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I don't have one assembled at the moment, but this is basically a Bluesbreaker ... aren't they known for lacking volume?

For years I've avoided them like the plague, only using them as a last alternative when I'm on the brink of losing my mind. 🤣 Lately, I've started to realize how much cleaner (and less stressful) some of my layouts would have been with a few vias. Technically it's really no different than...

C15 blocks DC current flow to ground through R17 > Tone Pot > R18. The tone bypass switch pops when switching without it.

Look closely at the IN/GND/SW/OUT connections at the bottom of the PCB. A short there could cause this behavior.

It's off by 0.1mm vertically according to their measurements. https://www.amplifiedparts.com/sites/default/files/associated_files/p-h1590n1ce-pd3_face_dimensions.pdf

It looks like the pots are spaced about 2mm further apart from center. That should be workable.

Yall want me to stock some pre-drilled enclosures for a few of the standard templates? I probably can't beat Tayda's price, but I could keep them in stock and available for quick shipping.

Wait.... you said it was a Tube Screamer. :oops: Coupon code "FIVEDOLLARDIODES", good for the next 24 hours. Don't tell anyone. ;)

Reuse them, just change the name and delete all the holes.

No more than any other surface mounted component. I wouldn't do it to mount a footswitch or anything taking impact, but for an opamp or SOT-23 transistor it'll work fine.

This is going to sound crazy, but sometimes you don't even have to use either. If the breakout board fits you can lay it flush against the PCB and let solder flow through the pads, no headers required... I'm not recommending you do it, but I've seen it done a time or two.

One of the toggle switch positions on the Cleric stood out above the others. (I can't recall which though, so there's that) The Keeley Psi fuzz is interesting: https://www.pedalpcb.com/product/kineticfuzz/

Measure on the end of the cable itself.

Also, insulate your PCB with something more substantial than electrical tape. Component leads tend to poke through and short to the enclosure... it's not always visible.

The longer lug should be the positive lug assuming your power supply is a standard negative tip pedal power supply. If you have a DMM a quick voltage measurement across the DC jack lugs will tell you if the polarity is correct.

Tenths of a millimeter? Man I'm doing good if my bit hits the box.

It looks like I let this one go a little too soon, I don't think I ever got around to measuring the SMD caps... I'll get another one so I can finish it up. Here's what I have of the Klon side... looks pretty much stock to me.

It could be some sort of accounting/inventory thing (stock from different suppliers or purchased at different costs, etc).