Barry
Well-known member
I'd suggest sockets and try a variety
Bellum Fuzz MKI parts values
- Thread starter manfesto
- Start date
You can use pretty much any germanium diode, they all clock in with a forward voltage of around 0.3V. I used D9Ks.
I went with 100nF everywhere because the gut shot @Mir9 posted shows that at least *one* production Fuzz War went out with 100nFs in it lolXD finished my build last night using the silkscreen values.... As expected it's a farty mess . Didn't have the time to troubleshoot but I know that manfesto made build report recently and he used 100nf caps on all the 680n ones and he seems to like it. In my end I think that swapping the 2n5089 for 2n5088 will help but haven't tried yet ! I am also tempted to try some 2n3903 since I ordered a bunch for the blackash recently ^^
if you check the build docs for the FuzzDog Fuzz Raw V1, their “stable” BoM is all 220nFs, but they suggest all 470nFs if you want more bass (but recommend against it) or all 100nFs if you want it a bit tighter. Might build another with 220nFs at some point, but even with 100nFs I didn’t find the bass lacking.
dajones191
New member
I built mine with 2n5088s and 1n34as and it sounds perfect
mdc
Well-known member
Just curious, has anyone ever tried to just get in touch with Oliver from DBA and ask him wtfrig was going on inside the mk1 fuzz wars? He seems like a chill punk and given that they don't make that pedal anymore it seems like he'd probably share some insight into the revision/troubleshooting/stabilization process they used to get the first few batches out the door.
jejackson5
New member
Noob questions. Looking for 20n, 120n film capacitors and the 100u electrolytic capacitor, but I'm not finding those exact values anywhere. Do I just go with the next closest value up?
The 120nF and 20nF caps are in parallel and add up to 140nF.
I used a 100nF and a 47nF instead to get 147nF which is close enough. You could also just use a 150nF in either spot and leave the other spot blank.
ThePrairieWitch
New member
I just built a mk1 straight from the instructions, and it seems to work, but I'm reasonably certain that my Gain knob is functioning more like a Bias knob, if that makes sense?
ThePrairieWitch
New member
I
I used an 18n in that spot, and it seems to work. My cab is in a iso booth and I didn't hook up the mic, so I do t have a perfect idea of how it sounds, but after boxing, it's not nearly as noisy as it was unboxed. My gain knob is odd though. When it's cranked it gets kinda gatey which I wasn't expecting
Chuck D. Bones
Circuit Wizard
Yeah, get within ±20% and you're fine. These builders who parallel caps and connect resistors in series to get some crazy value just make me laugh. Unless you're building a piece of precision equipment, it just doesn't matter.
100uF is one of the most common electrolytic cap values. Check Mouser, Tayda, Electronic Goldmine...
