Ideas on a very small order + bypass switcher

iamjackslackof

Well-known member
Question for the hive mind.

I am trying to build the smallest A/B switcher that also has an on/bypassed switch. I have a UAFX Orion that I really like for slapback and longer delays, but it doesn't have presets. My idea is to get another Orion, leave them both enabled, and then A/B switch them, along with an on/bypass switch for no delay.

I'm trying to think of how to do this in as small a package as I can. I'm also open to schematics/PCB for this as well, if this exact thing already exists. Otherwise I'll just combine an A/B with a normal switching setup.

I figure I need 6 jacks and 2 3PDT stomp switches. LEDs might change that though, and I think they'll be a requirement. It seems like a lot for a 1590, A or B.

Another possibly dumb idea I had is to use a stereo jack for in and out from each pedal, and use a Y cable to the pedal jacks. I have no idea if this is possible/too noisy/otherwise problematic, does anyone know?

The last quirk is I am using a Temple Audio board with quick releases. A possible idea I had is to use a riser to put 1 pedal on top of the other, and the switcher nearby/next to the stack of Orions. The slapback doesn't need settings changed, so it can be underneath and inaccessible.

This is a lot of rambling and half-baked ideas, but I'd love some input, thoughts, or ideas on how to accomplish this. Or if anyone could convince Universal Audio to add presets to the Orion, it would save me some work :)

Thanks!
 
Nothin' against Saturnworks, actually, but... You should build it yourself!





You could use a 2Knob-Job from GPCB,

Either-Or Effects Selector & Bypass 2knobjob PCB.png

but really you don't need any PCBs...



I'm sure I worked up a version of this but couldn't find my own diagram, so here's one from MDC:

A:B LOOP SWITCHER & ORDER SWITCHER ONLY MASTER OFF by mdc.png
 
Nothin' against Saturnworks, actually, but... You should build it yourself!





You could use a 2Knob-Job from GPCB,

View attachment 89886

but really you don't need any PCBs...



I'm sure I worked up a version of this but couldn't find my own diagram, so here's one from MDC:

View attachment 89885

Thank you! I would absolutely rather build it myself. But it's nice to know if I screw it up or can't get it working I have a backup plan.

And that diagram honestly seems simpler than I expected, with LEDs even! Where is it from? Can't place MDC, but I recognize the image style.

I looked into Y cables, and I think they'd end up being somewhat bulky and annoying and probably not much of a space saver, if they're even possible, which I'm not sure on still.

Finally, I wonder what the smallest box I could smash this into. 6 jacks and 2 stomps is a lot, and I'm using pancake jacks on my board. I think 125B is certainly doable, so that would be the biggest, so not bad at all if I can't go smaller. I'm also thinking about maybe getting creative and trying to re-house the Orions or something, in an attempt to squish everything into the smallest space possible.

Thanks again @Feral Feline !
 
Oh, I had another idea! What if I make the main on/off switch remote switchable? I've never done it before, I'm certain it's possible, but I don't know how. I've done it for Strymon pedals and amps, but they are simpler than this, just momentary SPST or something, simply needing to temporarily make/break a connection.

I frequently try to emulate Jimmy Page/Zeppelin tones, and he has a on/off switch for his Echoplex on the floor, so I could do it too this way! He also has a single Echoplex and a roadie to change settings, so until I have that, I need this dual pedal setup :)
 
It should be able to be done inside a 1590B enclosure. I did a stereo-in to mono(L/R) out switcher in a 1590B and as you can see there is still room to re-arrange things to get two stomps into it and using just mono jacks, you should be good.
That's perfect, plenty of room for what I'm doing! Thanks Cybercow!. I'll be using all mono Lumberg jacks as well, so I'd have a little more room from that too 1590B it is!
 
Oh, I had another idea! What if I make the main on/off switch remote switchable? I've never done it before, I'm certain it's possible, but I don't know how. I've done it for Strymon pedals and amps, but they are simpler than this, just momentary SPST or something, simply needing to temporarily make/break a connection.

I frequently try to emulate Jimmy Page/Zeppelin tones, and he has a on/off switch for his Echoplex on the floor, so I could do it too this way! He also has a single Echoplex and a roadie to change settings, so until I have that, I need this dual pedal setup :)
Replying to myself, I think I have an idea on getting a remote switch working. I could use a standard PPCB relay bypass as the master on/off switch, which uses a SPST momentary switch. Add another jack and cable that runs out to a tiny enclosure with another momentary SPST switch. Voila. I think this should allow the main switch to work alone too. I'll probably just build the thing with a relay, and then add in the remote option later if I still decide I want it.
 
Oh, I had another idea! What if I make the main on/off switch remote switchable? I've never done it before, I'm certain it's possible, but I don't know how. I've done it for Strymon pedals and amps, but they are simpler than this, just momentary SPST or something, simply needing to temporarily make/break a connection.

I frequently try to emulate Jimmy Page/Zeppelin tones, and he has a on/off switch for his Echoplex on the floor, so I could do it too this way! He also has a single Echoplex and a roadie to change settings, so until I have that, I need this dual pedal setup :)

Yup, as Cybercow noted you can squeeze it all into a 1590B.

IF you want the remote option, and all jacks on one face, I'd recommend the 1590N1.
For that you'd of course need one of the Relay Bypass boards (which are actually more complex overall and more like the Strymon),
and then instead of hooking the switch up to it, you hook the mo up to a jack and then another 1590LB with the appropriate momentary hooked up to a jack.

You could hook up two relays, I think one would have to be the Intelligent relay, and use a TRS (stereo) cable from a 1590A with two footswitches so you could have bypass and A/B switched remotely. That's how they switch channels and a reverb on old amps, with a TRS, if I understand it correctly.

I can't find a pic of my own patch-bay, I posted it so it's on the forum somewhere, but anyway...

You can cram a lot in a 1590N1...
terminal-top-01-800x800-jpg.3343593
 
Yup, as Cybercow noted you can squeeze it all into a 1590B.

IF you want the remote option, and all jacks on one face, I'd recommend the 1590N1.
For that you'd of course need one of the Relay Bypass boards (which are actually more complex overall and more like the Strymon),
and then instead of hooking the switch up to it, you hook the mo up to a jack and then another 1590LB with the appropriate momentary hooked up to a jack.

You could hook up two relays, I think one would have to be the Intelligent relay, and use a TRS (stereo) cable from a 1590A with two footswitches so you could have bypass and A/B switched remotely. That's how they switch channels and a reverb on old amps, with a TRS, if I understand it correctly.

I can't find a pic of my own patch-bay, I posted it so it's on the forum somewhere, but anyway...

You can cram a lot in a 1590N1...
Thanks again!

What is the difference between a 125B and a 1590N1? I've always assumed they were the same thing size-wise.

Good call on needing a relay for the A/B switching. So far I think I would be OK with just remote switching on/bypassed, which would simplify things greatly. But it's good to have the option thought out and available if I change my mind.
 
A millimetre or 2 — essentially the same size.

I kind of lied to you though. That BoredBrain patch box is a little taller (IIRC) than a regular N1:

terminal-angle-800x800-jpg.3343592





Still though, N1 has lots of room for what you want to do!



1590A A/B switcher (toggle is for?) :

yq5otu5-jpg.2395820
Pic originally from DIYSB



Here's one about the size of a MXR box (Phase 90 etc)

dscf0095-2-jpg.2396848


I love that style of 4PDT ! Never got one; years ago I could only find them on European parts-sites so... to HK or Canada — $₶৲₱₽৲₦₲!
Now I can't seem to find them at all.

Anyhooo... with an N1 and staggering the jacks up and down a bit, I think you can get all jacks on one side of the enclosure.

Also, forgot to mention that with a switched jack, you could build the N1 up as a standalone, but when you plug in the remote-cable into that switched jack your little 1590LB/A/G/whatever can do the switching remotely.

For me, maximum versatility is the way to go. Better to have something and not need it than to need something and not have it.

So I'd go...

N1
7 jacks (IN OUT AS AR BS BR REMOTE)
2 RELAY STOMPERS (both Intelligent, so can stomp-hold for momentary or stomp-release for latching)
1 Intelligent Bypass​
2 Intelligent Switching​
1 Funky Graphic or paint
 
N1 it is!

And I think you're right on the relay for the A/B switch. I have several non-intelligent ones already built in bulk, but I'm not sure on why I would need the intelligent ones. I've never used them and don't fully understand their use cases. I do think I'll need a relay switching instead of my existing bypass one, for A/B switching.

It's funny that the absolute hardest part of all of this would be for me to come up with anything remotely approaching good graphics or paint haha.

And I just realized I already have an A/B audition pedal built, that really only needs a master switch added. I think I'll still build this from scratch though, as I don't want to lose my audition pedal, or deal with building another.

Thanks yet again!
 
I'd just be using the intelligent ones for momentarily engaging whatever's in the loops.

Like if you had a fast tremolo in one and a slow phaser in the other and had the phaser on for most of the song and then to introduce the middle-eight bring in the tremolo for just a few bars by standing on the switch and once let go it goes straight back to slow-phasing.

In most cases it'd be easy enough to just turn the loop on/off or switch loops with a stomp, but for the occasional hectic outburst, being able to stutter-stab with your toe can be a fun thing, if otherwise useless.
 
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