Emu Amp Sim Switches

[stvmgn]

The slide switches recommended for this build don’t protrude out of the enclosure. Rather it’s about flush with it. Adding the faceplate makes it worse. Disappointing. I might try to crazy glue a bit of plastic onto them so that they protrude more, unless anyone has a better suggestion.

 

[jcpst]

Two thoughts- can the switches be mounted on the tips of their legs to get a bit more length? Also, can the legs on your pots be (carefully) bent so that the PCB gets closer to the face of the enclosure?

 

[stvmgn]

The body of the switch is directly against the enclosure. The problem is the actuator height of the switch is too short. It’s 3mm but really should be 9mm.

No one else had this issue?

 

[KR Sound]

If I remember correctly, it’s been kinda difficult sourcing these switches. Outside of sketchy ali dealers, the one Robert has for sale were the only good ones we could find. Are you able to toggle them at all even thought they don’t stick out? Like with your thumbnail or with a pic or something?

 

[Robert]

The body of the switch is directly against the enclosure. The problem is the actuator height of the switch is too short. It’s 3mm but really should be 9mm.

You have to drill out the area around the switches entirely. The switches should be bumping against the back of the faceplate, not the enclosure.

This is why the holes for the slide switches are so exaggerated on the drill template. (Not because I really liked Total Recall)



With that said, @Rpschultz13 has built one without the faceplate and the switches appear to protrude through the enclosure like they should.

R

1590BB Post in thread 'EMU amp simulator'

Sep 24, 2023

• Rpschultz13

• 

 

[stvmgn]

That might actually work. Drilling the larger holes in the enclosure and putting the switches flush against the faceplate. Smart.

I used the Tayda drill template that was provided to me which only had the rectangle holes cut in the enclosure.

I’ll check this out when I get home. Thank you for your suggestions!

 

[jcpst]

This is why the holes for the slide switches are so exaggerated on the drill template. (Not because I really liked Total Recall)

But now I think I know what Tech 21 had in mind

 

[stvmgn]

Could a on-on-on toggle switch be used rather than slide switches? The slide switches are DP3T and toggle switches seem to be DPDT so I’m not sure. If they can be used, what would the wiring look like for this project?

 

[jcpst]

It doesn't seem like the dpdt on/on/on can be used.

The schematic from the dp3t datasheet:

Schematic of dpdt on/on/on:

Schematic from the Emu docs:


The three positions on the dpdt do not provide three separate paths, but rather the middle ON is a variation of the other two ON positions.

 

[stvmgn]

So, I made a mistake in mounting the slide switches. I mounted them too short. I got confused. Instructions didn’t talk about it. Anyways, when I was desoldering my work, the switches broke. My fault totally.
So I went to my local electronics store and asked them if they could find these switches. I gave them the datasheet too that Tayda has. They came back with the ones attached from C&K Switches. It looks like a great candidate. Pretty sure I can make it work. A nice feature is the actuator is 5mm long. I placed an order for 3. Looking forward to completing this pedal!

C&K



Tayda

 

[Feral Feline]

Depending on the type, you could do it with 4PDT on-on-on switches.
You need 2-poles per switched signal path of the EMU, hence the 2P3T sliders; so a DPDT behaving like a SP3T means a 4PDT for each slider.
Detailed wiring in this thread of how to make it work.

This type:






I think "Alco" has the desired configuration (Type 2).
Dimarzio EP1111 as well.



NOT Ibanez, ttbomk.
Here 'tis...




Since it'd be all offboard wired, the Type 3 4PDT on-on-on switches could be used too.


Thing is, 4PDT are huge compared to the slider switches; while the bulky-beggers could be accommodated by the EMU's enclosure, they might not be in a user-friendly space though.

Just posting in case others run into similar situation but aren't able to source the correct switches.
Luckily ... you found the correct type.
I was saved from using my 4PDT on-on-on switches by @chris.knudson, who kindly sent me a trio of the correct type of sliders.

 

[T-Go]

The build docs call for 6 x 5-pin 2.54mm Male Pinheaders. I suppose these are to extend the switches to protrude through the faceplate?

 

[Robert]

The build docs call for 6 x 5-pin 2.54mm Male Pinheaders. I suppose these are to extend the switches to protrude through the faceplate?

Yes, the switches mount onto small adapter boards that connect to the main PCB with pin headers.