1590B Top Mounted Jacks

MichaelW

MichaelW

Well-known member
@benny_profane

There's a couple of old threads where this was done up in a lot nicer template but this is how I do my 1590B top mount jacks.

Couple of considerations:

1) I've only used these measurements for Switchcraft mono jacks and Rean Neutrik mono jacks. They "should" work with other types but these are the only jacks I used for 1590B and 1590BB enclosures. Also, I've only used the small Lumberg style mini DC jacks (although I use an off brand from Amazon, not real Lumbergs)

2) Generally, MOST of the boards that measure 1.95" in width (or 2') will work with this method, however, note the LENGTH of the board as well, some boards are longer than others and may not leave enough room for the footswitch without some serious gymnastics (See my Kings Hand V2 build of an example where I got into trouble and had to tap dance my way out of it)

So to start with I'll use the PPCB drill punch template jig where possible, which is most of the time.
I start by overlaying the jig on the drill template page in the build docs to figure out which holes to use. Then I move the WHOLE jig down from the top of the enclosure by 9mm. This gives you the clearance to angle the jacks in after the pots are mounted.

IMG_3276.JPG

Next, I'll move the drill punch jig back up so it lines up with the bottom of the enclosure and mark the footswitch and status LED holes.
IMG_3277.JPG

For the top jacks these are my measurements.
From the bottom lip of the enclosure without the back lid on, I come up 11mm.
IMG_3278.JPG

Then from each side ***At the 11mm mark*** I'll come in 17mm. (Keep in mind the slope of the enclosure, the 17mm measurements have to be right at the 11mm mark)
IMG_3279.JPG

Use some kind of a flat edge to place your ruler against to you are measuring to the flat of the enclosure and not the radius. The radii are different from brand to brand of enclosure and will mess you up. After measuring in from both edges 17mm to locate your jacks it "should" leave you 25mm in between the jacks. Bisect this number and mark it.
IMG_3280.JPG

This should give you the center of the enclosure from side to side.
Then I move this towards the top face of the enclosure 6mm. This is your DC jack location.
IMG_3281.JPG

And there you have it. You have your top mounted jacks for "most" 2 inch or less width PPCB boards.
IMG_3282.JPG

Sorry for the crude presentation, I know there are super smart people here that can do layouts, CAD drawings, etc. I am not one of them:)
 
neither am I I happily use the sketch like things in build docs or this 3d printed jobber I found 2 years ago, got 1 for 125b and another for 1590b BB's I can just see what room I have left and after two 1590a builds... not happening unless it's like an a/b switch that swaps wire paths, no electronics inside! but that looks like a good start for somebody to practice.
 
MichaelW said:
@benny_profane

There's a couple of old threads where this was done up in a lot nicer template but this is how I do my 1590B top mount jacks.

Couple of considerations:

1) I've only used these measurements for Switchcraft mono jacks and Rean Neutrik mono jacks. They "should" work with other types but these are the only jacks I used for 1590B and 1590BB enclosures. Also, I've only used the small Lumberg style mini DC jacks (although I use an off brand from Amazon, not real Lumbergs)

2) Generally, MOST of the boards that measure 1.95" in width (or 2') will work with this method, however, note the LENGTH of the board as well, some boards are longer than others and may not leave enough room for the footswitch without some serious gymnastics (See my Kings Hand V2 build of an example where I got into trouble and had to tap dance my way out of it)

So to start with I'll use the PPCB drill punch template jig where possible, which is most of the time.
I start by overlaying the jig on the drill template page in the build docs to figure out which holes to use. Then I move the WHOLE jig down from the top of the enclosure by 9mm. This gives you the clearance to angle the jacks in after the pots are mounted.

View attachment 29948

Next, I'll move the drill punch jig back up so it lines up with the bottom of the enclosure and mark the footswitch and status LED holes.
View attachment 29950

For the top jacks these are my measurements.
From the bottom lip of the enclosure without the back lid on, I come up 11mm.
View attachment 29951

Then from each side ***At the 11mm mark*** I'll come in 17mm. (Keep in mind the slope of the enclosure, the 17mm measurements have to be right at the 11mm mark)
View attachment 29952

Use some kind of a flat edge to place your ruler against to you are measuring to the flat of the enclosure and not the radius. The radii are different from brand to brand of enclosure and will mess you up. After measuring in from both edges 17mm to locate your jacks it "should" leave you 25mm in between the jacks. Bisect this number and mark it.
View attachment 29953

This should give you the center of the enclosure from side to side.
Then I move this towards the top face of the enclosure 6mm. This is your DC jack location.
View attachment 29954

And there you have it. You have your top mounted jacks for "most" 2 inch or less width PPCB boards.
View attachment 29955

Sorry for the crude presentation, I know there are super smart people here that can do layouts, CAD drawings, etc. I am not one of them:)
Click to expand...
You remind me of Jovi Bon Kenobi, and that is a huge compliment. His posts were epically helpful when I stumbled on this forum a few years ago. He hasn’t posted in forever but he was always trying help the new people that trickle in get started. Keep it up dude.
 
Dan0h said:
You remind me of Jovi Bon Kenobi, and that is a huge compliment. His posts were epically helpful when I stumbled on this forum a few years ago. He hasn’t posted in forever but he was always trying help the new people that trickle in get started. Keep it up dude.
Click to expand...
Anybody know what happened to him? I found his posts all over this forum when I joined, including his guides, but he was already gone.
 
andare said:
Anybody know what happened to him? I found his posts all over this forum when I joined, including his guides, but he was already gone.
Click to expand...
The last thing I remember him saying was he had lost his job due to Covid and was putting pedals on hold. I hope he is doing well. Maybe he will pop back on some day.
 
It works! My marks for the jack holes were 28mm apart after drawing them 17mm from the sides (at 11mm from the bottom edge) so I found the midline and drilled them 12.5mm from it. A small user error and it's a tight fit but they do fit. It'll be better when I put a lock washer in there.

Small DC jack (IIRC it's a Lumberg) and no name enclosed jacks.

Thank you @MichaelW

20220820_180012.jpg 20220820_180100.jpg 20220820_180212.jpg
 
Are you able to use those jacks? I've only ever been able to use the closed frame jacks on one build on a 1590B, and that's the Celsius boost. On all the others it runs into the pots. I usually use Switchcraft open frame jacks so I can snuggle them in above the pots.
 
MichaelW said:
Are you able to use those jacks? I've only ever been able to use the closed frame jacks on one build on a 1590B, and that's the Celsius boost. On all the others it runs into the pots. I usually use Switchcraft open frame jacks so I can snuggle them in above the pots.
Click to expand...
I'm going to use this enclosure for a strip board project I think, a one knob fuzz probably. Or maybe a Squidward.

The open frame jacks seem to fit also.
 
lcipher3 said:
All my builds are 1590B top mounted lumberg jacks. Pots can fit (just barely) under the jack


View attachment 30990View attachment 30991
Click to expand...
@lcipher3, I just took a closer and see what you did to fit that Convex board into a 1590B.

Whoa, that's really next level stuff, very ingenious, is that aluminum bar stock you used? Are you using those plates as part of the overall graphics/look of the pedal?

Edit: I'd love see a gut shot of your Ember Boost if you have it somewhere and see how you fit that into a 1590B.
 
MichaelW said:
@lcipher3, I just took a closer and see what you did to fit that Convex board into a 1590B.

Whoa, that's really next level stuff, very ingenious, is that aluminum bar stock you used? Are you using those plates as part of the overall graphics/look of the pedal?

Edit: I'd love see a gut shot of your Ember Boost if you have it somewhere and see how you fit that into a 1590B.
Click to expand...


yeah the aluminum is ~0.040" thick and I do the iron on transfer method for the lettering. Some of the boards are too wide - in the Ember I shaved the inside with a drill press mounted sanding drum. Or I sometimes have to cut the sides and put on a silver panel. All part of the "look" ;)

Sometimes with a 4 knob layout I have to bend in the pots as they are a little to wide in spacing. You can see in the Ember back shot the pots are twisted inboard away from the sides. On some of the pedals with a lot of controls I'll go freestyle and move the controls and wire back to the pcb so I can put the controls were it all fits. Lost of tweaking. But I love the smaller size.

It's a tight fit - the pots can't use the "dust caps" and fit under the jacks - I have black tape over the backs. Nothing touches, and I use shrink sleeving just in case.

I'd love it if there was some SMD stuff and the boards were a smidge smaller. But this works too.




ember.jpg
 
Last edited:
lcipher3 said:
yeah the aluminum is ~0.040" thick and I do the iron on transfer method for the lettering. Some of the boards are too wide - in the Ember I shaved the inside with a drill press mounted sanding drum. Or I sometimes have to cut the sides and put on a silver panel. All part of the "look" ;)

Sometimes with a 4 knob layout I have to bend in the pots as they are a little to wide in spacing. Lost of tweaking. But I love the smaller size.

It's a tight fit - the pots can use the "dust caps" - I have black tape over the backs. Nothing touches, and I use shrink sleeving just in case.

I'd love it if there was some SMD stuff and the boards were a smidge smaller. But this works too.




View attachment 31078
Click to expand...
Ok, this just give me more questions hahahah, are those Ge diodes in place of the 914's in your Ember? That's interesting.....I socketed mine, might have to give that a try.....
 
MichaelW said:
Ok, this just give me more questions hahahah, are those Ge diodes in place of the 914's in your Ember? That's interesting.....I socketed mine, might have to give that a try.....
Click to expand...

yeah - REALLY old ones.... have no idea if I can hear the difference (haven't tried the standard yet).
 
I've shaved a few 1590A enclosures to get a PCB to fit.

I've also shone light through PCBs to determine just how much of the edge I can shave off the board before hitting a trace. Ground plane is no biggie, but it sucks when you sand through to a trace. Cyanoacrylate glue built up over the exposed trace, then DMM test to see if there's still continuity of the trace and non-continuity with the edge covered in glue...


There is one more thing...
A 1590B is 60mm wide, a 1590N1 is only 66mm wide, but a 1590TRPB starts at 61.5mm and widens to 79mm!

The TRPB is the same length as a 1590B at 112mm. N1 is 121mm long.


So, for a lot of builds, I like the TRPB. Especially if you need dual footswitches...

hammond-1590trpbyl-01.jpg


PS: Another bonus — depth of a TRPB is 35mm, same as N1 vs B's 27mm.
 
Last edited:
Feral Feline said:
I've shaved a few 1590A enclosures to get a PCB to fit.

I've also shone light through PCBs to determine just how much of the edge I can shave off the board before hitting a trace. Ground plane is no biggie, but it sucks when you sand through to a trace. Cyanoacrylate glue built up over the exposed trace, then DMM test to see if there's still continuity of the trace and non-continuity with the edge covered in glue...


There is one more thing...
A 1590B is 60mm wide, a 1590N1 is only 66mm wide, but a 1590TRPB starts at 61.5mm and widens to 79mm!

The TRPB is the same length as a 1590B at 112mm. N1 is 121mm long.


So, for a lot of builds, I like the TRPB. Especially if you need dual footswitches...

hammond-1590trpbyl-01.jpg


PS: Another bonus — depth of a TRPB is 35mm, same as N1 vs B's 27mm.
Click to expand...
Yah but then when you put these on a pedalboard you'll have to put every other one upside down........ :LOL:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

F
1590B Top Jack Template
Replies
2
Views
137
Robert
Robert
M
Seabed Delay #2 and #3 (Mad Professor Deep Blue Delay)
Replies
0
Views
118
MattG
M
VanWhy
1590B Templates
Replies
10
Views
932
Laundryroom David
Laundryroom David
F
Parasit Studio 1985
Replies
3
Views
797
fontoponto
F
mdc
1590BB top mount jacks
Replies
7
Views
552
Feral Feline
Feral Feline
Back
Top