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Ok, here's an interesting twist - if i turn down my guitar's tone knob, the frequency changes and when tone gets low enough the squeal goes away entirely. it's totally muffled sounding, but I've tried two guitars with HBs and single coils with the same effect. There is no squealing without a...

Before I pull this pain in the butt back out of the enclosure and post pics, I'm just wondering if there is anything in the schematic itself that would be the likely culprit here. Everything is working great on my most recent build of this, except for one thing - with the EP in front of the OCD...

Yeah, reflowing everything was my first step and I did it again with lots of flux last night to make sure. No change. I may pull out c12 and re-do that just to make sure.

I really should buy two boards when I'm going to try something new with the circuit. Wanted to build a Green Russian with the intent of a 2-in-1 with the squidward. Why not add a Hoof-style Shift control while I'm at it. I wired lug 3 of a b50k pot to the live pad on r18, bridged lugs 1/2...

Yes, definitely going to make those changes. I can only compare it to the actual EQD Cloven Hoof I owned previously, but the changes you suggested on my Ungula build vastly improved the utility of the Shift knob. It's still a staple for me. Does the rest of it look correct, as far is...

I'm doing a Muffin Fuzz with a Squidward for an additional octave, and was planning to add the Shift control from the Hoof/Ungula. Seems like an easy mod, but wanted to check before doing this - solder lug 3 of a B25k pot to the first pad of R18, bridge lugs 1/2 of the pot, then solder one leg...

I remember hearing that the Zap Machine uses transistors that are out of production, which was the reason it was such a limited run. Is there a BOM, what's the Q3 transistor or equivalent for the Double Tap?

This is probably a dumb question, but what components do I need for this handy expression controller? Is there a wiring diagram available? Is it literally just a 6 pin jack and a long legged pot? What value should the pot be?

I was just thinking I might try and replace that diode as a first step, I have some new 5817s incoming. With the audio probe I was getting sound going into IC1, but none coming out from pin 1 on that IC.

Thanks again, got sidetracked by stupid work stuff but I'm going to try and pull that IC tonight and replace it with a socket to try some further troubleshooting.

Really nice playing on this demo, that progression starting around 2:50 is perfection.

I do, I can try removing IC1 in a bit and see what happens.

I removed the switch and i/o module, plugged it into my testing platform. Still nothing, but here's something interesting - with the volume pot at zero, if I turn it up it pops. like there's a pop right when you start turning it from zero. Weird.

Bump before I give up and pull the trigger on another pcb, cheers.

Ok so something is definitely wrong here. Thanks for this, I've gone over the whole thing again, scrubbed it, saw some things that looked like shorts but weren't once the flux was gone. Stumped. Gonna try again in a bit.

IC100 pin 5 is -8.48, looks like i left out the "-" above, but i just measured everything again and came up with the same numbers as before. Definitely scratching my head on this one. I start at pin 1 top left and go counterclockwise on them.

Hey all, got the Cobbler put together and trying to troubleshoot it. No output from the pedal, with the audio probe I'm getting no signal coming from pin 1 of IC1. I wasn't paying attention and somehow dropped an OPA2134 in for IC1, is that a critical error or just a $6 oops? Voltages are...

That would work, I think I actually used an A100k since I had that on hand already, same result just a wider sweep.

What color are the Lycan clipping diodes?

@MichaelW did you use pin headers for the footswitches, and the drill template posted in the missing docs thread? Just trying to make sure mine is going to line up properly, I love when I can use the pin headers instead of wiring every connection.