War Scythe - 2N1308 germanium transistors

Hello everybody,

I am building my second war scythe pedal. I used silicon transistor BC107A instead of the 2N1308 because I didn't find them. For this second one, I really want to try with the germanium ones.

Does someone know where I can buy it? Is there someone that is willing to sell me two (in Europ)?

Thank you very much !
 
Hello everybody,

I am building my second war scythe pedal. I used silicon transistor BC107A instead of the 2N1308 because I didn't find them. For this second one, I really want to try with the germanium ones.

Does someone know where I can buy it? Is there someone that is willing to sell me two (in Europ)?

Thank you very much !
Hi,

I'm also in Europe; and the kit i'll buy for this War Scythe PedalPCB has also a B107 silicon transistors instead of the 2N1308 germanium transistors.
But the orignal Hoof has an hybrid circuit combining selected NOS silicon and germanium transistors; so putting a B107 is not clonning the Hoof Side i think....

Did you find the germanium one and did you notice a big différence ? Which one do you finally prefer ?

I'm just an assembler and I don't know anything about electronics. I wouldn't even know which NPN Germanium transistors to replace this BC107 with to get a noise-free result and a sound close to the original.

If you have any leads, I'd appreciate some advice.
 
Where in Europe are you?

I buy a lot of germaniums from this vendor they're always good the CV7351 is just the military version of it

If you ask I'm sure he'll give you hfe and leakage specs


Here's the CV equivalents in case you're ever looking for germaniums you can't find you'll sometimes get the CV military spec ones

 
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Thanks Mcknib,

I'm in France (wow shipping from UK ebay are such Expensive ; Four times the price of the transistor.)

Thanks a lot but as i said having hFE and leakage specs won't help me as i'm only assembling ; i really know nothing in Electronic..
So I don't know what values are expected for a good result and as i see there are big différences in hFe and Leakage values

I you have any advice ;) for the value or other idea it'll be great :)
I need two
 
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Thanks Mcknib,

I'm in France (wow shipping from UK ebay are such Expensive ; Four times the price of the transistor.)

Thanks a lot but as i said having hFE and leakage specs won't help me as i'm only assembling ; i really know nothing in Electronic..
So I don't know what values are expected for a good result and as i see there are big différences in hFe and Leakage values

I you have any advice ;) for the value or other idea it'll be great :)
I need two
The CV7351 link on eBay is a good option if you aren’t able to measure. I think that in the link to the mods from Chuck you can find the best HFE values
 
The CV7351 link on eBay is a good option if you aren’t able to measure. I think that in the link to the mods from Chuck you can find the best HFE values
If you go with the Chuck values, you should also go with the Soviet germaniums. They sound just as good as their western counterparts and they cost a fraction of the price.
 
If you go with the Chuck values, you should also go with the Soviet germaniums. They sound just as good as their western counterparts and they cost a fraction of the price.
Mp38A are great, little lower gain. 2n130x and cv7351 are brighter imo. I’m not sure it’s advisable to build this without being able to measure or experiment. At least that’s the fun and essential part for me with fuzz pedals. ;)
 
100%. I never build a fuzz without breadboarding and tweaking it first. That’s at least half the fun!
i socket everything but i'm learning fuzzes require a lot more attention to components than i generally enjoy. once i finish the FV1 dev board i think that's more my speed...
 
Took a look inside an acquaintance’s EQD Hoof Reaper that he swore “sounded better than every other Hoof he’s played” (he wanted me to clone just the Hoof and Tentacle bits into a smaller enclosure), and lo and behold it had MP38s in it, fwiw.

(There was also a video on EQD’s channel where they opened up Hoof #001, and Jamie said that the germaniums in the circuit has changed over the years depending on what they were able to get, which a) explained the MP38s in the Hoof Reaper I saw, and b) reinforces the idea that there isn’t really a *definitive* Hoof BoM, so don’t sweat not being able to find 2N1308s.)
 
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Every time I use genuine 2N1308s (or the CV7351) I find them fussy to bias and thinner/brighter sounding than the Russian MP38. The MP38s almost always sound better to me - warmer, fatter, however you like to describe them. And they are generally easier to get working. As well as being way less expensive!
 
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