1590B Top Mounted Jacks

[MichaelW]

Anyone have experience doing this with either the innie or outie cheapies from Tayda? I've got a handful of 1590b's looking for a home.

DC Power Jack 2.1mm Enclosed Frame With Switch

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www.taydaelectronics.com

DC Power Jack 2.1mm Enclosed Frame With Switch External

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www.taydaelectronics.com

I don't think you're gonna have enough room. There's just enough space to squeak in one of the mini DC jack.s These look like the bigger ones, just outie.....

 

[dawson]

Here's another solution using a 3D printer (AKA: cheating.)

MBP forum

 

[RetiredUnit1]

@benny_profane

There's a couple of old threads where this was done up in a lot nicer template but this is how I do my 1590B top mount jacks.

Couple of considerations:

1) I've only used these measurements for Switchcraft mono jacks and Rean Neutrik mono jacks. They "should" work with other types but these are the only jacks I used for 1590B and 1590BB enclosures. Also, I've only used the small Lumberg style mini DC jacks (although I use an off brand from Amazon, not real Lumbergs)

2) Generally, MOST of the boards that measure 1.95" in width (or 2') will work with this method, however, note the LENGTH of the board as well, some boards are longer than others and may not leave enough room for the footswitch without some serious gymnastics (See my Kings Hand V2 build of an example where I got into trouble and had to tap dance my way out of it)

So to start with I'll use the PPCB drill punch template jig where possible, which is most of the time.
I start by overlaying the jig on the drill template page in the build docs to figure out which holes to use. Then I move the WHOLE jig down from the top of the enclosure by 9mm. This gives you the clearance to angle the jacks in after the pots are mounted.

View attachment 29948

Next, I'll move the drill punch jig back up so it lines up with the bottom of the enclosure and mark the footswitch and status LED holes.
View attachment 29950

For the top jacks these are my measurements.
From the bottom lip of the enclosure without the back lid on, I come up 11mm.
View attachment 29951

Then from each side ***At the 11mm mark*** I'll come in 17mm. (Keep in mind the slope of the enclosure, the 17mm measurements have to be right at the 11mm mark)
View attachment 29952

Use some kind of a flat edge to place your ruler against to you are measuring to the flat of the enclosure and not the radius. The radii are different from brand to brand of enclosure and will mess you up. After measuring in from both edges 17mm to locate your jacks it "should" leave you 25mm in between the jacks. Bisect this number and mark it.
View attachment 29953

This should give you the center of the enclosure from side to side.
Then I move this towards the top face of the enclosure 6mm. This is your DC jack location.
View attachment 29954

And there you have it. You have your top mounted jacks for "most" 2 inch or less width PPCB boards.
View attachment 29955

Sorry for the crude presentation, I know there are super smart people here that can do layouts, CAD drawings, etc. I am not one of them

I use visio, which is 2d. I've been using it since it was a flowchart drawing program, version 1. I used to be a programmer. I just mockup the parts in three views, and compare them virtually, then draw in visio, print, use ELMER'S glue stick (works FANTASTIC) to glue the printout to the box and start drilling.
I use visio to draw amplifier layouts too....

 

[MichaelW]

I use visio, which is 2d. I've been using it since it was a flowchart drawing program, version 1. I used to be a programmer. I just mockup the parts in three views, and compare them virtually, then draw in visio, print, use ELMER'S glue stick (works FANTASTIC) to glue the printout to the box and start drilling.
I use visio to draw amplifier layouts too....

View attachment 35681

I used Visio a lot a few decades ago. But somehow, I can't translate it into pedals or guitar gear heh. Old school for me, with masking tape and a ruler.....

 

[RetiredUnit1]

Anyone have experience doing this with either the innie or outie cheapies from Tayda? I've got a handful of 1590b's looking for a home.

DC Power Jack 2.1mm Enclosed Frame With Switch

Get It Fast - Same Day Shipping

www.taydaelectronics.com

DC Power Jack 2.1mm Enclosed Frame With Switch External

Get It Fast - Same Day Shipping

www.taydaelectronics.com

Funny you should mention this, I just received today a real DC cliff jack and compared with the tayda version of the DC cliff jack. They're pretty close. If I got them mixed up I don't think I'd be able to find the real Cliff! Slightly darker board, that's about it. The threads looked cleaner as well, it's kind of hard to get the Tayda's started without glasses.

I like these because you can mount the jack before putting the guts into the box, making testing easier.

 

[MichaelW]

Here's another solution using a 3D printer (AKA: cheating.)

MBP forum

Yah I saw that post before, ingenious little idea. Makes me wonder if you could make one thick enough to use a "long" style jack and set it way back for top mounts on a..............1590A....

 

[daeg]

Does anyone have a Tayda Drill Template for 1590B Top Mount?

Ideally there would be 2 Pots on there as well.

 

[SillyOctpuss]

I use an off brand from Amazon, not real Lumbergs

 

[spi]

@MichaelW Thanks for this thread. This is my first attempt at top jacks on a 1590B, and I followed your measurements.

My drilling is sketchy, so even if I measure twice, punch hole, etc. I often get the drill bit in slightly off target, so was worried about this one. But it turned out great. It is a tight fit though, not much room for my normal sloppiness.

The grey one came out perfect! On the white one, the jacks are wee bit closer to power jack, and the jacks didn't quite fit. I was about to get the dremel out, but thought I'd try different brand jacks I had on hand, and the 4th set I tried just worked.

 

[MichaelW]

@MichaelW Thanks for this thread. This is my first attempt at top jacks on a 1590B, and I followed your measurements.

My drilling is sketchy, so even if I measure twice, punch hole, etc. I often get the drill bit in slightly off target, so was worried about this one. But it turned out great. It is a tight fit though, not much room for my normal sloppiness.

The grey one came out perfect! On the white one, the jacks are wee bit closer to power jack, and the jacks didn't quite fit. I was about to get the dremel out, but thought I'd try different brand jacks I had on hand, and the 4th set I tried just worked.

View attachment 50309

Looks great! I've moved away from the open frame jacks and changed to these. Give you more wiggle room.
I have new measurements for these. Let know if you want them.

 

[giovanni]

Looks great! I've moved away from the open frame jacks and changed to these. Give you more wiggle room.
I have new measurements for these. Let know if you want them.

Those are cool! I just got a few Lumberg for 1590B builds but I’m gonna need more. I wonder if Mouser has these.

 

[benny_profane]

Looks great! I've moved away from the open frame jacks and changed to these. Give you more wiggle room.
I have new measurements for these. Let know if you want them.

Of course!