chongmagic
Well-known member
Removed R100 and solder bridged it and it sounds great.
Nice build! Why did you remove R100?
What you described is what the middle function of the 3 position toggle does. It "parks" the frequency so you can manually sweep the phase, dialing in the cocked wah sound. By chance, was it in that position when you tested it?It was causing the green LED on the bicolor LED not to illuminate. But now the effect is not working it seems. The knobs control the phaser but only if they are moved manually. I am going to have to troubleshoot it. It worked fine before I messed with R100 but that is probably a coincidence.
Did you use 1k for R100?For what it's worth, I used this LED with the 1k CLRs and have had no problems. It seems that different LEDs may have different forward voltages that may be interfering with the LFO's operation.
If the LEDs try to draw more current than the LFO can supply, then the LFO output sags and the LFO stops. The amount of current that the output can deliver depends on the RATE pot setting. Maximum LED current draw depends on R33, R100 and the two LED's Vf. If the resistors are made large enough, then the LFO won't freeze. Except when the RATE switch is in the middle position and it's supposed to freeze.For what it's worth, I used this LED with the 1k CLRs and have had no problems. It seems that different LEDs may have different forward voltages that may be interfering with the LFO's operation.