Another Way to Test JFETs

Chuck D. Bones

Circuit Wizard
I bought some BF245C JFETs on eBay, so naturally I needed to test them to make sure they were legit. Fairchild (now On Semi) sorts the BF244 and BF245 JFETs by Vgs at Id = 200μA. A-suffix parts have Vgs between -0.4V and =2.2V. B-suffix is between -1.6V and -3.8V. C-suffix is between -3.2V and -7.5V. I ordered C-suffix parts. The mfgr also sorts by Idss. I pulled 10 parts from a bag of 100 and measured Idss and Vgs. The measured Idss fell into the B-suffix range, however the Vgs measurements fell into the A-suffix range. So it's possible that these aren't BF245s at all. But they are functional. I built this circuit on a breadboard.

JFET tester 2.png

Q1 is the UUT (Unit Under Test). U1 can be any JFET opamp. U2 is a 10V reference. I used a REF01 because I had one. An LT1021-10 would also be a good option. In a pinch, we could use a 78L09 and change R4 to 45.3K (or use a pair of 91K resistors in parallel). U1 automatically adjusts Q1's gate so that the voltage on the source is equal to the reference voltage (10V). 10V thru 49.9K is 200μA. Source and drain current are the same in a JFET since the gate current is essentially zero. We connect a DMM to the Vg (red lead) and the Vs (black lead) points in the circuit and read Vgs. I used a 10V reference so that the opamp would have enough range to achieve Vgs up to -8.0V. The circuit is powered by 24V, which gets us to Vds = 14V or so; close enough to the datasheet conditions of Vds = 15V. R1 & R2 protect the JFET from mis-connections. R3 and C2 ensure the circuit doesn't oscillate or act as a radio receiver.

I reported the test results to the seller and they promptly issued a refund and an apology and blamed their supplier. Whether they knew they were selling counterfeit parts is unclear, but they should have known. I'd say I won't be buying from them again, but since many of these vendors change their names frequently, I may never know if the next guy selling JFETs is this same guy or not. Lucky for me, EG put some JFETs on sale (2N5638) that have the Vgs,off range I want for use as source followers. I'll find some use for the bogus JFETs, although it is damned inconvenient to have parts that are mis-marked.

In any case, this is a handy rig for testing and matching JFETs.
 
Good question! This tester and the Keen tester do pretty much the same thing.

My tester uses a precision reference to set the drain current. I run Vcc and the reference at higher voltages because I need a large Vgs range for the JFETs I'm testing.

The Keen tester uses the power supply as a reference to set the drain current. If the power supply fluctuates, then the measured Vgs fluctuates. Probably not a big deal, as long as your power source is stable. Rset can be selected for any (practical) Id we desire. Note that the 10K / 10K voltage divider can be any ratio, as long as the JFET is biased into the linear region.

Vs can be measured at the JFET source, or at the opamp's + input. Ideally they should be the same. Since the opamp's offset voltage could be a few mV, measuring Vs at the JFET source is slightly more accurate. The difference is so small as to be insignificant. As always, use a quality DMM.
 
What's the input impedance on those meters?
Looks like they resolve to 10mV at best.
Some reviews complain about poor accuracy & fragile wires. You really need a good meter for test JFETs, not a battery monitor which is what these are.
 
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Wires are power, GND and the voltage to be tested.

4V to 30V is misleading. It only references the Max voltage you can test, limited by the supply voltage available - up to 30V. I'm pretty sure it will give you a 3-digit readout, moving the decimal if the measurement is under 10V, but I need to test that again.
 
Assuming that Red is power, black is ground and white is input, the most straightforward method is to power up your 3-digit meter and connect a 1Meg pot between the red and white leads. Do not connect the pot's 3rd terminal to anything. Set the pot to minimum resistance and record the reading on the meter. Now rotate the pot until the reading is 1/2 of the reading you just recorded. Disconnect the pot and measure its resistance with a DMM. That resistance is the input impedance of the 3-digit meter. If you can't get down the 1/2 voltage with the 1Meg pot maxed, then record the voltage you get wth the pot at max resistance and then we can run the voltage divider calculation backwards to get the input impedance. You will still need to measure the 1Meg pot because pots have a loose tolerance.
 
This is pretty slick. I recently picked up some cheap ($2 each) DC meters on Amazon. You think it'd be worthwhile to build a project to test 4+ JFETs at a time?
OK. Do not buy those meters. They're crap. Tested against my Fluke and their readings are about two diode drops off from from my DMM and inconsistent. Didn't bother to move on to testing the impedance after that.
 
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