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I haven't had a ton of time to build but I got a special request for a pedal so I went to order parts and saw this and came right here haha. It was the final push I needed to get the actual drill pattern I wanted with a larger DC jack hole for my preferred style. I'm just happy the cheaper...

I would have never thought two would be better than one for low power. I really enjoy reading about your ultra low power designs, as it's something I never do anything with or think about for my own designs.

I think I see 4 transistors, perhaps labeled on the pcb as bc107 and 2n5088. I saw it mentioned when I googled it that it was muff fuzz inspired, but not sure how much.

Not to derail too much, but I was curious about this so I looked at the shcematic, and it turns out it's tweaked xotic BB preamp, which is a tube screamer with a fixed tone control and then a two band EQ after. I can totally see how someone saying its a BB preamp would lead to it being confused...

+1 on cabs making a world of difference. I have a small fender champ clone, and i run it into a 2x12 or 4x12 of celestion v30s and it makes it quite a surprisingly good pedal platform.

and the enclosure masking service right below it is interesting as well!

These use vactrols right? I'd check if you are getting a changing voltage on the LED side and changing resistance on the LDR side just as a guess.

7662B can take 15v and has the boost frequency, ive used those on klones before.

pretty sure that will make your output impedance worse, but pretty much same volume since its just a voltage divider so its about ratio, id try to lower r15 to 2.4k for unity

The factory schematic shows 47k there, which I would think is correct for balancing the de-emphasis filter with the pre-emphasis filter that comes before it. The original CE-2 is known to have a volume difference, but its usually an increase. I'd check to make sure you have a good signal level...

I assume EasyEDA would be available for you since its browser based. I use that and found it pretty intuitive. It's nice that its connected to JLCPCB so you can port the boards straight over after you design them and get a little discount.

Just to clarify, do you have no sound at all or is there still sound in bypass and only the effect isn't working?

Looks like 2.2m 1% to me

The internal switch just jumpers (or doesn't jumper) one of the diodes. If you don't put it in you'll be getting the symmetrical clipping, jumpering them should give you asymmetrical, you could use a bit of wire to see what you prefer before you box it up.

Have you seen these before? I think the left brain does sort of what you're talking about here, albeit with a ton of options.

I think you're talking about the 47pF one, with everything else the same and the 47pF added it just rolls off some high treble with about a 2dB bump at 860hz in the case of my schematic.

When you design the circuit board, you just put the component on the under side and it flips the connections appropriately. I believe you want pins 2&3 together and not 1&2 for a gain pot like this. Below is how it looks in the software I use to design my PCBs. Pin 1 is on the right side here...

I'm pretty sure there was a change over at some point for their enclosures because i had a bag of screws that only fit a 1590bb i got 2018/2019 and not my more recent 125Bs.

I do this too, and a nice thing with this is if you use JLC to assemble your boards for you, you can use the EasyEDA component search to find "basic parts" which incur no extra fee, so I just ordered 10 boards today, assembled minus pots, LED and one filter cap and it was only $16.24 BEFORE my...

This is the result of what I've been tweaking for a bit here. I've found I prefer running a pot as a series resistor out front for gain instead of using the standard arrangement. hFE for both 3904 in my current proto measured 213 using one of those chinese test any component testers.