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Same, I was looking for magic with the Mostortion. I built the PPCB version (Oxide) and when that didn't live up to the hype, I built the AionFX version from their full kit to make double sure all the parts where to spec. Both were just OK. I'm liking the CC-1 a lot, especially as a lower gain...

Here is my PDF, ready to go for Tayda's UV Printing Service: Download Link Here is the drill template I used: Drill Template Link It has color and white, but no gloss layer.

After falling in love with the Chop Shop and making it my main overdrive for the past few weeks, I was “forced” to find another overdrive to pair it with, providing me with a perfect excuse to look through the pcb stack and find something new to build. This one appealed to me because I like my...

No, just a UV Print from Tayda.

You don’t side power? All the cool kids are doing it.

Link to the PDF This has an RDG_WHITE layer and a CMYK layer, but no gloss and came out well using Tayda's UV printing service. It was designed around the same Davies 1400 knobs that the Barbershop uses which range from 15mm to 17mm in diameter. Here is a link to the Tayda drill template I...

No tantalum as far as I am aware. Mostly Wima caps and a ceramic disc.

I’ve heard lots of good things about this and the circuit seemed different from everything else I’ve built which piqued my curiosity and bumped this one up the build queue. Build: Overall, a fun build. The layout is nice and I had a bunch of JFETs for scavenging in a build I could never get...

Here is a UV print pdf for the fumble boost. It has CMYK color and RDG_White, but no gloss. It should be ready to upload to Tayda and/or test with their artwork analyzer tool. PDF Link And the drill template to match the knob indicators...

1. I populate the board in the usual order of component height: resistors, diodes, IC sockets, film caps, electrolytic caps, etc... and do a visual inspection for any missed or cold solders. 2. I solder the wires to the power jack outside of the case then put the nut over the wires and secure...

This build was a nice change of pace from my last one, which was a Cornish clone with a packed pcb. This one has just a few parts and came together quickly. I wanted to try this one badly enough that I was willing to try soldering an SMD transistor for the first time. It was not as scary as I...

After playing it for a while at a bunch of different settings, it seems like Cornish wanted to make the pedal cleaner than the original Overdriver. I haven't tried a true Overdriver or direct circuit clone, but the demos of the Overdriver I have seen show it having more clipping than the ST-2...

My main overdrive sound is the green side of a Protein, and then using the blue side if I want a louder, more open tone or using a Kliche in front of it for a more compressed, fatter sound. I haven't built a pedal in a while so I figured I'd audition some new builds to see if anything tops the...

It doesn't look like Inkscape supports moving the origin, unfortunately, so I am stuck with recalculating/measuring. Also, I can't find a drill template on the forum for the Chauffeur so I'd have to measure that from the build documentation anyway.

I'm going to order a few UV printed pedals from Tayda for the first time and was hoping I could get a check on my setup. I've read through Steggo's and Tayda's guides so I have a handle on the various layers and concerns with setting the right color codes. For the 125b pedals I was able to find...

The values of the components around that section look correct, but your C8 looks lightly melted. I think that cap is acting as a low pass filter and if it’s not working properly it might be letting more high end hiss into the signal. It doesn’t look too badly singed (I’ve certainly done worse to...

I ordered some more transistors with values closer to the ones in the build documentation. I got two OC140s with these values Q1: hFE=94 Ic=1.0mA Ube=132mV ICE0=28uA ICEs=12uA Q2: hFE=173 Ic=1.7mA Ube=133mV ICE0=37uA ICEs=14uA but it was very gated and fuzzy at all bias/guitar volume levels.

That would explain it. If anyone is interested in trading some Fuzz Face PNP transistors for some good NPN transistors please let me know ;)

My new transistors arrived: Q1: 2N404 hFE=109 Ic=1.2mA Ube=102mV ICE0=54uA ICEs=8uA and Q2: 2N1309 hFE=333 Ic=3.7mA Ube=185mV ICE0=0.24m ICEs=8uA When socketed, with the bias pot at noon, I can only get the trim pot to 2.2V or so and there's no fuzz whatsoever, regardless of trim/bias pot...

Yeah, I bought four hoping at least two would be close but none of them ended up being suitable. I’ve ordered a set of new transistors that’ve been pre-measured to have good values for fuzz face style pedals. I will swap those in when they arrive and report back.