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So it's not just capacitance - it's electrical noise. So again - probably overthinking this - MLCC or film? If there is "less noise" in film why not (aside from cost and size) use them? And so what have a "too small" footprint? Or is MLCC vs film "electrical noise" not much of an issue in...

Thanks - yeah i have a few of those - they're 3.5mm wide vs the pcb footprint 2.5mm so it's a tight fit and there are two smooshed between some others that I would have to get creative with. Maybe one on the other side of the board. just wondering what the diff would be between MLCC and film -...

Right... why? Coming from HiFi you would never do this.... is it just packaging, cost or ???

There are a boatload of 1uF coupling caps in the Dark Rift Delay - why the small package footprint? It pretty much dictates ceramic - which I have but.... Is it better to try to cram a 1uF film in there? Or doesn't it matter?

Yes it's the protection diode - it "protects" the rest of the circuit if you plug it in with reverse +/-9VDC 1N5817 is fine

What about codeblocks? I've used it for C/C++ DLLs etc and it's pretty lightweight. Setup thread here: http://forums.codeblocks.org/index.php?topic=22758.0 Did a ton of stuff in the old VC++ but not much with the newer stuff

That was my thoughts - TL072 would be the most likely one to use as a "fake" and the ~ 8 mA (2x4mA in a dip8) would be a "rough" check. I actually remembered I had a stash I bought 10 years ago from Digikey so I'm pretty sure they're good ones.

Opinions on Military, MIL-PRF-39014, CKR05 ?? I know they aren't C0G or NP0 (BX temp coefficient) - I have thousands of these I inherited from when some of our RD labs shut down.

I think ChuckDBones posted awhile back that he had spotted some fake OPA2134 by measuring current - is this the geneal method to check for fakes?

That's odd - I'd suspect a typo - do you have a schematic? What is the 4"n" doing in the circuit?

You may want to check that "4n" value again - if it shows a round circle on the PCB (electrolytic) are you sure it's not 4u? (more commonly 4.7u or 4u7) a "n" would mean nanofarad and I've never seen an electrolytic that small. 4u (4u7) is a common electrolytic value.

I usually buy my 1590B's from LoveMySwitches - but they're not in stock and I'm placing a Tayda order anyway. Anyone have good (or bad) things to say about Tayda encolsures? I only build for myself and don't need new car type paint and finish - but something that looks decent and doesn't...

Or I could go with the "nature" (W20k) vs separate bass and treble.... not sure if thats better but isnt the original that way? Has anyone done the mod trick to convert linear to log? https://electro-music.com/forum/phpbb-files/pot_taper_amz_168.pdf Also - opinions on the clipping pot? How...

Tayda doesn't stock A25k (the treble) pots - B25k or A20k - yes. Which is better to swap or do you really need the A25k? SmallBeard does - but ordering 1 pot is going to nail me for shipping

since I dont see a pedalpcb version : https://aionelectronics.com/project/prism-boss-fa-1-fet-amp-pcb/

Dozens from Elecrow - no issues (I use KiCad).

Board is way too tight for film caps - *maybe* C11 but no way C9 so electro it is. Thanks for the info on the TL072. I've always found that to be the case that there isn't much if any diff, especially for guitar stuff.

Thanks! Simple mods - I'll be sure to socketed those (C10 and C19) for experimenting Did you use 2134's?

Any issues with using 2.2uF in place of the 1uF electrolytics in C9 and C11 of the Ember (Spark) Boost? Thought I had a bunch in stock...

+1 on the lumberg 1/4 jacks. They are the only ones that let me stuff some of these projects into 1590B with top jacks