Basic Workflow Tips for Building a PedalPCB

Aye, but...
The problem is, bedroom / workbench volumes don't tell you what that effect is like at stage volume in the signal chain within the band mix...
I'm pro-boxing them all up, for now, but given the amount of botched drill-jobs combined with the build backlog... Maybe I should sell all my PCBs and go back to just breadboarding.
 
Feral Feline said:
Aye, but...
The problem is, bedroom / workbench volumes don't tell you what that effect is like at stage volume in the signal chain within the band mix...
I'm pro-boxing them all up, for now, but given the amount of botched drill-jobs combined with the build backlog... Maybe I should sell all my PCBs and go back to just breadboarding.
Click to expand...
I like to just box them all. Even the ones I don’t like. It’s just part of the fun of building to me. A lot of my builds are perfectly working pedals that just sit on a shelf most of the time. I scratched that itch.
 
Feral Feline said:
Aye, but...
The problem is, bedroom / workbench volumes don't tell you what that effect is like at stage volume in the signal chain within the band mix...
I'm pro-boxing them all up, for now, but given the amount of botched drill-jobs combined with the build backlog... Maybe I should sell all my PCBs and go back to just breadboarding.
Click to expand...
Maybe an idea for you as well: I am thinking of doing all my pedals eurorack style, and fix the guts to a 2mm aluminum sheet faceplate and screw that on a box (or, in your case, old, fucked up boxes). The power and jack holes can be standardized, so one sturdy template should be helpful in getting a uniformed style going.

Origin Effects uses this faceplate-on-a-box thing to0, though the PCBs are mounted onto the box as well. Classy as all hell.

1000063465.jpg
 
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zgrav said:
I just use a 9v wall wart that I used to use for some pedals. Ideally you will want to have something at the voltage that matches what you plan to use for the pedal you are building.
Click to expand...
Sorry for the long time in reply.... Most of my wall warts do not have ground, sometimes that introduces issues.
 
tegendemuur said:
Maybe an idea for you as well: I am thinking of doing all my pedals eurorack style, and fix the guts to a 2mm aluminum sheet faceplate and screw that on a box (or, in your case, old, fucked up boxes). The power and jack holes can be standardized, so one sturdy template should be helpful in getting a uniformed style going.

Origin Effects uses this faceplate-on-a-box thing to0, though the PCBs are mounted onto the box as well. Classy as all hell.

View attachment 77524
Click to expand...

The more switches and pots are exposed, the more dirt and grime gets in. It's good to play but once the pedal is in use it's likely they're not going to change. I'd prefer a removable metal covers for the toggle switches and pots.
 
I always find the led, depending on location, and dc jack to be the most difficult because it’s just so tight in there by then and the jack HAS to be in the enclosure while soldering. Anyone know of a good alternative jack that can be soldered outside of the enclosure and then inserted inside? I think I may try doing the jack and led before the switch and outputs jacks next. That little bit of extra room will help. Thanks for putting this together.
 
bluedmc777 said:
I always find the led, depending on location, and dc jack to be the most difficult because it’s just so tight in there by then and the jack HAS to be in the enclosure while soldering. Anyone know of a good alternative jack that can be soldered outside of the enclosure and then inserted inside? I think I may try doing the jack and led before the switch and outputs jacks next. That little bit of extra room will help. Thanks for putting this together.
Click to expand...
After my first build, I switched over to a DC Jack that mounts from the inside for this reason. I am using the Same Sky PJ-064, and there is also the PJ-011, which is slightly larger (but more common). I suspect there is a Lumberg version and the PJ-011 style is ubiquitous on AliExpress.

Similarly, I use an LED bezel from
Tayda, into which the LED is just press fit from the inside.
 
bluedmc777 said:
I always find the led, depending on location, and dc jack to be the most difficult because it’s just so tight in there by then and the jack HAS to be in the enclosure while soldering. Anyone know of a good alternative jack that can be soldered outside of the enclosure and then inserted inside? I think I may try doing the jack and led before the switch and outputs jacks next. That little bit of extra room will help. Thanks for putting this together.
Click to expand...
Most probably find this to be an unnecessary introduction of additional "stuff" in the box, but I love using micro JST connectors with DC jacks. They're pretty tiny. The wire can be kinda flimsy, so solder securely and use some heat shrink if you're gonna try that.

71FMmtsbtgL._AC_SL1500_.jpg
 
Thanks for the replies. I figured more would chime in on this. @Ginsly I’ve considered using those for several things. I’ve also considered the pre wired led/bezel that can be had very cheap.
 
Don't use those metal DC jacks on a metal enclosure unless you are using center positive power.
Otherwise you will short you power to the enclosure.
 
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