Recent content by drew.spriggs

I attempted to make a Woolly Mammoth 4-5x when I was much younger (15 or so years ago) and never got it to work. Last year I made a PCB for one and it worked perfectly the first time.

Sooo... I was poking around with my multimeter to check other voltage points while it was on and suddenly it started working. I've wiggles and moved every single component I was near and can't make it stop working. Maybe some sort of tiny short I couldn't see? No idea. With that being said, it...

Weirdly enough I have the exact same issues as this guy, just with wildly different voltages around the transistor - which leads me to believe there's definitely some fuckery around there. https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/isosceles-boost-issues-tiny-no-signal-when-engaged.5944/ He also notes...

All switches/knobs do something, but it just sounds incredibly misbiased - no sustain, super farty, etc. It does appear the tone controls are working, but it's really hard to hear with how little noise I get out of it. Confirmed all components are correct (couple of minor changes; pulldown is...

You can panelize with KiKit

Shouldn't be a problem - you should be able to set up an exclusion zone to remove it if you're really concerned though

Op-amps typically want to see a bipolar power supply - something like +/-9v (with reference to ground). Just using a 9v battery you only have a unipolar supply (+9v/0, or -9v/0 if you flip the battery), so by using a equal resistive divider you get +9/+4.5/0. If instead of the ground/zero...

Tell me about it :p It's cool for vibes, but absolutely isn't worth it either from a cost or time perspective.

Just cutting tracks? Easy. However the whole process is: cut tracks cut half through-holes cut positioning jig removing board, cutting rear tracks applying UV-cure solder mask to both sides removing solder mask from both faces cutting through-holes all the way through cutting board outline As...

There's barely an offboard connection there that doesn't look like it's got a short, and with that much damage to the PCB I would be shocked if you hadn't got multiple trace issues

NE5532 will easily drive most reverb tanks, and plenty of schematics out there for full send/return circuits with all controls included.

Create your two separate ground planes as nets (ie. I use GND and GNDD just to make life easy). Place a symbol called "Net Tie" on your schematic, and connect the ground to it on opposite sides. Attach a footprint to it - use any of the generic ones (just redesign it to suit once in PCB...

Going off datasheets, you can get away with 2mm if you skip the washer (which matches up to what I've done before with ply faceplates). 1mm doesn't leave a lot of room for a CNC engrave + paint fill, unless I'm using some sort of carrier to keep everything flat (and facing on the CNC again).

I've had an idea for finishing a Duocast enclosure off and I think the easiest way is going to be CNCing an aluminium plate (and filling the etching in with black paint). Has anybody done this, and if so what thickness/etc of aluminium did you use?

2mm aluminium is already very easy to drill - why would you need thinner than that?