I've had 4 issues with pedals I've sold over the last few years:
one guy mentioned after sending it back he'd "accidentally" plugged in a 48v AC power supply.
one guy was adamant the wah I sent him was "noisy" despite me testing it at 4 different venues under a range of gear. After a lot of...
If it was to JUST buffer - absolutely. That's also what that MOSFET is doing right at the start.
I can guarantee there's a lot happening to the frequency response/harmonics from combining out of phase signals that go beyond just buffering though.
Honestly, it's not super important unless you're drawing a high proportion of the total device output - the difference in a few of the models I just compared was 1% voltage variation from 0-100% current draw for regulated vs 10% for unregulated (and the same from min to max input voltage). You...
If you've got voltage to spare (which you do), you can't beat a single Schottky diode for simplicity and minimal drop; 1N5819s cost nothing, drop minimal voltage and will withstand 40v continuous reversed all day.
IMO, reliant on a RC filter these days on the power rail isn't that useful for...
Op-amps get biased to roughly half the supply rail - so you want the voltage divider to have two equal(ish) resistors for R1/R2 so the middle of these will be ~4.5v.
I use them exclusively for the workshops I run for beginners.
A buck and a minute to solder is massively cheaper/easier than trying to get new solderers to cut/strip/tin/solder multiple cables :ROFLMAO:
https://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/FSN-22A-6?qs=FFbrrKMnJvzKmHD1yRFm1w%3D%3D
Flat stranded, Nomex or Teflon ribbon, specifically designed for movement.
Been using them for years with zero issues
The easiest way is (IMO) make things modular as well as bullet proof - separate the sections of the pedal that will see the most abose (jacks, switch, pot) into daughterboards and connect them to everything else with JST-XH's or ribbon cables.
If something breaks, swap them over in under a...
If you have 3D models attached to your PCB, export it as a .step file and import to your CAD program of choice. From there it's trivial to create a drill plan.
If you don't have 3D models attached, then your best bet is exporting it as a vector image into your vector software of choice and...