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Photos of the solder side will probably help. Given that one side is working, your power is probably working, unless there is a broken track or poor solder. An audio probe will probably show you where the signal is being lost. That will then show you where to look - most likely it is a bad...

I am not sure if this matters or not, but the only difference I can see that is in the audio path that is common to all the octaves is that there is a capacitor and resistor missing in the output of the pedal pcb schematic. This is the output section. C8 goes to the line that carries the mix...

90% of the time if a pedal works out of the box and doesn't when it's in the box, it is either bad offboard wiring, or something touching something that it shouldn't be. Have a look for shorted components on the board (pots are prime candidates) and badly wired jacks. When you tried it out of...

I think that in your situation before I replaced anything more I would trace through with an audio probe just to see what happens to the signal. That should hopefully give you some idea which component is busted.

The photo isn't clear. I am a bit sus of the soldering on the transistors, but it is hard to tell. What voltages are you getting on the IC?

What behaviour are you seeing from the gain control? The gain on this does 2 things. It increases the gain (which should introduce some dirt). It also pans from an all clean signal to an all dirt signal (not that this ever gets really dirty). It is possible therefore to have the dirt part of...

If you have 2 identical resistors to make up a voltage divider, and the divider is not giving you half voltage then there is a lot more current drawn from one half of the divider than the other. I would be guessing a blown component that is not fully shorted to a power rail

There are a couple of tantalum caps on the board. If they are C5 and C6 then they are polarised - tantalum caps are definitely polarised.

I am guessing the capacitor doesn't fit. It looks as if the leads are not touching anything they shouldn't, but you are just asking for trouble. I would be covering them with heatshrink just to make sure for all time.

The numbering of the pins in that picture is the standard numbering used by every manufacturer and every engineer in the entire world. That method of numbering is what we need to be using to make sure that we are all communicating about the same thing.

OK. IC1 pin 4 should be ground - this is correct IC1 power pin (8) should be at 9V (or close to). At 0.3V this is way wrong. You are getting (V at pin 5 though. This is way wrong. I would be expecting probably about 4 to 5 V on the rest of the IC1 pins. IC2 pin 4 is supposed to be -9V...

Your numbers make very little sense indeed. Can you confirm that you have numbered the pins according to this diagram? Maybe make a chart like this: IC1 1 xxxV 2 VVVV 3 YYYv etc with the pins numbered as per this diagram - this is the standard way that pins are numbered. If your...

I am thinking power supply problems. Measure the voltages on your IC pins and transistor pins with it working and not working

The parts list doesn't show a dual pot, but the schematic definitely does. According to the schematic it should be a dual A50K (with right angle PCB pins)

Most of the build docs contain the schematic. You should be able to work out where the power goes from the schematic with the board in front of you. If you can't then it is worth taking the time to learn how to read the schematic well enough to do that.

Red = power, black = ground is pretty much a universal standard. Anytime you see manufactured electronic items of any type, the red wires will be power, and black wires will be ground. Obviously don't change anything you have already done, but in future you may want to adopt this standard - it...

Yep. my first thought was that was clearly a before pic. (before soldering I mean)

There are a few other pins down that same side that look as if the solder hasn't flowed well too. 18 looks the worst. I have to admit that if I reflowed 18 and everything then worked properly I would leave the rest alone :-)

R5 has one end that connects to pin 13 of the fv-1. The other end connects to 3.3v. Find the 3.3v end and lift it. Connect to ground instead. That will enable the fv1 internal programs and disable the eeprom. If you get sound now the problem is in the eeprom, it's soldering, or the...

It is a bit hard to tell but it looks as if pins 10 to 14 of the FV-1 are not really well soldered. Some of the pine connecting to the EEPROM are in that lot, so with them not well soldered the EEPROM isn't connecting and there is no program for the chip to run