CONTEST Buddy's Contest

[steviejr92]

It would be if you connected R7 correctly. You might have built it right, but you have not drawn it right.

Ahhh I see now just stepped out for a few going to correct this right away!
R7 needs to go to ground!

 

[steviejr92]

Ok updated the Schematic. I definitely wired the board up correctly cause I don't think it would've worked other wise. At least not properly.

 

[KR Sound]

@steviejr92 Is that a rotary switch you’re using? Cool.

 

[steviejr92]

@steviejr92 Is that a rotary switch you’re using? Cool.

Yes sir it is! 1P8T just like the Rangefinder here at the store!

 

[KR Sound]

Yes sir it is! 1P8T just like the Rangefinder here at the store!

Nice. It’s gotta have a big chicken head knob if you build it, right?

 

[steviejr92]

Nice. It’s gotta have a big chicken head knob if you build it, right?

My thoughts exactly Im going to try for a vertical 125b design if not then its going to have to be a horizontal design. It all depends if i can design board for a 125b vertically or not.

 

[cdwillis]

Ok, I started working on this tonight. I made a schematic and laid out a PCB, but I haven't breadboarded it yet. It's sort of "inspired" by the ROG Whisker Biscuit, which is a hybrid of a big muff with a Bazz Fuss. I used a Rams Head Muff input section running into the Bazz Fuss, which goes to an output buffer with a Stupidly Wonderful Tone Control to tame some of the high end and finally an output volume pot. I was trying to do something at least somewhat clever with this so I used another BJT Transistor as the clipping diode in the Bazz Fuss section. The name is a reference to Uncle Elroy from Next Friday. Why? Why not?

 

[cdwillis]

Got a chance to put it on the breadboard tonight. It really is nasty. It has that transistor on the verge of exploding sound where the high harmonics get that nasally sound, but it's still thick sounding. The tone pot can reel in that characteristic high end buzz/sizzle if need be.

With just the 1k between the Fuzz pot's 1st lug and ground the fuzz pot was really only useable in the last 60% of the sweep or so. I swapped a 10k in place and it was a little better, but there's just not enough signal to keep the transistor-as-a-diode conducting in the earlier part of the pot. I swapped 100k resistor in and the entire range had sound. I need to find a sweet spot, maybe 47k. One the lower end of the sweep it's not as buzzy, but it can start to get gated the less signal is hitting Q2 and the transistor-as-a-diode.

I put the tone and volume pots on the board backwards. Need to swap them around. This thing has a ton of volume output which surprised me. I'm going to keep tinkering with it. I may remove or decrease the input resistor to see how that effects the fuzz.

 

[Chuck D. Bones]

You could try making the FUZZ pot larger and removing R6. Leave FUZZ pin 1 not connected to anything.

 

[KR Sound]

I updated my tone control and like it a lot better. It definitely attacks and tames the highs and the B25 seems to go far enough.



The only thing I haven't done is wire up the switches between the two circuits.

 

[Chuck D. Bones]

I like what you did there with the clipping diodes.

 

[Chuck D. Bones]

One last submission, another boost. I named this one Julie because it can be sweet, it can be dirty and I'll stop with the adjectives right there.
This bears a strong resemblance to the Viceroy output stage. Not deliberate, it just ended up that way. It started out as one of the Dr. Robert output stages. I initially installing a BIAS pot for R4, but it was not all that useful. I tried a bunch of different JFETs, but landed on the 2SK193 because it had the most gain. Most JFETs will work, Vp between 1V and 2V is best. The TONE control is a Bass cut. At 7:00, the bass cuts off below 50Hz. As TONE is turned up, the sound becomes tighter. Above noon, we get into RangeMaster territory. At 5:00, the cutoff is around 700Hz. This circuit should work well anywhere in the pedal chain. With 18V power, it can drive a tube amp reeeeeeeel gooooooood.



Debbie on the left, Julie on the right. No, they never met in real life.



Here is a tamer version of the Julie Boost. All I changed were the two JFETs & R4. Got the 2SK30A from Tayda.

 

[KR Sound]

@Chuck D. Bones After I put in that new simple tone circuit, it eliminated practically all of the noise and hum I had when the pedal is on and I’m not playing. Any ideas why that would be exactly?

 

[Chuck D. Bones]

My experience with breadboards is relocating just one wire can alter the hum & noise pickup significantly. R U sure you didn't change the anything else?

 

[KR Sound]

Could be. I did space some stuff out to make more room to work with. That’s probably it. Thanks.

 

[Chuck D. Bones]

If I run into hum or noise pickup on a breadboard, the first thing I do is try to press the long wires down against the board or bottom plate. I also try to keep the input wires short since they are the most sensitive to pickup.

 

[KR Sound]

Right on, thanks. I do have a lot of wire everywhere.

 

[KR Sound]

Oh man, I just realized we have until the middle of March and I was thinking the first of February for some reason. I’m totally going to get some boards made, a cool enclosure made, and build this thing. Awesome.

 

[steviejr92]

Ok so here my attempt at a delay that splits the signal into either HI PASS or LO PASS and the PT2399 Delay and then sends it out together as one. I have no idea what im doing lol just thought this would sound cool to have either option. I haven't breadboarded it yet. Don't know if I should add a LEVEL pot I feel like its already cluttered having a Delay, Repeat, and individual HI PASS and LO PASS knobs. Not to mention the switch. At its heart its a seabed delay. I have the PT2399 setup in the ECHO application. Again i have no idea if this works or how it would sound. Let me know if this is even worth it lol.

 

[Chuck D. Bones]

What is SW1B supposed to do?

Why are R12 & R13 so small? U1B & U1D are gonna have a tug-of-war.