Confirmation Needed Aion Prism

[joelorigo]

I am about to start building the Aion Prism. The PCB has pads for the chips use in the original (HA1457W) and for a dual op amp. It recommends to socket the pads to change out and try different chips. I did notice that in the parts list there is a note on C13 & C14 saying "leave empty if not using HA1457W." So it sound like if one wants to try different ICs, C13 & C14 should also be socketed also, correct? I have these that I was planning to use for IC1 & IC2

SIP SOCKET, 40-PIN SNAPPABLE - GuitarPCB

SIP SOCKET, 40-PIN SNAPPABLE

guitarpcb.com

Could I break off 2 each for the pads of C13 & 14?

 

[Jovi Bon Kenobi]

Test to make sure both the caps and IC's will fit in those before you lock em down. Some of the fatter leads don't fit in those. Resistors and most but not all diodes fit in those and caps generally have fatter leads than resistors. You will probably want to get IC sockets for future builds but those may work in a pinch if it fits correctly, albeit trickier to line up straight.

 

[joelorigo]

I didn't think about that!

I checked and the HA1457Ws and the caps I have for C13 & C14 do fit in the above sockets.

So yes, when using the HA1457W ICs use the100pf caps in C13 & C14, and if using a dual op amp take them out, correct?
Here's a link to the project:

https://aionelectronics.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/aion-prism-fa1-documentation.pdf

 

[Jovi Bon Kenobi]

So yes, when using the HA1457W ICs use the100pf caps in C13 & C14, and if using a dual op amp take them out, correct?

Correct!

 

[Nostradoomus]

For the capacitor pads it’s easier to snap 3-4 (however many it takes to span the gap) sockets off and pull the middle pins out as opposed to one at a time..makes it easier to keep straight and in place.

 

[joelorigo]

For the capacitor pads it’s easier to snap 3-4 (however many it takes to span the gap) sockets off and pull the middle pins out as opposed to one at a time..makes it easier to keep straight and in place.

Ah, I get what your saying.

Thanks, everyone! See you on the Build Reports next week (or the Troubleshooting sooner ?).

 

[joelorigo]

Oh one more question. The docs say for the LED, "the flat side matches the silk screen." The LED I have is completely round - no flat side, but does have a longer and shorter lead. The back of the PCB has the circle with the flat side printed on it. The flat side is negative, right? I put the shorter lead of the LED in the pad next to the flat side, right?

 

[Many__Of__Horror]

Yep short leg (Flat side) is the Cathode (negative), long leg is the Anode (Positive)

 

[Jovi Bon Kenobi]

Flat side on the board is negative, yes. Every time I've used LED's the longer lead is the Anode(+) and the Shorter lead is the Cathode(-). Though recently, someone posted this which is straight confusing. haha.

 

[Chas Grant]

Just so you know, you can solder C13 and C14 in without the sockets. If you remove the HA1457's then the caps will not be connected to anything. These are the external compensation caps connected to pins 3 and 5 of the IC, so when the ICs are removed they will have absolutely no effect on the circuit. This will save you the hassle of removing them when you swap op amps.

I built the Aion Comet, DS-1. I socketed both IC's on that and soldered their respected components in with no problems. After testing both sockets I went with the original 7 pin T7136AP preamp. This IC with germanium clipping diodes is really nice sounding. It has been in my chain since I finished it.

 

[music6000]

Most LED's are identified like this.
Look for the biggest terminal internally, called the Anvil as it resembles one, CATHODE.

 

[music6000]

Get a Peak DCA55, it tells you with any Diode, LED, Transistor type & Pinout & much more!
I wouldn't build without one!!!
Go to 11.55 :

 

[Nostradoomus]

Lots of multimeters have a diode function that lets a small amount of voltage through so LEDs turn on without burning out.

 

[joelorigo]

Flat side on the board is negative, yes. Every time I've used LED's the longer lead is the Anode(+) and the Shorter lead is the Cathode(-). Though recently, someone posted this which is straight confusing. haha.

Yikes, yes it seems like metal inside is the the best way to ID polarity

 

[joelorigo]

Just so you know, you can solder C13 and C14 in without the sockets. If you remove the HA1457's then the caps will not be connected to anything. These are the external compensation caps connected to pins 3 and 5 of the IC, so when the ICs are removed they will have absolutely no effect on the circuit. This will save you the hassle of removing them when you swap op amps.

Too late. I already finished the PCB and added the sockets. I think the docs could have been clearer on that point.

 

[joelorigo]

I built the Aion Comet, DS-1. I socketed both IC's on that and soldered their respected components in with no problems. After testing both sockets I went with the original 7 pin T7136AP preamp. This IC with germanium clipping diodes is really nice sounding. It has been in my chain since I finished it.

Don't tell me that! Now I will go look at it and want one! And I don't need another distortion pedal!