Kliche Overdrive No Sound

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Ajonymous

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B12E1F9E-76CF-4D7D-AE9C-7BBF02FC6B34.jpeg 01A95D00-507F-4ED4-AC6F-AEE718560D03.jpeg Hi all. Purchased the Kliche Overdrive kit from stomp box parts over a month ago and assembled it, but there’s an issue. No sound has been coming out, whether the pedal is “on” or “off”. So far I’ve reflowed a few joints and tried to clean it up a bit. My soldering is far from pretty, and I’m still learning how to get good solder joints, so I suspect my issue may have to do with the solder. I can post some better photos if necessary and the voltages for the ICs. Don’t have those right off hand.
 
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Voltages would help. The centaur circuit is buffered bypass, so good to think about voltages when getting no sound in bypass.

Also a good habit to reflow all your solder joints when troubleshooting. (Take the ICs out first! Ask me how I know!).

A few questions:

Did you heat sink the Ge diodes when soldering?

When you tried the pedal, were you using battery or a power supply?

I see a healthy dose of solder on the 3pdt lugs - wondering if you inadvertently bridged something under the breakout board. Also looks like stranded wire between the 3pdt and breakout board - how much twisting and squishing has it undergone? I’ve had tricky problems in the past from using stranded wire hence my question.
 
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Laundryroom David said:
Voltages would help. The centaur circuit is buffered bypass, so good to think about voltages when getting no sound in bypass.

Also a good habit to reflow all your solder joints when troubleshooting. (Take the ICs out first! Ask me how I know!).

A few questions:

Did you heat sink the Ge diodes when soldering?

When you tried the pedal, were you using battery or a power supply?

I see a healthy dose of solder on the 3pdt lugs - wondering if you inadvertently bridged something under the breakout board. Also looks like stranded wire between the 3pdt and breakout board - how much twisting and squishing has it undergone? I’ve had tricky problems in the past from using stranded wire hence my question.
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I did not heat sink the GE diodes

I’ve tried it with both a battery and power supply in the past. Just tested again and the power supply does not work, while providing 9.2 volts. The battery also does not work while providing 8.9 volts.

I can check under the breakout board. May try even full on removing it.

As for the IC voltages, measured with the power supply and the ground being the ground of the DC Jack

1044SPCA
1: 9.21
2: 4.7
3: 0
4: -4.28
5: -8.71
6: 4.42
7: 3.99
8: 9.21

TL072 (Middle)
1: 4.71
2: 4.62
3: 4.55
4: -8.71
5: 4.56
6: 4.61
7: 4.52
8: 16.58

TL072 (Right)
1: 4.62
2: 4.62
3: 1.25
4: 0.00
5: 4.44
6: 4.61
7: 4.82
8: 9.21
 
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jesuscrisp said:
There's your problem and it also explains why there's no sound in either effect on or bypass. Try reflowing the parts around the first op amp stage, especially the op amp socket itself, R1, R2 and C1.
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I haven’t reflowed them just yet, but I verified all values for components prior to pin 3 are correct. I’ve also verified continuity between each component, which is the most confusing part for why it’s not working.
 
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You may want to make an audio probe. Solder a 100n cap lead to some spare wire and attach to the tip of the output jack (solder or alligator clip). The free lead is your probe. Test it on the output of each opamp
 
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BuddytheReow said:
You may want to make an audio probe. Solder a 100n cap lead to some spare wire and attach to the tip of the output jack (solder or alligator clip). The free lead is your probe. Test it on the output of each opamp
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Ha I actually just finished making one. Here's the only issue... my power supplies have suddenly stopped supplying 9v through the 9v 100ma outputs. It does supply 9v through the 9v 500ma outputs. The only issue with this is the 1044spca becomes burning hot, while the overall circuit feels hot. I've never run into anything like this before, and it is happening with three different dc power supplies. I'm honestly lost and at this point feel like this thing is shot.
 
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That doesn't sound like a power supply issue, that sounds like a short in the board that is letting current cook everything. I can't walk you through specifics, but here is what my process would be:
1. Visual inspection. Look at every joint to see if there is a unwanted connection (I once had a very thin wisp of solder bridged between two joints. it was almost invisible to my aging eyeballs)
2. After step 1, make a Visual inspection. Look at every joint to see if there is a unwanted connection
3. Look for bridge connections that may be hidden under footswitch boards and under IC sockets.
4. If visual inspection passes, a lot of people will move on to the audio probe. But I typically walk through the circuit with my ohm meter first, checking connections. In your case, where it seems like a short to ground, I'd check all connections that SHOULD be going to ground and all connections that SHOULD NOT be going to ground.
5. Audio probe.

I hope that helps.
 
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Dan M said:
That doesn't sound like a power supply issue, that sounds like a short in the board that is letting current cook everything. I can't walk you through specifics, but here is what my process would be:
1. Visual inspection. Look at every joint to see if there is a unwanted connection (I once had a very thin wisp of solder bridged between two joints. it was almost invisible to my aging eyeballs)
2. After step 1, make a Visual inspection. Look at every joint to see if there is a unwanted connection
3. Look for bridge connections that may be hidden under footswitch boards and under IC sockets.
4. If visual inspection passes, a lot of people will move on to the audio probe. But I typically walk through the circuit with my ohm meter first, checking connections. In your case, where it seems like a short to ground, I'd check all connections that SHOULD be going to ground and all connections that SHOULD NOT be going to ground.
5. Audio probe.

I hope that helps.
Click to expand...
I was almost certain step 3 would be visual inspection for unwanted connection :p, then if found nothing repeat from step 1. :ROFLMAO:

More seriously, I think you had in mind to look for cold solder joints.
 
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So......

The audio probe helped a lot. Found that audio wasn't even getting to the first resistor in the circuit. So here I found stupid issue one: the diagram on the website has the tip and ring backwards, at least for me. I don't have a TRS cable, so that probably changes the wiring for me. I think.

I followed the audio probe to the very end of the circuit but still wasn't getting any sound out. So here's stupid issue two: I didn't add enough solder on the output wire. Despite it looking ok, it still wasn't a good enough connection.

Thanks all for putting up with my stupidity.... Guess it takes failure and stupid issues to learn more.
 
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Ajonymous said:
So......

The audio probe helped a lot. Found that audio wasn't even getting to the first resistor in the circuit. So here I found stupid issue one: the diagram on the website has the tip and ring backwards, at least for me. I don't have a TRS cable, so that probably changes the wiring for me. I think.

I followed the audio probe to the very end of the circuit but still wasn't getting any sound out. So here's stupid issue two: I didn't add enough solder on the output wire. Despite it looking ok, it still wasn't a good enough connection.

Thanks all for putting up with my stupidity.... Guess it takes failure and stupid issues to learn more.
Click to expand...
Was that diagram on Tayda ... I've also had that problem before
 
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