta remember not everyone is a wizard like us!
jimilee
Well-known member
What could possibly go wrong?
Alan W
Well-known member
Either today or tomorrow I'll be dis-assembling the Thin-line Tele Baritone I assembled in 2020, to convert it into a twelve string. I'm having a harder time getting started than I was expecting to— I really do love it as a Baritone, but now have a new one that makes it superfluous, and, just in case I miss it too much, I'm keeping the neck and pickguard. But I am really looking forward to the 12 string. I have a jumbo acoustic 12 string, but rarely play it.
Overall, it's not that much work (talking about assembling the new 12 string). Mainly making a few body changes to mount the bridge, and also cutting PU holes for the new pickguard. I figured I'd start photo-documenting those steps to post. The other main work, getting the new neck ready (it won't be in for another few weeks most likely, so I'll have a better understanding of how much fretwork is needed when it does come in—but everything I've read has led me to believe that Musikraft (GOD! The f'ing spell checker really wants me to type muskrat!) necks are at least on par with Warmoth, whose necks have only required minimal spot leveling, and the fret end dressing is more a matter of me being too finicky anyway) has been so beautifully documented by @MichaelW.
Rest in pieces, old Baritone!
(It's a vertical photo, but the insert keeps rotating it. )
Overall, it's not that much work (talking about assembling the new 12 string). Mainly making a few body changes to mount the bridge, and also cutting PU holes for the new pickguard. I figured I'd start photo-documenting those steps to post. The other main work, getting the new neck ready (it won't be in for another few weeks most likely, so I'll have a better understanding of how much fretwork is needed when it does come in—but everything I've read has led me to believe that Musikraft (GOD! The f'ing spell checker really wants me to type muskrat!) necks are at least on par with Warmoth, whose necks have only required minimal spot leveling, and the fret end dressing is more a matter of me being too finicky anyway) has been so beautifully documented by @MichaelW.
Rest in pieces, old Baritone!
(It's a vertical photo, but the insert keeps rotating it. )
RobotZombie23
Member
I'm making a faceplate with my CNC laser setup. I got the CNC to do wood working stuff but found a way to use it for this. I just realized a couple days ago I can probably make PCBs with it using the router instead of the laser
I think they look good. They're all PedalPCB except two. Bonus if you can figure out what board they are
I think they look good. They're all PedalPCB except two. Bonus if you can figure out what board they are
Last edited:
Audandash
Well-known member
Is that Pickguard material on something else? I never thought about doing this but that’s a great idea. I have access to a laser but we use it to cut fiber bobbins for pickups.
Feral Feline
Well-known member
Thanks! All will be revealed soon(ish).
Your board is the first FULLY-DIY board I've ever seen — 'cause no board should be without a tuner.
Looks awesome, love the "Chicken In The Cave" and "Snake Jazz"!
Ya gotta put your Puzzle-Piece logo on that Q-Tune!
RobotZombie23's "board" is killer, even without a tuner. Gotta hook'm all up!
RobotZombie23
Member
I think pickguard material is usually 3ply. This is 2ply sign plastic I found on Amazon
once I'm out of that I've been looking at other plastics to use and use reverse etching:
IPI Ultra Thins .004” Engraving Plastic | JPPlus
IPI’s Laser Ultra Thins two-ply sheets are flexible and extremely durable, offering heat, solvent, and abrasion resistance. At only .004” thick, Ultra Thins can easily accommodate curved surfaces.
www.jpplus.com
B.F. Plastics, Inc.
Audandash
Well-known member
Sweet. Yeah we don’t usually cut plastic because of the fumes. We are rednecks and normally don’t care to much but that’s crazy toxic and we don’t have the ventilation set up properly.I think pickguard material is usually 3ply. This is 2ply sign plastic I found on Amazon
once I'm out of that I've been looking at other plastics to use and use reverse etching:
IPI Ultra Thins .004” Engraving Plastic | JPPlus
IPI’s Laser Ultra Thins two-ply sheets are flexible and extremely durable, offering heat, solvent, and abrasion resistance. At only .004” thick, Ultra Thins can easily accommodate curved surfaces.B.F. Plastics, Inc.
www.bfplasticsinc.com
Audandash
Well-known member
Thanks. I am planning on making a box for the q-tune. I have a few other priorities first chicken of the reverb is just a quick brick reverb design I did (name from Anchorman 2) and snake jazz (Rick and Morty) is my take on the smallThanks! All will be revealed soon(ish).
Your board is the first FULLY-DIY board I've ever seen — 'cause no board should be without a tuner.
Looks awesome, love the "Chicken In The Cave" and "Snake Jazz"!
Ya gotta put your Puzzle-Piece logo on that Q-Tune!
RobotZombie23's "board" is killer, even without a tuner. Gotta hook'm all up!
giovanni
Well-known member
Wait the faceplates are CNCd not lasered? They look really crisp! Awesome work.
giovanni
Well-known member
I have been using the Rowmark LaserMax or LaserMax for my faceplates. Really nice materials!I think pickguard material is usually 3ply. This is 2ply sign plastic I found on Amazon
once I'm out of that I've been looking at other plastics to use and use reverse etching:
IPI Ultra Thins .004” Engraving Plastic | JPPlus
IPI’s Laser Ultra Thins two-ply sheets are flexible and extremely durable, offering heat, solvent, and abrasion resistance. At only .004” thick, Ultra Thins can easily accommodate curved surfaces.B.F. Plastics, Inc.
RobotZombie23
Member
Thank You!
The labels are first etched then cut with the laser on the CNC. Different settings for cutting and etching
giovanni
Well-known member
Why do you need the laser after etching?
Stickman393
Well-known member
Working out a multi-germ tester for the RG keen method.
Main reason I ain't looking at a peak atlas: I don't trust the instantaneous measurements those things take.
So, this.
The idea is to be able to let 5 transistors settle into their quiescent state at a time. Power this fucker up, throw 9vdc across the emitter terminals and an 2.472k ohm series load on each collector, and have multiple switches to add a little current into each individual base. A 2 pole rotary switch will allow me to select which of each of the 5 transistors are displayed on the built-in volt meter, and I'll use a 4pdt to switch between NPN and PNP.
Got a lot of Ges to measure up.
Helix, Part 2. After getting this thing back together I realized I didn't pull the protective film off of the 12 displays. My initial thought (the lazy side) was "I can live with it". Reality kicked in and I'd never sleep again until it was corrected so the whole thing came apart again...
This is the backside of the board with all of the switches and displays.
Those are the tabs of the protective film. Like a worm in my brain it would have slowly eaten away at me...
This thing sounds SO good. Until I try to use it live.
It's a bitch to clean too
This is the backside of the board with all of the switches and displays.
Those are the tabs of the protective film. Like a worm in my brain it would have slowly eaten away at me...
This thing sounds SO good. Until I try to use it live.
It's a bitch to clean too