Acid Etch Transfer Help

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People who use transfer paper with laser printers: Please help!

I cannot figure out what i'm doing wrong here.

first of all, im using blue press n peel paper from ebay:
1783450246031.png
My first two pedals came out fine, it took 2 or 3 attempts each but had 2-3 pretty large blobs where it didnt stick. aside from that, they were fine. for these, i used a cheap iron i got from amazon which had a relatively flat plate but all of them have a 30 second shutoff, so i couldnt set it down flat for any real amount of time, i had to immediately and constantly slide the iron around and hope not to smear anything. I could never get it perfect but the results were actually better than what im getting ever since
1st couple:
1783450465287.png , 1783450483673.png 1783451353472.png


after this I was trying to eliminate ANY blobs/little spots which the transfer did not stick to, so the first thing i did was to buy a heavier iron which i thought had a 10 minute auto shutoff since I couldnt find one without. it turns out, that was only when it was sitting in a vertical position, and it still had a 30 second shutoff when placed face down. this pedal wasn't any better and actually had worse results:
1783451381343.png 1783451395754.png 1783451405063.png
(and it turns out that caustic soda eats right through sharpie marker and posca paint marker, but using an exacto knife to clean up missing white parts post-transfer does work relatively well)

so this morning i got my Heating Plate. I first tried setting it to 275 degrees, taping the transfer on two sides (either top and bottom or left and right) with Kapton heat resistant tape, placing it down on the transfer for 15 seconds, removing it, flattening the transfer paper with another pedal enclosure or a flat piece of wood, then sitting the heating plate back on it for about 90 seconds while applying force. next i tried just setting it to 355 degrees and placing it down on the transfer for 110 seconds without moving it at all, and applying some downward force while holding it completely still. this produced worse results than the first iron i had. the one with paper towel next to it was when i attempted to lay a folded paper towel flat over the pedal and under the heating plate to make it more even as suggested by some online. that seemed to make it worse in the center probably:

1783451755626.png 1783451764396.png 1783451785677.png 1783451794682.png
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i put the heat resistant pad that came with the heating plate under the pedal, but for some attempts, i tried using a wooden block like i used to with the old iron. couldn't tell which method is better there. the heating plate has the ability to set an exact temperature and even has a timer. and it doesn't have a terrible auto shutoff feature. it can go 13 minutes without shutting off. it also allegedly distributes the temperature across the entire ceramic heating plate evenly. but it is $100. so the fact that it didn't work much better is disappointing

even with waiting for it to cool before carefully peeling, or even once trying to dump cold water on it immediately, the center came off completely (the Grind pedal design was where i tried that). and on these last attempts, I used two different pedal enclosures.

for the record , i sand very hard, maybe too hard. i know shiny is suggested, so i used to go from 230 to 400 grit to sometimes even 1000 or 1500, but now I'm going only to 400 grit then stopping because apparently super shiny mirror finish isn't great for sticking transfer. i also use water to rinse it off after sanding, sometimes a little wet sanding, then acetone, wipe it down, sometimes a steel wool wipe, then rinse with water again. i am very careful not to touch the top at all after cleaning. all of these attempts shown in this post have been very well sanded, acetone scrubbed, cleaned, and not touched with fingers after cleaning

one thing i haven't tried is pre-heating the enclosure but that seems tough. maybe worth a shot though.

I would really like to hear what your process is, which heating element you use, how long, do you move it or leave it still, which paper do you use, etc.

What i really want to narrow down is:
1. is the best method, to lay the iron at its highest temp down on the transfer paper for a few minutes, then lift it and start running it across the transfer for like 5 more minutes? because thats the general advice, but i think blue transfer paper is only supposed to take like a minute or two at 350 degrees
2. does more heat for longer make it worse and potentially smudge?
3. do i just need to leave the heating plate on longer? the max time ive had this heating plate on these is just under 2 minutes, stationary, never moving. maybe i should kind of run it across the pedal to smooth it out after a little while of sitting stationary
4. whats the best heating tool for this
5. whats the best paper
6. how do you sand your pedals pre-transfer
7. is there a better type of paper to be using with laser printers for this purpose
 
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I haven't etched any full enclosures, but I've etched a lot of little name plates.

I had a big batch of failures this year that I attributed to not pre-cleaning enough.

After I stripped them all with naptha and scotch-brite I had much better results.
 
you think that's better than acetone? sorry, still workin on my post, i accidentally submitted it immediately after staring to write it

thats another thing, sanding. so ive been going from about 230, to 400 grit, then even up to 1000 and 1500. but i learned it shouldnt go that high and shouldnt be a shiny mirror finish. it should have something to grip. so i started only going to 400 grit. then i wash with water, then acetone and i scrub, and sometimes even use steel wool, but not often. then water again and wipe of violently with paper towel
 
Try sanding your enclosures flat if you're missing stuff in the middle. A lot of them have a bow to them.
Clean hands or latex gloves and clean enclosures are a must. Don't handle the PnP with bare hands and clean the enclosure well.
Dust/debris between the transfer and the enclosure will also cause problems. Try a final cleaning with microfiber or other lint free rag. Avoid cheap paper towels.
 
Try sanding your enclosures flat if you're missing stuff in the middle. A lot of them have a bow to them.
Clean hands or latex gloves and clean enclosures are a must. Don't handle the PnP with bare hands and clean the enclosure well.
Dust/debris between the transfer and the enclosure will also cause problems. Try a final cleaning with microfiber or other lint free rag. Avoid cheap paper towels.
i do this, yes. thanks for the suggestion though.

maybe the paper towels were a problem. I wouldn't say they're cheap, but i only used the microfiber cloth to dry one of them once so i could try using that more often. but i think theres a fundamental problem with getting the transfer to stick evenly

can you tell me your process, which heating element you use, how long, do you move it or leave it still, which paper do you use, etc?

*alright i finished up my initial post now
 
so hypothetically, if oils and uneven tops are the likely issue, would there be any other solution than sanding harder (should i use fine grit and make it shiny or leave it a little rough so it can catch/grip onto it?) and wearing gloves? do you think the heating plate is overkill or somehow worse than an iron? do you guys use japanese non-auto shutoff irons? or laminating machines?

should i be heating longer, should i be moving it around or holding it still? should i be using a different paper? i dont really want to use the stuff that i have to scrape pulp off of in water after transferring, if i can avoid it. this stuff seems probably higher quality than that, but you only get 5 pieces per order

should i be cleaning with something else? should i be putting weight on it while heating or not? should i be pre-heating? should i give up and try another method?

should i be trying to flatten the transfer paper after heating or even pre-heating? or is it better to not lift the heating element off the transfer paper at all until you're finished?

i cant imagine others are having this much trouble. and it wasnt that bad in the beginning. but i never got it perfect. and in trying to solve that issue, i've just overcomplicated and made it so much worse. such a disheartening waste of time and effort
 
I bet building pedals has provided you with the kind of skills that might be applied to taking apart an iron and over-riding whatever kind of movement sensor is in there.

For the flatness issue, I wonder if there's something you could put in between the iron and the enclosure that would transfer heat, but be soft enough to take up any wavyness in your top. Just googled "heat transfer pad" and came up with some relevant looking results, but I don't actually know if that's a good idea.
 
I bet building pedals has provided you with the kind of skills that might be applied to taking apart an iron and over-riding whatever kind of movement sensor is in there.

For the flatness issue, I wonder if there's something you could put in between the iron and the enclosure that would transfer heat, but be soft enough to take up any wavyness in your top. Just googled "heat transfer pad" and came up with some relevant looking results, but I don't actually know if that's a good idea.
i have considered this. yesterday i did find a model that doesn't have auto shutoff. its japanese but the plate looks pretty small. so i was skeptical. but would a better iron really be better than a heavier flatter heating plate with precise temperature and completely even temp distribution across the plate?
i cant really slide it around, so maybe the iron is best in that case.

either way, i'd like to narrow down: is the best method, to lay the iron at its highest temp down on the transfer paper for a few minutes, then lift it and start running it across the transfer for like 5 more minutes? because thats the general advice, but i think blue transfer paper is only supposed to take like a minute or two at 350 degrees

does more heat for longer make it worse and potentially smudge? maybe i just need to leave it on longer? the max time ive had this heating plate on these is just under 2 minutes, stationary, never moving. maybe i should kind of run it across the pedal to smooth it out after a little while of sitting still

BUT the first better attempts did use heat and a much longer duration. 5-10 or even 12 minutes, but that's with constant motion and constant periodic lifting to reset the auto shutoff trigger

by the way, I really appreciate all of your advice, Eric. thank you, both of you
 
im struggling to determine whether the issue is this flat heating plate isnt working because the pedal bows in the center no matter how much i sand, and if no amount of time or heat would change that

AND

if so, would constantly moving an iron be best? and if so, how long and should i leave it stationary at first before sliding it around at max heat in order to get a nice initial transfer that holds still while i slide the iron across afterward

and if the iron is the best option, why havent i been able to get better results from them before

initially, i was following the advice in this thread, and specifically the tumblr post linked within:
Calling all Etching Experts
it just never turned out perfect like his examples and i didnt know why. he uses different paper than me though. is my blue paper worse than this yellow stuff or the glossy photo paper everyone seems to use? i cant figure out which glossy paper is best, but it really seems like a worse process than this. although if it sticks better, i'd definitely try it. i just need to know which kind to buy:
 
I’ve etched a bunch of enclosures. What’s worked for me:

• Sand the enclosure flat. I do go for a mirror finish, fishing with 2000 or 3000 grit wet sanding

• Clean it. I use acetone.

• Get your prints nice and dark black. This will be specific to your particular graphics program and printer, so may take some trial and error. But you want some nice, dense toner on there.

• I could never get Press-n-Peel to work for me. So I always used glossy (thick) magazine paper, a little harder to come by these days but those incessant alumni magazines are good for something it turns out ;)

• My heat source is an old Black and Decker ‘travel iron’ (the handle folds down for convenient storage!) that I found at the thrift store. No auto shut off.
I put it on the highest setting, stationary with pressure for 1 minute, then moving around for another 3-4 minutes.

• I use this etchant: https://www.instructables.com/Stop-using-Ferric-Chloride-etchant!--A-better-etc/

This has generally given me consistent results over the years.

That said, there are still quirks and inconsistencies to this method.
Just recently I’ve been experimenting with Dry Film Photoresist, and getting good results. Planning to write up a little tutorial for that process, so stay tuned if you’re potentially interested in an alternative 👍
 
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I’ve etched a bunch of enclosures. What’s worked for me:

• Sand the enclosure flat. I do go for a mirror finish, fishing with 2000 or 3000 grit wet sanding

• Clean it. I use acetone.

• Get your prints nice and dark black. This will be specific to your particular graphics program and printer, so may take some trial and error. But you want some nice, dense toner on there.

• I could never get Press-n-Peel to work for me. So I always used glossy (thick) magazine paper, a little harder to come by these days but those incessant alumni magazines are good for something it turns out ;)

• My heat source is an old Black and Decker ‘travel iron’ (the handle folds down for convenient storage!) that I found at the thrift store. No auto shut off.
I put it on the highest setting, stationary with pressure for 1 minute, then moving around for another 3-4 minutes.

• I use this etchant: https://www.instructables.com/Stop-using-Ferric-Chloride-etchant!--A-better-etc/

This has generally given me consistent results over the years.

That said, there are still quirks and inconsistencies to this method.
Just recently I’ve been experimenting with Dry Film Photoresist, and getting good results. Planning to write up a little tutorial for that process, so stay tuned if you’re potentially interested in an alternative 👍
perfect, thank you. i guess i should try some magazine paper. i think i still have some old Vice Photo Issues around here somewhere. I suppose the Tape Op magazine style pages arent going to work?

this is great, extremely helpful. thank you. just bought this. just hoping the smudges on the plate arent flakes and wear. amazon has them but this arrives faster and i am becoming impatient. if i like it, i can order a new one from amazon later. doesnt have auto shutoff and i really like that it has no holes and entirely flat surface, no grooves or anything

1783456922164.png 1783456837552.png
 
I suppose the Tape Op magazine style pages arent going to work?
I have used that thin magazine paper once or twice. It can work. But it tends to get a little wave in it coming out of the printer, so you have to work against that, and it’s easier to tear it with the iron.
Thick stuff is definitely nicer. I still get the occasional unsolicited glossy catalog in the mail that has this kind of paper.

I periodically clean off bottom of my iron when it starts to look gunky. Wipe with acetone and/or a little scuff with fine sandpaper or 00 steel wool.
 
you're the man. just waiting on this iron to arrive and i'll test this process. ill probably still use caustic soda for the time being since ive got that down relatively well. but i want to focus on getting the transfer as good as possible at the moment anyway

i have noticed that toothpaste works really well for cleaning the iron plate
 
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