SOLVED Phase II No Work Right…

[Coda]

I get the filter, but no phase. The LED blinks, but it doesn’t seem to affect the tone. However…if I have it plugged in and on, and I move my finger towards the LED, or the TL072 just above, I can create the phase effect. It sounds great if I stand there and move my finger to and away from the top-left quadrant of the PCB…but I’m afraid that will take away from my showmanship, what having to stand there and manually create the effect…

 

[Coda]

Can you verify D3 type and orientation (1N4148)?

D3 is correctly oriented. D2 looked wrong, but it’s also correct.

LDRs out of range? Mislabeled?

This is what I am thinking. I don’t remember if I ordered more than I needed or no. If I did I could test one. I just perfected from Tayda last week…I think I remembered to get more LDRs. Word on the street is this is the best phaser ever…(but what about phasor?)

 

[Robert]

It's about the only logical thing left, although he used the same LDRs and LEDs I've used in all of mine I believe.

I suppose things happen, but dang, you'd think a couple of em would be in spec.

 

[Robert]

(but what about phasor?)

You'll have to ask Mu-Tron about that one.

 

[jimilee]

Is he testing it in the dark?

 

[Chuck D. Bones]

Good question. I was going to ask, but I was giving Coda the benefit of the doubt.

 

[Scruffie]

He said he could get some phasing happening, just not from the LFO, right? So I vote LED, I remember I had some diffused white LED's that had zero impact on LDR's too.

 

[fig]

Is he testing it in the dark?

Good question. I was going to ask, but I was giving Coda the benefit of the doubt.

I’ve tested it in broad sunlight, I’ve tested in day and night. I’ve tested it in goth coat dark…perhaps I’ll test it in a park?…

 

[fig]

If you decide to populate another, I‘ve just verified I have all the .125w needed (most are 4.7k and 220k anyhow). I had forgotten that I ordered the odd lot (120Ω) awhile back, so this reminded me to build mine (after all, it IS the best phaser). I‘d be happy to send you those, and it looks like some smaller 470n’s (I’ll check on that)?

Got ‘em. W=2.5mm x L=7mm. Bear in mind they are H=3m (j/k)

 

[fig]

Speaking of that 120Ω (R34), it’s underneath that 470n…can you verify value? It would be easy to stick a 120kΩ in there, and that appears to set the overall resistance for the rate. I‘m not knowledgeable enough to know for certain, but if the rate were far enough out of whack it might become inaudible.

 

[Coda]

Speaking of that 120Ω (R34), it’s underneath that 470n…can you verify value? It would be easy to stick a 120kΩ in there, and that appears to set the overall resistance for the rate. I‘m not knowledgeable enough to know for certain, but if the rate were far enough out of whack it might become inaudible.

R34 (see attached), located above the large cap and diode is correct (120R). R45, just below the large cap, is suspect. I see orange orange black orange brown. It should be orange orange black black brown (attachment #2). R45 comes off trim 2 to ground…

 

[fig]

Dammit, I mean whew.

Can I buy a vowel?

 

[Coda]

Dammit, I mean whew.

Can I buy a vowel?

See my edited post.

 

[Robert]

That would definitely affect the brightness of your LFO LED.

 

[fig]

That makes sense, but I suppose that’s why you said it.

 

[Robert]

Look I'm just trying to sell 330K resistors over here....

 

[fig]

I’d stock some ultra-bright yellows slightly scuffed up to go along with those.

 

[Coda]

That would definitely affect the brightness of your LFO LED.

I’ll get it swapped soon and we’ll see if it works. With the weather recently, my soldering iron will be one of the cooler things in the house…

 

[Coda]

That would definitely affect the brightness of your LFO LED.

That makes sense, but I suppose that’s why you said it.

Well, Fig did it again. Phasey goodness abounds now in the 88F work room. R45 was the culprit. As soon as the new PedalPCB is free, I’ll throw a batch of Blueberry Muffins in as a thank you…

 

[giovanni]

Nice!

 

[Coda]

One last update: I had the chance to mess around with the Phase II (of the Pines at Mar Gables) through the big boy test rig; Jazzmaster into the phasor, into a 1972 Acoustic 134. It was good…but it didn’t knock my socks off. Once I started messing around with the trimmers, however, all that changed. I arrived at what, for me, is an excellent set up: LED is set so that it basically goes from full light to full dark. The other trimmer (frequency), is full to the right. The effect is watery, a little vibey, and very rubbery. At this point it totally lives up to the hype. Best part is that as I dial up the Feedback control I get a whole new range of tones. I’m gonna work on some artwork and do a build report (I guess…)