Beginner build, my first pedal, i'm nervous and i have some questions

Toerktumlare

New member
Hi, i did electronics during college about 15 years ago but since then i haven't done more than change some broken resistors the past years.

I thought i would try to build the triangulum boost pedal as a first build, i got the PCBs in the mail today and i'm pretty excited. I have been googling now for 3 hours looking at parts and i have a bunch of questions before i start. I apologize beforehand if these questions get asked all the time i have been trying to google and search the forum as much as i can. I am a bit scared of my first build.

First thing first, best place to order parts? I'm in Europe (Sweden), Mousers webpage was completely horrible, Tayda seemed nice, any other suggestions?

Next I have some noob questions:

- For the footswitch i assume its a 3PDT alternate action that is being used?
- Jacks are just 2, 1/4"?
- For the power, i assume it's running on 9V? or am i wrong, i have no idea what type of power connection that is good, what diameter etc.
- I googled that there are different TL071's that have different appended letters but it didn't really matter which one you chose, is this correct?
- And the main potentiometer i guess is logarithmic and not linear?
- I assume that the TC1044SCPA is a voltage regulator, but i'm thinking what the LED next to it is dimensioned for, a standard one like red?, but what if i want a blue do i need to alter resistor R100?
- any suggested enclosure?

Im sorry for my questions, i'm just a bit nervous but excited about building something again.

//Thomas
 
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Tayda for everything.

The PCBs are designed to fit in the boxes (enclosures) tayda sells with the thinline 2.1mm power jack, not the boss style big thing. Yes it's 9v.

The indicator led can be any size and colour. There's a 4k7 resistor on the board to limit the current flow so it doesn't explode. I drill out the existing hole to 8mm so I can use a 5mm led in a chrome bezel because I like the way it looks. You don't need a bezel at all, it's a stylistic choice.

TL071 is a TL071. They might have a different suffix depending on the manufacturer but if you use tayda I know them to be good and work fine.

Always buy ic sockets, 1 for each chip.

Yes. 2 regular 1/4" jacks.
 
Welcome aboard!

Congratulations on getting your first board, it's really exciting being able to put something together yourself.

  • You'll be able to get everything on the build sheet from Tayda, except the 2 x BC550C's and the TC1044SCPA. You'll have to look elsewhere for these, just be careful because mouser can have high shipping charges.
  • A single 3PDT is what you need. Grab this one
  • You will need 2 x 1/4" jacks, like these
  • You will be running at 9v. Get this power jack. Remember to wire it so the centre pin is negative.
  • Get the TL071 from Tayda. Here
  • The potentiometer is an A taper, so you'll need a logarithmic. Get this one from Tayda
  • The brightness of your bypass LED will be determined by R100. Start with 4k7. If this is too bright, go for a higher resistor. If it's not bright enough, use a lower resistor. Don't go any lower than 1k.
  • The build documents suggest a 125B enclosure. I'd recommend getting one from Tayda, any of these will work great.
 
I'd also very highly recommend you take a look through JBK's workflow:


He's done a great jobs of putting together a step by step guide of how he put together these builds.
 
Just to add, if you aren't feeling up to drilling the enclosure you can order one pre-drilled from Tayda, in any powdercoat color they offer.

This is the link to the custom drilling service:

Here's the template to upload:

The only difference from what was mentioned above is that you'd need to use this type of DC jack instead:
 
I second that recommendation on the Tayda pre-drilled enclosures. Saves a lot of time and the paint it beautiful. Note that they are painted after drilling and you will probably need to ream some of the holes out. Also, sand or scrape some of the paint off around the holes on the inside so that the pots, jacks & switches make electrical contact with the enclosure.
Take a look at the Build Reports forum for some inspiration.
Take your time, do a good job, use quality parts and you'll be pleased with the result. Inspect the board thoroughly before installing the pots because if you have to fix a solder joint or change a part, it's a LOT easier to do before the pots are installed. You've come to the right place for help; among the usual contributors there is over 100 years of combined experience.
 
Since you from Sverige I would also suggest german Musikding.de. Maybe a little easier and faster, cause it's still in the EU and you'll find everything you're looking for there too. Lykke til ;)

… and btw. you can get complete DIY kits for nearly every PedalPCB from there too !
 
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Wow, i didn't not expect such a friendly response from all of you. This makes me even more excited over starting to build!

I have one additional question, it say that if you go for the pre-drilled option, you should send an email and the subject of that email should be the order number followed by the SKU? The SKU seems to be some sort of product ID, but i don't really understand what i should write as the "SKU"?

my guess is if i want one red and one black i should write

<order number> A-5869, A-5192
 
That should be correct, the SKU is on each of the product pages.

If you order different templates make sure you specify in the email which template goes with which color/SKU.


The custom drilling service is brand new, I doubt very many people have used it yet.
 
Welcome aboard!

Congratulations on getting your first board, it's really exciting being able to put something together yourself.

  • You'll be able to get everything on the build sheet from Tayda, except the 2 x BC550C's and the TC1044SCPA. You'll have to look elsewhere for these, just be careful because mouser can have high shipping charges.
  • A single 3PDT is what you need. Grab this one
  • You will need 2 x 1/4" jacks, like these
  • You will be running at 9v. Get this power jack. Remember to wire it so the centre pin is negative.
  • Get the TL071 from Tayda. Here
  • The potentiometer is an A taper, so you'll need a logarithmic. Get this one from Tayda
  • The brightness of your bypass LED will be determined by R100. Start with 4k7. If this is too bright, go for a higher resistor. If it's not bright enough, use a lower resistor. Don't go any lower than 1k.
  • The build documents suggest a 125B enclosure. I'd recommend getting one from Tayda, any of these will work great.

you wrote that the:

TC1044SCPA needed to be sourced elsewhere but isn't this that component?

 
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