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Thanks, for the description, Chuck. I understand it perfectly now. I can honestly say that that "clip" knob is brilliant in concept and execution. It is truly the backbone of the circuit's versatility. The thought of it not being a controllable parameter in one's build would be a shame. You are...

Awesome all around. Really appreciate the extra effort with the vids. Subscribed ?

Oh yeah! That was one of the first pedals I built years ago on vero. I managed to house it in a 1590A which was ridiculous and unnecessary, lol. I sold it at the time but I should revisit it.

I built this on the recommendation of many here and I can honestly see why. It is a near do-everything fuzz. Dial the fuzz knob down a ways and it goes into drive/distortion territory. Dial it up for beautiful mayhem. It can handle rhythm chording and long sustained lead notes equally well...

Ok that is very helpful and informative. I really appreciate it!

Love those jewel lamp styles. I've always wanted to use em but couldn't justify the price. Cool hack. I found these bezels on Mouser. They are push in like the ones sold in the store here. Similar but different. The LED on the right is floating below the bezel. The LED on the left is nested up...

Link to build docs. Finished boxing this up. Everything works and it sounds KILLER! I built the 5 knob version from the build docs with separate treble, bass, and clip. Before I label it I had a question about the optional "Clip" control. All the way counter clockwise it has more of an old...

Just finished the Fuchsia Fuzz this was going into so I can confirm the above is the correct orientation. This fuzz is nuts! I can see why it's a favorite in the forum. It's awesome sounding.

Man, a literal butt-ton of sweet looking gear you all have. Just two for me. A 1984 Fender Super Champ from the Paul Rivera era when he worked at Fender. 2 channel 18w, 2 6v6's, with a EV Force 10" speaker and all handwired. I bought it from a cool used & vintage shop in SF who told me that it...

?Stoked. I subscribed to your YouTube channel by the way. Good stuff!

I just thought of this today. Thought I'd share. Am I overdoing it? Probably. 3M double sided tape on the BOM

If you have any DPDT stomp switches you could save that for another project and do what I did, like this

I'm prepping for my next build, the Fuchsia Fuzz, and was just wondering if I did this right as this was the first SMD component I soldered and I used an iron since I don't have a hot air device. Checking the pinout of the MMBF4393, I used the j201 side of the SOT23 Adapter. Is this correct...

Actually, on further inspection, you should definitely reflow some, if not all, your pot legs. They look a bit cold. My iron is set to around 750°F and I generally spend roughly 2 seconds on on each lug, sometimes more if I'm coming in at a weird angle. In practice, I always do one lug of one...

Fwiw, our technique looks clean and those are clear photos, so thanks. The post I made for the workflow tips was that same pedal. Regarding the possible short here's a tip that that I do on all builds. Specifically figure 18 and 22 from here...

All good tips, thanks. I've sprayed a few guitars with nitro rattle cans so this should be a lot easier than the ~20 coats for that process, haha. For that it worked best warmed up a bit, but it makes sense to be colder so it doesn't cure as fast, allowing the the hammer effect to move and set...

Those look perfect for what I'm going after! That answers all my questions. Off to Lowe's tomorrow. Thanks!

Does anyone here have experience using rattle can hammered/Hammertone style paints? This would be for a raw aluminum wah shell enclosure from Smallbear. If so, a few questions. Surface prep tips? Do I use primer first? Clear coat after? Any brand recommendations? Muchas gracias

I had a lot of practice with P-touch around age 13 onward.