...
I’m calling it the Midas (get it?, a touch of gold).
...
No. Please, do explain.
You should breadboard the circuit, and play with altering values.
Don't forget it's not just the caps, you may need to alter a resistor's value along with an associated cap to affect the desired result.
I strongly recommend building or at least breadboarding
Chuck D Bones bass version, and follow along the changes with the schematic and that will help you to understand the circuit better and where you may want/need to make changes.
For instance, doing so would help you narrow down where the "honk" is coming from, the clean feed or the dirty channel. Increasing C4 would help increase clean bass, whereas increasing C7 will help warm the tone when the gain is "dimed".
You did say "
...the pedal sounds perfect to me until I creep up the gain knob ...", so maybe C7 is the key and it's done and dusted.
Maybe combine that C7 augmentation with a slight increase in C8, which also would darken the dirty channel...
Here's a list of Chuck D. Bones' bass mods:
- C2 1uF Increase bass feeding into dirty channel & bass bleed
- C3 10uF Increase bass subharmonics in bypass mode
- C4 150nF Increase clean channel bass
- C7 330nF Increase bass when Gain is dimed
- C8 560pF Darken dirty channel slightly
- C9 10uF Increase bass feeding the clipping diodes
- C12 15nF Increase mids when Gain is around noon
- C13 47F Reduce mid scoop when Gain is at zero
- C15 6.8nF Move Tone range down to include the upper mids
- C16 10uF Increase bass subharmonics when the pedal is engaged
- R7 3K3 Increase clean channel volume
- R14 10K Increase bass bleed
- VOL A10K Improved sweep at lower volume settings
Lastly, I'll add that your friends' ears and gear are different than yours, so chasing that last 2% may not be necessary as I think each one will be well chuffed to receive such a generous gift!