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Vild

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I had no issues with the boards/parts list. Works great. I would say it's recommended use is as a presence and depth control for amps that don't have one or like a low and high freq shelf eq. (Aka slam mode for the metal guys ;D)

Some random tips and things I learned from building this recent bunch of pedals:
Get your tl072's from ppcb cuz they are cheaper than tayda for example. So many boards use them.
The sand texture tayda enclosures are like phase 90s. Seems like a nice and durable coating.

Edit: it might not be Daisywell switches fault, might be my amps fx loop instead.
Dailywell switches pop loudly (and have a weird click so I don't recommend wasting your money by paying extra for those. Good thing I bought a mix of different ones to try out. The click happens right at the bottom of the range and is very firm which theoretically is good if it weren't for the pop. Also withstands plenty of heat while soldering the breakout board to it etc.. (still needs a break cuz it gets warm, but the pins don't get loose and then the switch is wasted like the cheap blues can for example)
 

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I realize many holes aren't filled with solder all the way through. Maybe I should reflow just in case it fixes the pop some how? But considering it's working well otherwise idk if it's really a soldering issue. Will reflow real quick for shits and gigs.
 
Can confirm that reflowing didn't help anything. It was already good solder joints. So I still blame the dailywell switch.
 

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Tap around the pcb with it engaged with something nonconductive (chopstick test). Particularly the caps. May have a microphonic component.
Don't forget the led. I think @jimilee had a tayda led cause pop years ago on the mbp forum iirc.
Switch shouldn't be causing a large pop unless there's DC on it(shouldn't be) if a pulldown is used
 
jwin615 said:
Tap around the pcb with it engaged with something nonconductive (chopstick test). Particularly the caps. May have a microphonic component.
Don't forget the led. I think @jimilee had a tayda led cause pop years ago on the mbp forum iirc.
Switch shouldn't be causing a large pop unless there's DC on it(shouldn't be) if a pulldown is used
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tip! I did your test and nothing is microphonic thankfully. Also the pop isn't bad into my interface instead of the amp.
Now that I'm investigating the issue I am using the pedal in the fx loop of my amp though.
I tried the EUNA clone I just built also with a Dailywell switch and that one was even louder but then again that pedal boosts more.
My Zuul clone I built way back (with a blue switch) has the pop come through too but not nearly as bad as either of the other.

Would you say that is just the nature of true bypass pedals in the loop?

The amp is an old Ampeg VH 140C. It's old enough to probably need a tune up anyway. Idk who has done what to it before hand.
 
Ah ok! So hopefully it is just a cap in the amp that needs to be swapped. I should try the pedal in the loop of my 5150 and see how bad the pop is. The Ampeg is solid state so at least I won't have to worry about tubes.
I recently ordered some big 10w resistors cuz one of the cement resistors in the amp was getting powdery on top of it anyway. Once I feel like opening that thing up to swap that I will go ahead and take a deeper peek. I already found a schematic for it anyway. But I've only modded and amp once so I'll have to do some research again. Gotta figure out why the reverb tank won't work too. When I smack it sound the spring sound comes through, but the guitar signal doesn't go through it. That amp will be sitting open for a while once I take it apart lolol
 
I just double checked and while my meter can't quite read it (caps out at 2 M).
I referenced my bag of them from tayda, and it's the same ones plus measured two in parallel since that put it in the range of being readable to make sure I wasn't reading the color code wrong and all good. But good call I should've went ahead and checked that I put the right value already. Thanks for pointing out which one I should check.
 
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