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Yeah, a 470k where there should be a 100r would probably cause a problem. I'll test it out with the right value when my wife wakes up from her nap. No sense in getting this fixed and being murdered 30 seconds later.

Adding that while in the pics it looks like there is a short/solder between R6 and R9, that's been taken care of and didn't change anything.

Had some issues with bad GE transistors on the Ungula, eventually ripped off some solder pads trying to swap out parts and grabbed another board with an order during the last sale. It's a little flux-y still, but I'm not seeing any shorts or other issues that would cause output to be slightly...

Big fan of mine, it was my second build and it's been a staple on my board ever since. I don't see the need for any other chorus, although I do kinda want a mix knob on it.

I ordered a few 308s from Banzai because I needed one for a VFE Alpha Dog, figured I may as well grab multiples. I'm aware the OP07 gives the same sound, I did it for the mojo. I'm looking around and curious if any pedals other than the Rat are known for using this specific chip? I'm not seeing...

Oh yeah, sorry this is the dual version.

The first one that came out, I've had it sitting in my to-build box since it released here.

Thanks, I figured it wouldn't matter that much. Just wanted to be certain. Out of curiosity, what's the function of that cap?

Hey, I've got one component missing for this build, there's a 120pf cap between the left gain and volume pot, looking at the top of the board (don't know what the number is, no build docs or schematic up yet). I don't have a 120pf, can anyone familiar with the circuit tell me if there would be...

Double check your values. Turns out I had a bunch of 100k ohm resistors labeled as 10k, causing grounding issues all over. Replaced them all with the correct values and it sounds great.

I am, why do you ask?

That seems to have solved the volume pot issue, although now the distortion/gain pot does nothing and it sounds like that's always dimed. Gonna go over the whole thing with my magnifier this weekend and scrub the crap out of it with iso again.

I noticed that BO spot when i posted the pic, going to hit that again with the toothbrush in a bit and re-test it. For some reason this board has been really stubborn when it comes to clean up.

I'm building a Mas Effects Dark Commotion, schematic here: https://mas-effects.com/files/black-noise-schematic.png It's the third one I've made, since he sent me extras on accident and told me to keep them. No problem whatsoever with the first two, but I have a really strange problem with this...

I would post the block diagram drawings I've done so far, but they make the inside of that box look like a work of art. I'll try and map out another one after I get tired of doing actual work. In my experience, the ringer sounds way better before a fuzz than after, but I was hoping the ability...

Editing to add where I'm at so far: In jack --> Blender In Blender O --> Buff In Blender S/R --> Squid I/O Buff S/R --> Muff I/O Buff O --> Int. Bypass I, Int. Bypass O --> Out jack Int. G/Switch --> Squid G/Switch

Sorry if this isn't the right forum, I can move if so. Been staring at this mess for an hour now, and not for the first time. I probably do it once a week. I keep looking at it for a while and getting close, then going "nope, not today." Ignore the missing diodes on the pedalpcb intelligent...

Chuck D. Bones Circuit Wizard Dec 20, 2019 Add bookmark #2 Nice work! We learn by doing. There is nothing magic about 2N1308s, you can try other Ge transistors. I saw a gut-shot of a EQD Hoof and it had 2N647 transistors. For the Hoof / Ungula, the transistors need to be low leakage. Socketing...

Good to know, all the reading I did on here last night seemed to point toward low leakage being key. Any recommendations for a budget tranny tester?

Thanks Chuck, I'll make these changes. I managed to find some MP35s on pedalhacker with "VERY low leakage" that hopefully do the trick.