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Thanks! That did the trick

Well looks like I got one of weird ones. With it plugged into a center negative 9V power supply, in continuity mode my DMM beeps when the input (+) is on the shorter leg.

Sorry forgot the photo.

I got a bunch of these innie jacks that only have two leads. Can anyone help me figure out which is the cathode and which is the anode? TIA

Maybe I will consider that. I believe 1 UF MLCCs are only available in class 2, so I guess which will sound better a tantalum or a class 2 MLCC?

I am working on sources parts for a Low Tide Mini and I'm having trouble finding a 1 uF (non-polar) capacitor less than 7 mm in height. Can I use this tantalum capacitor or can they only be used in place of electrolytics?

I just got a Low Tide Mini board that I'm planning to build and I put together this BOM based on what's printed on the board. Can someone verify this for me? Hopefully this will be useful for others. Resistors 100K 13x 10K 13x 12K 1x 16K 2x 1K 6x 1K8 2x 1M 2x 220K 3x 2K2 8x 2M 2x 330R 1x 3K3 5x...

Another happy Ryobi customer.

Thanks!

I'm putting a Chop Shop board together and the build doc calls for 2 50k 3362P type trimmers (3 leads) which I have but the board has 5 holes for each of the trimmers. Will mine work, or do I need to order something different?

This was supposed to be half of a double pedal but I ran into enough problems that I decided to simplify and put each in their own enclosure. I used BAS33 diodes and it think it sounds great. I really like it set on low drive stacked with a Tube screamer after. I have the mids dip switch on...

Thanks! The BOM also calls for 2x On-On SPDTs but it looks like one should be a DPDT. Is that right?

Nevermind for the 2N5457, I see the second one now. I did purchase MPSA12 instead of 13 will that work I should I get a replacement?

I am working on building an Octarock and I'm up to diodes. The BOM calls for BAT41 but the board is printed BAT46. I bought Bat41, will they work? Also the BOM has 2x 2N5457 but the board is printed with just one and one MPSA13, can I use 2N5457 for both?

Thanks, that looks perfect.

Yes, I contacted them, and they asked if I could clean the threads out. I figured I would check here to see if they are some tricks I didn't think of before pushing back.

That's my normal go to, but it's not working with this one. It looks like a lot of paint got in there.

I got a drilled and painted enclosure from Tayda that I just can't get the screws for the cover in. I tried cleaning the paint, but it goes pretty deep into the hole. Anyone have some tips on how to clear the threads?

Unfortunately, it looks like the board was damaged and that is copper from underneath showing. I'm willing to accept the board is toast. A new board is only $3, plus I'll have to order another switch, but the resistors I have on hand.

Boxed up the Achilles tonight. Works perfectly and sounds great. This is my first "transparent" drive and I can see a lot of possibilities. I'll write up a more detailed build report in a few days, after I have some more time with it. For the refractor, I'm going to order a new breakout board...