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What about codeblocks? I've used it for C/C++ DLLs etc and it's pretty lightweight. Setup thread here: http://forums.codeblocks.org/index.php?topic=22758.0 Did a ton of stuff in the old VC++ but not much with the newer stuff

That was my thoughts - TL072 would be the most likely one to use as a "fake" and the ~ 8 mA (2x4mA in a dip8) would be a "rough" check. I actually remembered I had a stash I bought 10 years ago from Digikey so I'm pretty sure they're good ones.

Opinions on Military, MIL-PRF-39014, CKR05 ?? I know they aren't C0G or NP0 (BX temp coefficient) - I have thousands of these I inherited from when some of our RD labs shut down.

I think ChuckDBones posted awhile back that he had spotted some fake OPA2134 by measuring current - is this the geneal method to check for fakes?

That's odd - I'd suspect a typo - do you have a schematic? What is the 4"n" doing in the circuit?

You may want to check that "4n" value again - if it shows a round circle on the PCB (electrolytic) are you sure it's not 4u? (more commonly 4.7u or 4u7) a "n" would mean nanofarad and I've never seen an electrolytic that small. 4u (4u7) is a common electrolytic value.

I usually buy my 1590B's from LoveMySwitches - but they're not in stock and I'm placing a Tayda order anyway. Anyone have good (or bad) things to say about Tayda encolsures? I only build for myself and don't need new car type paint and finish - but something that looks decent and doesn't...

Or I could go with the "nature" (W20k) vs separate bass and treble.... not sure if thats better but isnt the original that way? Has anyone done the mod trick to convert linear to log? https://electro-music.com/forum/phpbb-files/pot_taper_amz_168.pdf Also - opinions on the clipping pot? How...

Tayda doesn't stock A25k (the treble) pots - B25k or A20k - yes. Which is better to swap or do you really need the A25k? SmallBeard does - but ordering 1 pot is going to nail me for shipping

since I dont see a pedalpcb version : https://aionelectronics.com/project/prism-boss-fa-1-fet-amp-pcb/

Dozens from Elecrow - no issues (I use KiCad).

Board is way too tight for film caps - *maybe* C11 but no way C9 so electro it is. Thanks for the info on the TL072. I've always found that to be the case that there isn't much if any diff, especially for guitar stuff.

Thanks! Simple mods - I'll be sure to socketed those (C10 and C19) for experimenting Did you use 2134's?

Any issues with using 2.2uF in place of the 1uF electrolytics in C9 and C11 of the Ember (Spark) Boost? Thought I had a bunch in stock...

+1 on the lumberg 1/4 jacks. They are the only ones that let me stuff some of these projects into 1590B with top jacks

Thanks I'll give them a try. From the pics I've seen the fakes dont have the cut notch or divit so hopefully I can spot any

Tayda has 2134s for $3.5 - a buck cheaper than Mouser but I don't get hit with Mousers $9 shipping. Anyone bought these from Tayda or have opinion on reputability for these types of components? No dis intended - I've had GREAT luck with them but the market is flooded with fake JFETS, OP AMPS...

yeah I'm really liking the sounds he gets. The Chasm Reverb is interesting me with the oscillator

Recent score of several hundred NOS 2N2222A, some gold leads. Not a burning question - but any reason not to use them over 2n3904? And they just look cooler....

Thanks - I'm going to have to get one of those. Do you have any other of his pedals you'd recommend?