Search results

Yeah size is a thing, especially if you're using the full-size bed and not just the compact bed. It's also a lot fussier than some other machines, so placement is a thing. My laser (settled for the F1 ultra) and CNC can happily run in the garage, and my 3D printers live in the workshop right...

Yup. My 7 year-old is my hardest worker, she usually prefers to be paid in candy.

Your diagram is incredibly hard to follow, but a couple things jumping out: you have a 1k from input to ground, that along with your 10k series resistor is going to strangle your signal quite a bit right off the bat before you even hit the switch you have redundant connections from your input...

Yeah speed was one of the big complaints from people that have actually printed before. The print quality is excellent, the machine is very user-friendly, but compared to any other UV printer out there it's slow as hell. It's probably the only machine I have that I don't sit and watch because...

It's actually a little slower than my old A4 UV printer, speed is not one of its strong suits. I would say the best speed you'll get is by lining them up close together and printing as many in a row as possible. Adding more printing in the X direction doesn't actually add much time because the...

I read in the news today that CBP opened up the customer portal to get in and apply for tariff refunds, so naturally I was excited because just from JLC I paid a total of about $4700 in IEEPA tariffs. The portal is open to direct importers, not consumers at large, so you have to be the one that...

That's fine for one-offs, but in bulk builds it really is nice to have pre-measured wires, especially if you can get them pre-stripped. I mostly have switched over to ribbons for everything, but I have a couple designs that I have to use wire for, so I really just need a bunch of the same length...

Thanks for the heads up, stuff like this comes up every now and then. I really need to set aside some time to just go through all of my BOMs one by one and 1) make sure all the parts that should be there are, 2) make sure there are no parts there that shouldn't be and 3) make sure all the links...

I would be in for some red vein, that's one tayda doesn't offer that I wish they did.

So I'll start by saying that Robert (PedalPCB) does not control the postal service, and once it's dropped off he has no way of affecting the speed of delivery. I will also say that USPS first class international is always slow, but it is also cheap, so comparing it to DHL shipping is not a fair...

I have a mostly functional build doc for Solaris, just missing drill template (I think it's the same as Lab Rat without the toggle switch) and the detailed build instructions (same build process as Lab Rat, nothing weird). I'll get that one out soon.

Tassie is correct (which is to be expected, I think he's built everything I make at this point).

And it can do that pretty well, but ask it to draw you a schematic and it will give you garbage.

Based on my experience, that's par for the course for AI tools. I've seen some AI tools give accurate technical explanations of circuits, but I've never seen an AI-generated schematic that is anywhere near coherent.

If your goal is to find out what a circuit sounds like, especially probing multiple places, AI is going to be zero help. This really is the sort of thing where breadboards are the best tool for the job.

That's what I assumed you meant, and my answer still stands. The input voltage is fed directly to the tube heater only, the plate voltage generated by the SMPS doesn't change, and that has much more impact on the tone than the heater voltage does.

The jury is out on that one. Some people swear they hear a difference, others swear they don't.

Hi/Lo is for overall output level, kind if like an output attenuator for if it's too hot. As for current I'll have to go back and measure it, I haven't plugged mine in recently, but I would recommend at least 600mA on a 9V supply. The more the better though.

This isn't specific to the gloss printing, but Tayda's UV prints don't go all the way to the edge. Their printable size is smaller than the actual enclosure face size.

Huh, I'll have to take a look at the link, sorry about that.