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Can you explain how the clock module works? I’ve seen it before but not sure how it all hooks up. Thanks!

Not yet but working on it.

Is it obvious how all the screws and bolts work together with the upper deck slider board? Just about to build this and curious how challenging it is. I've built the Muffin Factory with the face plate and DIP switch board so I'm guessing it'll make more sense as I put it together.

I know sometimes the ground issue is as simple as having the pots tightened too much against the enclosure. I’ve had that happen several times and is a really simple fix. Once you get it working again, rebox and tighten to finger strength. If still not working, try loosening the screws a bit so...

Yeah I think I tore it out when I pulled the LED and kept the soldering iron on the pad too long. It just melted the plastic and the pad and trace cams out of the PCB. I just did what Nostradoomus said: solder the anode leg to lug 3 of the rate pot totally worked. I did learn that white LED’s...

I think mainly the Magic pot. Whichever ones weren’t working right got resoldered and that fixed it.

Hi all, built the Loon Tremolo and it sounds great. However, I went to swap out the LED colo for a customer and tore out one of the pads and the wire from the PCB. I managed to work the ring of the pad back around the leg of a new LED but it’s not working :( looking at the schematic LED 1(the...

Hi all, A few months back, I built my first order switcher/looper based on a schematic that was shared here. Works great to have 2 loops I can turn off and on and switch the order as well. The only downside is that this doesn't have any LED's or power as it is just the 3x 3PDT's wired to the...

https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/duocast-diode-question.3323/#post-26676

It was the 15v diode that was the culprit. Now it sounds fine in 24v mode but just with more headroom. Thanks for the help!

This might be a dumb question, but do I need to use different power (I.e. 24v DC) when I switch from 9v to 24v on the Duocast. I wasn’t sure if that switch was just manipulating the power voltage internally or something you need to change power sources for. I ask because the right side (24v?)...

Solved it quite quickly last night. Resoldered the Regeneration pot and a couple pads a it worlds great now! So glad that was an easy fix! Pics to come soon once I finish graphics.

Awesome work! Love the graphics. For the procrastinator, did you get the 2SK30A transistor? Any link to where if you did? thanks

Show us the back side too please. Lots of things can go wrong on the solder side. But top side is good to double check values as well.

I surprised it didn’t work with actual 2SK30A transistor. That seems to be the common issues most of us have getting it to work. Still looking for real ones myself to try again!

Any update on the pre-drilled enclosures from Tayda?

Mine does the same noises. I’ll try and trade the signal for mine and see if I can find what the issue is.

Would love to see how you wired the trim pot up to do the feedback. I have a little PCB that I can never get to work that is supposed to do that as a “secondary” function type button.

@PedalPCB are there links to the specific sliders that should be used? Hopefully Tayda has them so we can get the enclosure and sliders all in one. Thanks!

Ahhh I see what you mean about the switches and which LFO controls what. It does work, I just had to select that switch to control the rate. Now that I’ve seen the LED’s alter I get a sense of what controls what. Thanks for all the help. A great sounding pedal. Super stoked to play around more...