Barry
Well-known member
I've found a couple of local Coconut Porters that clock in that range that are excellent, I know coconut and beer sounds weird but it's really good
Celebrating the Autumnal Equinox with another pedal - The Mojito
- Thread starter Chuck D. Bones
- Start date
Nostradoomus
Well-known member
Heck yeah I’ve had a few of those!
Chuck D. Bones
Circuit Wizard
Actually, I like Foster's.
I used to poo-poo flavored beers until I tried Rogue Chocolate Stout. A now defunct brewpub in Costa Mesa made a coconut stout "The Patsy" with toasted coconut brewed in. The best flavored beers don't taste like they were flavored. And then there are the barrel-aged stouts. The Force is strong with them. <(-.-)>
Here's the Vero.
Some notes: X's represent cuts. Ignore the red O, it's just a hole that came in the board. Next to pin 8 of the IC, bridge the two columns together on the solder side. Do the same thing next to pin 4. There is a cut right under Pin 5 of the IC so that pin 5 does not connect to the POWER trace.
All caps are film except C2 & C6 are ceramic, C3, C8, C9 & C15 are tantalum, C16 & C17 are aluminum. I used silver-mica for C4, but ceramic or film are fine. C16 & C17 fit pretty snug, so make sure you use skinny ones. You'll need small form factor resistors in a few places, or you can (barf) stand them up. Study the photo above.
HamishR also made a Vero layout. His is a little easier to build and has room for C3, C9 & C15 to be film caps.
I like pretty much all of 'em! Even Michelob is palatable when served on tap.
I used to poo-poo flavored beers until I tried Rogue Chocolate Stout. A now defunct brewpub in Costa Mesa made a coconut stout "The Patsy" with toasted coconut brewed in. The best flavored beers don't taste like they were flavored. And then there are the barrel-aged stouts. The Force is strong with them. <(-.-)>
Here's the Vero.
Some notes: X's represent cuts. Ignore the red O, it's just a hole that came in the board. Next to pin 8 of the IC, bridge the two columns together on the solder side. Do the same thing next to pin 4. There is a cut right under Pin 5 of the IC so that pin 5 does not connect to the POWER trace.
All caps are film except C2 & C6 are ceramic, C3, C8, C9 & C15 are tantalum, C16 & C17 are aluminum. I used silver-mica for C4, but ceramic or film are fine. C16 & C17 fit pretty snug, so make sure you use skinny ones. You'll need small form factor resistors in a few places, or you can (barf) stand them up. Study the photo above.
HamishR also made a Vero layout. His is a little easier to build and has room for C3, C9 & C15 to be film caps.
Chuck D. Bones
Circuit Wizard
Count me in, Man.
Oh yeah - I'd love one!
I guess I should post my layout because its better than Chuck's.
I have also changed a few bits here and there to make it sound very, very close to my Model The G if the Pregain knob is on zero. So you almost have two pedals in one - a G if Pregain is off and then wind in some Pregain for an increasing powerful distortion. I'm a big fan of touch-sensitive lowish gain overdrives, and that's what this is before you touch the Pregain. It's unusual to me to have a distortion level pedal which works as well as this one does at lower gain. But then I'm biased.
Updated with a correction - thanks Zgrav! Also this is my version of the Mojito. Chuck's has a couple of differences in the Pregain section. You'll see them in his schematic.
I guess I should post my layout because its better than Chuck's.
I have also changed a few bits here and there to make it sound very, very close to my Model The G if the Pregain knob is on zero. So you almost have two pedals in one - a G if Pregain is off and then wind in some Pregain for an increasing powerful distortion. I'm a big fan of touch-sensitive lowish gain overdrives, and that's what this is before you touch the Pregain. It's unusual to me to have a distortion level pedal which works as well as this one does at lower gain. But then I'm biased.
Updated with a correction - thanks Zgrav! Also this is my version of the Mojito. Chuck's has a couple of differences in the Pregain section. You'll see them in his schematic.
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If you can, have a look on the can next time you get Fosters and tell me where it was brewed. They sell a Fosters in the UK which is apparently quite different from the Aussie Fosters even though it's supposed to be the same. I guess it's much like the Stella Artois which is brewed in the UK and tastes very different from Stella in Europe. I quite like both but they are quite different. The Stella brewed under license in Australia is just generic Euro-pils and tastes nothing like any Stella brewed in the northern hemisphere.
FWIW Pabst Blue Ribbon is quite trendy amongst the young pub goer here in Perth. We get Miller, Pabst, Buds, Rolling Rock, Sam Adams and Coors here and I really don't know why you would buy them when there is much better available locally and imported. For the record the only beer I have ever left in a pub unfinished in my life was Buds at a bar in San Francisco. I asked the barman for a pint of the most popular beer he sold in his bar and that is what I got. When I later saw a Laundromat/Bar later in San Francisco (brilliant idea!) called "Buds and Suds" I wondered how you would tell the difference.
FWIW Pabst Blue Ribbon is quite trendy amongst the young pub goer here in Perth. We get Miller, Pabst, Buds, Rolling Rock, Sam Adams and Coors here and I really don't know why you would buy them when there is much better available locally and imported. For the record the only beer I have ever left in a pub unfinished in my life was Buds at a bar in San Francisco. I asked the barman for a pint of the most popular beer he sold in his bar and that is what I got. When I later saw a Laundromat/Bar later in San Francisco (brilliant idea!) called "Buds and Suds" I wondered how you would tell the difference.
Chuck D. Bones
Circuit Wizard
Hamish with his B-taper pots ?
The Foster's I buy here now is brewed in the US. Back in the day, it came from Oz. I'd take one on a backpack trip and save it for the perfect spot, usually a lake above the tree-line in the Sierras. The steel can doubled as a source for repair parts for stoves and such.
The Foster's I buy here now is brewed in the US. Back in the day, it came from Oz. I'd take one on a backpack trip and save it for the perfect spot, usually a lake above the tree-line in the Sierras. The steel can doubled as a source for repair parts for stoves and such.
Last December I was in Austria and we went to a biathlon meet in Hochfilzen. We saw four races over two days and as it was obviously below 1C they didn't need any fridges for the beer. This is unheard of for a bloke from Australia. Beer on a shelf?? We like our beer stupid cold here. So I used the snow as a fridge for my beer. You just can't do that in Perth!
And maybe I like B-taper pots because I prefer beer-taper.
And maybe I like B-taper pots because I prefer beer-taper.
This is my homage to the Bearfoot style Scribble!
Chuck D. Bones
Circuit Wizard
If you have trouble sourcing BA482 diodes, sub anything with a high Vf.
BA283
any BJT E-B (do not connect C)
any JFET G-D&S
A series pair of Ge diodes might work too, haven't tried it.
BA283
any BJT E-B (do not connect C)
any JFET G-D&S
A series pair of Ge diodes might work too, haven't tried it.
Chuck D. Bones
Circuit Wizard
It has come to my attention that C25K pots are hard to come by since the demise of Mammoth Electronics. You can use a C50K for the PRE-GAIN pot and connect a 47K resistor from pin 1 to pin 3. The range and feel of the PRE-GAIN pot will be very close to using a C25K.
You'll notice that Hamish changed a couple of capacitor values in the BASS control circuit. C7 affects the freq response when BASS is below noon; C8 influences the freq response when BASS is above noon. Reducing C7 affects mainly the midrange.
C2 is an RF filter and can be anything up to about 330pF before you'll hear any difference.
You'll notice that Hamish changed a couple of capacitor values in the BASS control circuit. C7 affects the freq response when BASS is below noon; C8 influences the freq response when BASS is above noon. Reducing C7 affects mainly the midrange.
C2 is an RF filter and can be anything up to about 330pF before you'll hear any difference.
Yeah - sorry, I should have made that clearer. I called mine Mojito II because It's slightly different from Chuck's.
I have a bag of C25K pots I bought from Mouser. When we were working out details for this circuit I used 1N4001s instead of 2N5952s as clipping diodes because I didn't want to use up my stash of Jfets and found that I actually really like the sound. The 2N5952s make excellent diodes though. They sound slightly clearer and less aggressive but the difference is slight. The 1N4001s have a little bit more attack to them. FWIW I have tried BAT41s there but they killed too much signal.
Chuck has helped me bring my pedals to another level. His knowledge is phenomenal. But more than that it's how happily he shares his knowledge which makes this forum fantastic. It's not just Chuck either, but his help has been particularly amazing for me.
I have a bag of C25K pots I bought from Mouser. When we were working out details for this circuit I used 1N4001s instead of 2N5952s as clipping diodes because I didn't want to use up my stash of Jfets and found that I actually really like the sound. The 2N5952s make excellent diodes though. They sound slightly clearer and less aggressive but the difference is slight. The 1N4001s have a little bit more attack to them. FWIW I have tried BAT41s there but they killed too much signal.
Chuck has helped me bring my pedals to another level. His knowledge is phenomenal. But more than that it's how happily he shares his knowledge which makes this forum fantastic. It's not just Chuck either, but his help has been particularly amazing for me.
Barry
Well-known member
Teetotaler? I thought you were Australian!
Chuck D. Bones
Circuit Wizard
I just demo'ed this for a friend and his first question was "Can you add a stomp switch to kick the Boost on and off?" His second question was "How soon can I get one?"
