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You could probably splice it before c1 and after c12.

You'd need to put the switch earlier, between the transistor and the 47n cap, then have one lug to the circuit and one lug as bypass to where you have it. I'd be interested to see if there were noise etc poking through because all the circuit is still on in the enclosure, just not engaged, but...

Yeah I have 2 or 3 test boxes that I label with masking tape until they're ready to move on. There's a 3, 4, and 5 knob.

That sounds an awful lot like a dodgy power connection. That's happened to a couple of my builds where the DC jack isn't quite secure, but it only happens on the tayda 2 prong ones, not on the boss style.

You really need to scrub that board clean with isopropyl alcohol. You've got metal flecks all over the place.

Beef up the 30pf. Crocodile clip to each leg and test different values since caps in parallel sum. Something like a 470pf would clamp down a lot more and depending on the chip might do the trick. No substitute for testing.

Maybe drill from the other side?

Here's how you do it. Splice a pot between the positive wire from the DC jack and it's place on the board. Wire from DC+ to lug 3 of pot. Wire from lug 2 goes to the DC in pad on the board. Lug 1 gets wired to ground through a resistor in series. The value of that resistor determines how much...

You'll need to drill out the hole to 11.5mm too.

One of the jacks is wired backwards. Switch the live and ground wires around.

Probably some of these bad boys: https://www.taydaelectronics.com/potentiometer-variable-resistors/slide-potentiometers.html

I'd go way bigger. Say a 1uf at c2 and 470n ish at c3. You might need to go to a 2.2uf at the input cap down the line but see how you go.

They all sound different and perform differently in circuits.

Ah yes you're right, there's some 10nf cap action going on. Still, I reckon that whole section can be streamlined. I wonder if something to do with esr in the signal path, like sticking a 220uf and 100n in the power section.

If you match the pinouts you've got an equivalent that will function in the circuit, but will most likely have different hfe characteristics. Best bet is to socket the q pads and roll transistors until you find a set you like. They come and go as manufacturers phase out obsolete models. But if...

You want at least double your intended voltage. So if that 10v is in the 18v line it will have a short life.

I was just looking at the schematic posted earlier on in this thread. What's with the parallel caps at the output? 2 x 1uf caps, one electrolytic, not bipolar, in parallel before the output so making 2uf total. The parallel layout seems odd. Could a 2.2uf electro do the same thing? There's...

The tone stack cuts volume. If you can put a gain recovery stage after it you can bring the volume back up. You'll notice on the big muff that's how they do it, there's a lbp1 circuit before the output to recover the loss. Incidentally I requested a tone stack and recovery stage PCB about a...

Are you guys buying the larger boxes and drilling them yourselves? Or is there a section somewhere in taydas site for drilled enclosures with 2 switches and pot arrangements?

I used 1/4w and just had 1 shoulder sticking up. It makes no difference.