WIP Amp build - Deliverance 60 made 2 channels

Asdrael

Well-known member
You guys might have seen my Rosamp Slo 30 kit build at the end of 2024. I really liked doing it, and I really like the end result.

But (there is always a but)... I still miss dearly my VHT Deliverance 60 that I had a while ago, before power soaks were common. Amp was massive, loud, but so freaking nice to play. If you are not aware, it's has two gain knobs per channel and a KT88 pair in the power section so fairly unique. I ended up selling it because, being a single channel and no loop amp, I felt it was too barebone for me. I then got a Sig:X for a while but that's another story.

I recently stumbled on a few sources that had reliable schematics and a very nice guy (headcrash if you read this... thanks so much again) from another forum was kind enough to send me some files for a Deliverance 60 he did with 2 masters. I jumped on the occasion, but wanted to make significant changes:
- an FX loop
- fully 2 channels, meaning the Less and More more will each have their Gain I and Gain II knob and volume, and be footswitch-able
- "big lunchbox" size. Goal was to have everything fit in a Hammond 1444-1783 (17"x8"x3").

So i went to work. The issue was that I know (knew?...ish) nothing about tube amp schematic, relays, and PCB designs. Queue quite a learning curve on Fusion (greatly facilitated by the aforementioned nice guy) and this is where I stood:

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To turn it into a PCB, I inspired myself from his work but had to move stuff around to include the bigger and more numerous relays, as well as redesign how the preamp and power section were split.

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I also -since I was at it- learned some very, very basic 3D modelling to see how stuff could fit.

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Happy with this, I ordered everything. I went with WIMA/Würth capacitors (being based in germany, I kinda had to), Alpha pots, Vishay resistors etc. The output transformer is a Hammond, the Power supply is a custom toroidal (from the German company Müller-Rondo, was fairly cheap too and it seems really solid). So decent grade stuff that I hopefully won't blow up on the power up. I will also make the headshell for multiply as I did for the Slo, and the metal panels will be ordered once I get there to make sure I have the right size. PCB from JLCPCB.

I received everything except the tubes (will be some Psvane that I got on Aliexpress, wish me luck), and all was good but two disappointments:
- Hammond series 1444 chassis are thin. I didn't really realize how weak 1.2mm aluminum felt. I sent it back as I could bend it with one thumb. Got a custom chassis made which ended up being cheaper but is 3mm thick aluminum. Shit won't bend yo. It's actually not a chassis but a wall cap (I don't know how it's called in english). Kinda like a fancy gutter really. Dimensions are basically the same: 440x200x65 (internal).
- I fucked up the PCB slightly :ROFLMAO: everything is fine but for some reason I got the socket footprint wrong. The pins won't fit, the diameter is wrong, and the pads are thin as hell. I just corrected it and sent it back for production, also making some pads slightly larger (diodes and small resistors) so it's easier to build. They looked cool though.

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So yeah V1.1 coming up soon. I checked every other spacing, etc and everything seems fine really.


I am now designing the faceplate (that I will laser engrave on a black/white multiply). Might move some stuff around but so far I like it.

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I should get the new PCBs in a week or so and then start with the assembly and drilling the chassis. Exited to start building this!
 
Awesome!! Marshall style rocker switches on the front panel?

I have been toying around with switching the Dumble Bluesmaster inspired build in my queue from a JTM50 power amp to a Park 75 power amp. Mercury Magnetics makes a transformer set… what KT88s are you going to use?
 
Awesome!! Marshall style rocker switches on the front panel?

I have been toying around with switching the Dumble Bluesmaster inspired build in my queue from a JTM50 power amp to a Park 75 power amp. Mercury Magnetics makes a transformer set… what KT88s are you going to use?

Yep, rocker switches. VHT/Fryette uses those too but in green. I also have the smaller version in case in run into real estate problems (I will do a test on laser cut wood before).

I am going to use Psvane KT88C. According to different sources, it’s difficult getting reliable KT88 those days because they have such widely varying plate currents your bias range might be too small. Fryette mentions getting some ranging from 10 to 130mA (!) whereas a normal bias circuit is mostly designed for like 30 to 50. I just happened to find a good deal on Psvane and the seller assured me he could match my plate currents requirements (and not ignore my question like the others). Let’s see what I get, should be here this week.

Your project sounds cool but don’t forget that KT88 have a specific impedance requirement on the OT and you might need a different one.
 
Making some progress while waiting for PCBs is hard. So just more planning:

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Also received some tubes. The seller did match my request for 40mA Ip, so there is that. Packaging was prefect too. All power tubes and all preamp tubes are here now (although I will buy some 12ax7 here and there at some point to do some tube rolling). Forgot how freaking massive the KT88 are...

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Now preparing the drill template for the chassis.
 
First actual progress today! I populated the PCBs. They look good and I had no particular issue, I just had to solder off a resistor that I had misplaced. Since all my tolerances are tight it wasn’t that fun but I managed. I think some pads could be slightly larger but with a thin tip it was very doable.

Power board:
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Those diodes are a major pain. Monster leads and thin body. Great specs tho.
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The preamp is also looking pretty tasty! Würth and Wima caps are very fashionable.
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The voltage regulator will supply all relays and preamp tube heaters so it needs a beefy heat sink. Got flashbacks from my PC building days putting thermal paste with a mini spatula again.

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To wrap it up I also planned the drilling on the chassis top and finished up the dxf for the faceplates.

I will do some more continuity testing but so far everything seems fine. Next up: chassis drilling and off board wiring.
 
Update long overdue, but between sickness and being abroad on a conference, I barely had time to make some progress.

Anyhow, worked on the chassis and faceplates. I did a test run on plywood on our laser, just to see how I liked the looks and use as a drill guide. Looking good I think! I just have to fix the alignment of the numbers on the pots.

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Some drilling was in order next. 3mm aluminium is way stronger than it sounds, the bigger step bits had a tough time, even with lubrication.

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But hey, between the guides and the drill press, I managed to drill in a line!

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I really had a bad time drilling the 32mm diameter holes for the octal sockets. I had to drill to 26 or so, take a file and approximate a round hole until 30mm, and finish up very slowly with a 32mm step bit. The switch and IEC weren't that fun as well but really doable. Remember than the front and back will be covered by transply anyway. Then I had to deburr everything, sand it, blast it, clean it up with Acetone and tape it to prepare for the base coat.

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And to the makeshift spray booth:

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Base coat is done (grayish currently), and I will do matte black with a protective coat over the course of the week. That's just for the outside, the inside remains as is for conductivity.
 
Yesterday evening was transformer installation, wiring and general cosmetics.

I am using Transply for the faceplates. I had to do a few laser runs to make sure it was working as intended, but it didn't turn out too bad. I made everything using AutoCad and I am using the same font I use for everything I do.

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The spray painted and lacquer coated chassis didn't turn out too bad too, despite the rather poor conditions currently here. A bit dusty and some finger prints but they cleaned up nicely. I only messed up 2 holes that were slightly missaligned apparently, and got taken by surprise by the linear Alpha pots that apparently have a 9mm diameter instead of the 7mm on the log ones (??).

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I took my sweet time installing all the hardware inside and the transfos. Looks rad I think!

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I also started with the wiring inside and fit the "power board" with the power tube sockets. If anyone needs that information: Belton noval PCB sockets like 10mm spacers, Belton octal PCB sockets prefer 15mm spacer. There, I saved you 1€.

I am soldering where the connection absolutely needs to be solid and I am trying to follow both good electrical practice (different ground position for the IEC and the rest, fuses where they need to be) and amp wiring practice (short leads, twist those AC baby). I am using Faston connectors where I know I may need to revise the plan. Looks neat. Tyding up will be done a bit further down the road with plastic binders / hooks taped on the chassis like I did with the SLO. So it won't be a rats nest like on the picture.

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In case you are wondering, the black twisted wire are the heaters for the power tubes. The preamp tubes get a DC heater (through a rectified and regulated 14AC coming from the brown twisted wire).

OT output all neat. You can see the M6 rivets I am using too.

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Yay baby
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Note for self: next time I design a PCB, I need to remember that off the shelf transformer (I am looking at you Hammond) do not have very long lead. Or I got bad luck. The OT power supply line is a tad short and I will likely have to extend it for comfort. The rest is fine though.

I will prepare all the pot wiring at home this week (30 or so wires) and the rest of the preamp off board wiring (FX, switch) so next session should see the electronics completed.
 
Looking great :)

What Hammond did you choose for the OT?

Do you have a link for the Faston connectors you are using? This last week I ordered and received a big bag of Molex kits that can handle 600V but they just feel meh to me.
 
Looking great :)

What Hammond did you choose for the OT?

Do you have a link for the Faston connectors you are using? This last week I ordered and received a big bag of Molex kits that can handle 600V but they just feel meh to me.
Thanks ! The OT is a Hammond 1650NA. Fits the bill almost perfectly. The Faston are TE electronics fully insulated https://www.digikey.de/short/25fm4h87 . Just be careful with the tab width and wire gauge when ordering. They seem fine to me, but afaik they are the same thing as Molex more or less (they even have a gentleman agreement to use the same dimensions afaik).

This is coming together beautifully!!!

Thanks !
 
Well yesterday was a productive day.

I spent quite a lot of time beforehand planning and preping at home, so I could go in the workshop and go from this:

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To this:

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After doing some tests, I also concluded that a thick ass chassis (3mm alu) made the noval socket just a tad shy of flush, and the preamp tubes would possibly be rubbing against the chassis when fully mounted. So I decided to remove the safety rings between chassis and spacer and simply mount the spacers with a bit of locktite. Brought everything down a good mm and where I wanted.

Anyhow, preamp PCB fits!

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Soldering everything took a bit. Also, some pot wiring was "just" the perfect size (aka: bend the lug a tad to solder). No biggie but could have used a cm extra. I also invested in good 3:1 heatshrink. I needed something decent to extend some transformer wiring, and nothing is as irritating as a loose heatshrink.

All soldered in place and tidy:

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Doesn't look half bad I think! Here are some 'macro' shots (yes I almost forgot the LED. Went for a dual green/red):

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A lot of it has been made so each board can be taken out completly without / with very very minimal desoldering. Which I hopefully won't have to do.

Next up: pray before I fire it up and build the headshell.
 
I couldn’t wait any longer. So good news, bad news.

Test bed while the wife was kind enough to take the kids to the playground:

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I went through the entire “RobRobinette amp startup” procedure with my trusty current limiter. Got a cramp clumching my buttcheeka so hard and so long.

Well it was not for nothing. IT IS ALIVE!

Here is a quick shitty noodling video recorded from my phone. pardon the shitty playing, I was shaking of excitement with a multimeter plugged in and a speaker under the table.


First impression: Yep, it's a Deliverance. Sounds just like I remember. Balls, present everywhere on the spectrum, dynamic and always (to me) pleasant. I have set the bias to what is recommended on a real DL and it seems fine (65-67mA per tube). Funnily enough, when I go to 75+ it starts squeeling by itself. Might have to look into this. It's also a bit more boomy than I remember it with regular settings on the "less" channel. I might build in a bright switch with a push pull pot, not sure yet.

There is a major issue tho. Apparently, the front panel toggle switch for the less/more channels was mounted upside down. So I need to rotate it 180°. The LED colors are correct though. Only issue I could find so far! :p

Have to say I am proud of myself on that one. From not having a schematic / PCB software installed to this in a couple of months. Got a bit of help and learned a lot on the way! Now I have to really make that headshell and put the amp in, I can't leave a 476V B+ open with two kids running around for long... and I want to play that thing.
 
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