What’s on *YOUR* workbench?

jwin615 said:
@FF
Determine which side is pin one.10k resistor from all other pins to pin 1. I would solder them standing up, unsoldered lead to the sky, then solder a piece of solid core to pin 1, bend it at 90 and bend the R leads over it at >90. Put a alligator clip on the wire near pin 1 as a heat sink, then solder the resistors.
Pin 1 likely goes to ground, vcc or vref(or v+/v-/ground)
View attachment 108366
I can't read your black text so sorry if I missed something.
Click to expand...

JWIN615 FOR THE WIN!

That would then match up with the pic I found online.

Indeed, I wanted to explore the far ends and see what else they connected to (gnd vcc vref as you noted).
Looking at other builds' gutshots, nothing on the part nor on the PCB (no square pad, all pads equally round) to indicate a direction as to how it should be inserted.

Might try and borrow the DMM I gave away, I'd feel more confident about finding which end is "up" if I could have beepy-flashy than just reading "000".

RE "black text" — hmm... I only changed colour to pinkish-purple on one word, "pink" in the sentence "See the PINK one, #3?". So I don't think you missed anything.


The graphic you posted helps my mind tremendously, thank you.
The PCB has 8 pins vs the graphic's 11, but it pretty much confirms what I thought, that one end has to be the "common".

I'll get to this again later today.


Merci beaucoup!
 
Feral Feline said:
JWIN615 FOR THE WIN!

That would then match up with the pic I found online.

Indeed, I wanted to explore the far ends and see what else they connected to (gnd vcc vref as you noted).
Looking at other builds' gutshots, nothing on the part nor on the PCB (no square pad, all pads equally round) to indicate a direction as to how it should be inserted.

Might try and borrow the DMM I gave away, I'd feel more confident about finding which end is "up" if I could have beepy-flashy than just reading "000".

RE "black text" — hmm... I only changed colour to pinkish-purple on one word, "pink" in the sentence "See the PINK one, #3?". So I don't think you missed anything.


The graphic you posted helps my mind tremendously, thank you.
The PCB has 8 pins vs the graphic's 11, but it pretty much confirms what I thought, that one end has to be the "common".

I'll get to this again later today.


Merci beaucoup!
Click to expand...
Look at the schem. Each of the component with a trace going there should have a node with a resistor.
Note, that 15n may show a 5k connected on the schem instead of 10k in parallel.
I'm going to guess the pin on the right in your photo is pin 1 and this is part of a filter network on the output (out2) of the pt2399?
 
jwin615 said:
Look at the schem. Each of the component with a trace going there should have a node with a resistor.
Note, that 15n may show a 5k connected on the schem instead of 10k in parallel.
I'm going to guess the pin on the right in your photo is pin 1 and this is part of a filter network on the output (out2) of the pt2399?
Click to expand...

Yeah, what I numbered pin 1 on the array connects to the 2n7 cap next to and connecting with the PT2399's pin-16:

Yodeler v1.png
Pin "8" of the array (*my labelling of it) does connect to **[PT2399's Pin 12]


Here's Jjimi's SPS Yodeler (and if I'm not mistaken, previously he's made the OG with side-jacks, too):

t4v2wTWl.jpg





☝️Looks like @jjjimi84 used a Bourns 4308M — I've been checking out some datasheets — so... which one?
The 102 on the left below or right side, the 101?



BOURNS 4300M ARRAYS.png






The reason I'm overthinking all this is I've got but the one VFE board. I know if I botch it, I can get the MadBean Wind Bag (same circuit), but honestly can't afford to go borking up the wrong resistor-tree at the moment.


I think you're right, though. PIN1 OF THE ARRAY HAS TO BE MY PIN8, connecting to the output.
I'm going to compare Madbean's schem against the VFE one, again...

Your help has been tremendously appreciated, Jwin615. 😻


PS, the 4308M 101 makes the most sense.
**PPS, saw I hadn't completed a sentence. PIN1 of the array (my "pin8") connects to the PT2399's pin12
 
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One more before the year ends: Effectslayouts SUNNβEAM.
20251228_155935.JPG
What a fucking nightmare. Barely avoided a couple of catastrophes with the tone stack switch barely fitting in with the DI out jack, and the DI daughterboard barely fitting on top of the main pedalboard, although I think some of the electro caps stick too high so I put a washer in between the bottom plate and the enclosure. The input jack also was too close to the corner "pillar", moved it slightly and it still sits crooked, but it's sturdy enough.

Then again, it works fine, fired right up and sounds good. I used an ON-ON-ON switch (accidentally, although I think it's the only black 4PDT on Tayda) for it, so I learned how to simulate the tone stack in LTspice to figure out which caps I would want from the bass and guitar side in the middle mode. Turns out I went with the "default" order of C14-16-17-18, so the middle mode is C14 and 17 from the guitar version, although of course it matters which end you start with. All three modes are definitely distinct with the middle one being sort of a compromise between the other two, as you would expect. But I don't think it's necessarily worth it to get an ON-ON-ON instead of ON-ON if you're wondering.
 
Fama said:
One more before the year ends: Effectslayouts SUNNβEAM.

What a fucking nightmare. Barely avoided a couple of catastrophes with the tone stack switch barely fitting in with the DI out jack, and the DI daughterboard barely fitting on top of the main pedalboard, although I think some of the electro caps stick too high so I put a washer in between the bottom plate and the enclosure. The input jack also was too close to the corner "pillar", moved it slightly and it still sits crooked, but it's sturdy enough.

Then again, it works fine, fired right up and sounds good. I used an ON-ON-ON switch (accidentally, although I think it's the only black 4PDT on Tayda) for it, so I learned how to simulate the tone stack in LTspice to figure out which caps I would want from the bass and guitar side in the middle mode. Turns out I went with the "default" order of C14-16-17-18, so the middle mode is C14 and 17 from the guitar version, although of course it matters which end you start with. All three modes are definitely distinct with the middle one being sort of a compromise between the other two, as you would expect. But I don't think it's necessarily worth it to get an ON-ON-ON instead of ON-ON if you're wondering.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the cap details. Have a pair of these near the top of the stack.
So, how's it sound?
 
jwin615 said:
Thanks for the cap details. Have a pair of these near the top of the stack.
So, how's it sound?
Click to expand...
Well, the fairest way to portray it is a raw demo:

Sunnbeam demo

First is guitar tonestack, then hybrid, and finally bass tonestack.
on.soundcloud.com on.soundcloud.com

Just the Sunnbeam into an IR (which has a lowpass of 8kHz) and a touch of room reverb.

Tbh I prefer it running into an amp model, and for chuggy metal I think you probably want at least a TS or similar to tighten the palm mutes up, but maybe that gives you some indication. Gain is almost dimed here, but it cleans up quite nicely (beginning is with coil tap on the neck pickup). EQ was set with the guitar tonestack for both guitar and hybrid modes, I turned down the mids for the bass mode since it was way too boxy otherwise.

(small disclaimer, I'm not 100% sure which one is which, I assume I've got them the right way around based on how I think the switch works and how the bass mode has a mid peak around 400Hz which is boxy territory - guitar is around 700-800Hz and hybrid around 550Hz or so, but not 100% sure)
 
View attachment Wve Shp.mov

Modulation experiments continue.
I've spent a few weeks working on a microcontroller LFO using the ATTINY1616 and it's going really well. The IC has a built-in DAC, so the output is analog, not PWM. This should be a good fit for controlling VCA chips like the SSI2164. The built-in DAC is only 8 bits, but I've got a 12-bit MCP4725 IC board from Adafruit incoming to pair with the Attiny1616.

The onboard DAC is more than enough for optocouplers, so for that all you need is the attiny, a 5V regulator and a couple pots!

Here's a little video showing a control I added to smoothly morph the wave shape from triangle to sine.
 
I took a break from socials (and building) for Christmas, but am back at since Sunday. I finished up a couple of 2nd copies (Pedal PCB Circulator (EQD Grand Orbiter) and Muffinator Fuzz (selectable diode Big Muffin Pi / Violet Rams Head build) with Red LED/Si at 1st stage and Si/Ge at 2nd stage. I have demo cases for the Muffinator Fuzz and Ciculator, so I put these together so they can get some testing time.

Today I built my first board with analog BBD's, the Cepheid Chorus version of the Boss CE-2.

This is built up using the CoolAudio V3207D and V3101D BBD and clock. I didn't look for any notes on setting the trimmer, so I just moved it to find the ends of the range where no sound was passed and set it to the midpoint. Maybe that's not the place I want to be, but it definitely works. The sound is nice and clean, and this is another pedal that will have a place on my synths.

And I am not down to just 15 unbuilt PCBs. I expect I can get down to less than a dozen in the next couple of days, as we are shut down for the holidays at work. It just depends on how many components I hit that aren't in my stock.

IMG_9042.jpeg
 
jessenator said:
Probably not enough room, but could you parallel some higher rated ones?
Click to expand...
ended up finding some on Amazon for a decent price so I should have the correct value on the way.... Most of the caps measured way under what they were supposed to... on of the 22uf caps was a dead short and the 15000UF I couldn't measure.. Nothing I have goes that high to measure the original or new cap to see if the tolerance is right.
 
Got a call today from a friend and he asked about me building a pedal for a kid that’s 13 and battling cancer. His buddy said the kid has just started playing guitar recently…. Going to build out a seabed delay for him and I’m giving him a little fender practice amp I have too..
IMG_8941.jpeg
 
So while I await some bits in the mail to proceed with the VCA experiments, I popped together an optical harmonic tremolo on the breadboard with my Attiny LFO and it's sounding pretty good. I used all the tricks I know to linearize the sweep as much as possible, and I'm using NSL32-SR3 vactrols.

 
Feral Feline said:
...
I think you're right, though. PIN1 OF THE ARRAY HAS TO BE MY PIN8, connecting to the output.
...
Click to expand...

Ackchewahllee... the PCB diagram from VFE shows that I've numbered it correctly, 1 through 8 from left to right.
Doesn't matter which way the pins are numbered, matters which way they function.

The Bourns 4308M 101 array has 7 resistors (8 pins).
Madbean's schematic shows a total of 7 resistors, perfect!

Or is it?

On my VFE board, aside from the array, there are 2 x 10k resistors on the board. Add the 7-resistor array = 9 x 10k.

The Bourns 4308M 102 arrays, as per a previous post of mine, have 8 pins, but only 4 resistors.

The VFE board has 2 x 10k independent resistors aside from the array, add the 4308M 102 array and that's 6 x 10k.

Yet the MBP Wind Bag schematic shows 7 x 10k resistors.


One of the problems I had was I was looking at the V1 VFE schematic. I'm now looking at the proper SPS schematic... but it's the same —
2x 10k independents + array.

So, I'm back where I left off a couple days ago — WHICH ARRAY? 101 (7x10k) or 102 (4x10k)?


I know my math sucks, but IT DOESN'T ADD UP!

I'll solder up the 7 first, socket the array and see. Shouldn't blow up anything, but I really didn't want to use sockets on this build apart from the PT2399. Shocking I know, lover of sockets that I am.

Alas, right now I have to go babysit my older brother. :rolleyes:


Maybe I should've started my own discussion thread instead of spamming the Your Workbench thread, but ...


 
Feral Feline said:
Maybe I should've started my own discussion thread instead of spamming the Your Workbench
Click to expand...
Nah, keep up the rambling! (But, its own thread would help others….)

Anyways, I have tested this Marigold Fuzz (after blowing up a fuzz aldrin and FV-1 board: my soldering iron works but seems to be moody). This thing, straight into a plain power amp, sounds like it wants to punch something. It sits right between the Fuzz Face and Big Muff. I’ll get a box for it soon. Debating 1590B or 125B…
Dang Tonebender, didn’t know you were that awesome.
IMG_1576.jpeg
 
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