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Do you know how to make the clock circuitry compatible with a 5V chip?

If you flip the resistor chain, pin 13 gets 1V(ish). It's just -9V because of the TDA1022 datasheet. I did say not far off; I worked it out properly last time I looked at it.

I think I have a schematic drawn for it with +9V, remind me in a few days time. It's pretty easy really, not far off just literally flipping the polarity on everything.

Maybe I have been, maybe I'm in the room with you right now... :eek: Or not. Yup, I'm partially back and have returned to spread flippant remarks and unsolicited advice. Thanks for the welcome :)

I seem to remember it taking us about 6 or 7 prototypes and over a year to get the DandyHorse PCB working reasonably and I recently "redesigned" the MN3007 Echo Flanger for PastFX with every improvement I could think of, comparing it directly to original units and using all I had learned in the...

Hello... That's mildly amusing, I've worked for PastFX too. It's not an ideal solution as the clock won't be as clean as a divider would provide but you'd need to increase the clock frequency by 4 times otherwise. You need to split the oscillator output so you have the opposing phase, use a...

In that case, try poking the wire away from the 4011. I will say though we've been having issues with more recent production LT1054 chips introducing heterodyning (which can appear as a swoosh), we thought the Karaoke had been immune with the heavier filtering but perhaps not the case for...

LFO noise as in tick or more a swoosh? If it's tick, try poking your ground wires around a bit, they're dangling over the 358 LFO op amp.

:ROFLMAO: That one was my fault! BBD's were originally used heavily in Karaoke units and it just kind of worked for the Chorus sound. Naming is honestly the worst bit of the whole PCB affair. I'm glad you're digging what you've heard out of it so far though and it sounds like you're another...

The voltage on pin 2 & 4 of the 3102 (and by association pin 2 & 6 of the 3207) should be a steady half supply, possibly you might have burnt out the 33R resistor causing its voltage to fluctuate with frequency...

When you swapped in the new 3102, what voltages did you end up with on the 3207? Your new problem, assuming it's not the V.Ref drifting, sounds like it might just be related to a bad solder joint or wrong resistor value around the BBD itself.

I mean, even without the warmth, that 3102 ain't working. When you pull it out, hopefully you'll get 9V back on the 3207 pin 5.

Nah, it's good to IIRC... 11V is terminal, perhaps even 12, but 9-10V is fine.

He said he could get some phasing happening, just not from the LFO, right? So I vote LED, I remember I had some diffused white LED's that had zero impact on LDR's too.

LED light spectrum?

TL072, cheap, high input impedance, quiet. NE5532/LM833, good for low noise in EQ/Filter jobs, don't stick them everywhere unless you've got an idea what you're doing, high current draw, low input impedance and have some quirks in certain situations. 4558, fair overall op amp, not as good spec...

You can add as many stages of diodes/caps as you like practically, but the quantity required for anything over 50V (70 if you go with a 12V supply, which you're gonna want if you're playing with triodes any-who) makes it a bit impractical... I made this project some time back, layout ain't...

Listening to this gives me an idea, as a man of analogue talents but of too much laziness to progress to digital beyond a basic understanding, can I run a potential joint project venture I've had in mind for some time past you...? :unsure:

Hey! My desk looked really boring with that big plastic box on it.

You're very sweet to offer but I can't be buying any more pedals at the moment and I certainly couldn't accept it as a gift, although perhaps we could come to some... other arrangement :sneaky: