Paradox916
Well-known member
Look mom, no damage to the pads.
Look mom, no damage to the pads.
Damn, so easy with that solder suckerI don't know what kind of iron you are using but I'm using my hakko with a smaller chisel tip. I like the chesil because the wider surface area means less cool down and better transfer of heat to both the component and pad. I have the temp at 850 usually for removal because it heats the solder fast and that means less time on the board and components. I keep the boards I don't bond with or box to cannibalize parts. This is an old robot board. I don't like to add any extra flux because it gets the plunger, pin and spring of the solder sucker all gummy. It's this simple. Look mom, no damage to the pads.
This is the wayI don't know what kind of iron you are using but I'm using my hakko with a smaller chisel tip. I like the chesil because the wider surface area means less cool down and better transfer of heat to both the component and pad. I have the temp at 850 usually for removal because it heats the solder fast and that means less time on the board and components. I keep the boards I don't bond with or box to cannibalize parts. This is an old robot board. I don't like to add any extra flux because it gets the plunger, pin and spring of the solder sucker all gummy. It's this simple. Look mom, no damage to the pads.
You had me at “vise grips…”I actually do this a similar, but opposite way, i put the vice grips on the pot(protector) and then I put a good amount of solder on the legs and then rest my iron across all 3 legs and then lift and the pot stays with the vice grips (and falls over unless secured) and the board comes with me.
This has given me the confidence to remove the speed pot in my Moonshot tremolo so I can replace it with a rev log. Thanks. The Engineer sucks so good.I don't know what kind of iron you are using but I'm using my hakko with a smaller chisel tip. I like the chesil because the wider surface area means less cool down and better transfer of heat to both the component and pad. I have the temp at 850 usually for removal because it heats the solder fast and that means less time on the board and components. I keep the boards I don't bond with or box to cannibalize parts. This is an old robot board. I don't like to add any extra flux because it gets the plunger, pin and spring of the solder sucker all gummy. It's this simple. Look mom, no damage to the pads.
There's a sucker born every minute. Get you one of 'em vampire engineers, son!Now I have sucker envy. Old blue has never let me down, but I want one of those cool looking ones!
On my switches, I started not filling the PCB holes, I use just enough on one side of the solder lug to get a good connection.Ok. Took the time yesterday and attempted to remove 3 pots from a bad board. I wasn’t concerned about damaging other components since it’s not worth my time desoldering and transferring to my new board. OP, I only have an iron and a good solder sucker.
Honestly, it was a painless process. I was nervous because I know firsthand how hard it is to desolder switches and figured it was just as troublesome. Not so at all.
All I did was suck up as much solder as possible on each pin. That was the most time consuming process. Then, I laid my iron so all 3 pins made contact and pulled by hand. I was expecting the pot to just fall out, but wasn’t the case. Helping hands were my friend here.
Anyways, lesson learned through trial and error and the advice from you guys. Many thanks!!
BuddytheReow