Does this PCB look ready to receive power?

A

azaheltorres05232007@gmai

New member
I repurchased all the parts for the Arachnid pedal I was previously building and started from scratch. I would appreciate it if someone could let me know if it’s okay to connect power to it just so I don’t fry any of the components.

(In and Out have yet to be connected as well as power cables) xx IMG_5837.jpeg IMG_5835.jpeg IMG_5836.jpeg
 
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azaheltorres05232007@gmai said:
Gave it power and the regulator seems to be working correctly (Giving ~3, 0, ~7 readings left to right), but the FV-1 at pin 28 is only reading ~1.7 volts, the led is always on but gets brighter when footswitch is in on position. What seems to be the problem? Thanks for your response
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The wires going to the footswitch seem kinda long and untrimmed on the other side, did you fix that after the pic or could they be making contact there?

Are the pots insulated from the PCB? I can only see one having insulation, could the others be shorting components?

Like Bricksnbeatles said, four of the pots are upside down, but they should still work, just in a funky manner.
 
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Bricksnbeatles said:
Why’d you put 4 of the pots upside down?
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Fama said:
The wires going to the footswitch seem kinda long and untrimmed on the other side, did you fix that after the pic or could they be making contact there?

Are the pots insulated from the PCB? I can only see one having insulation, could the others be shorting components?

Like Bricksnbeatles said, four of the pots are upside down, but they should still work, just in a funky manner.
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Thanks for the reply, the footswitch right now seems to be the issue, I checked my fv-1 again pin 6 and got 3.3V so that’s not the problem, pots have electrical tape so to prevent shorts. I’m thinking maybe there’s an issue with the breakout board and its signal path so i’m going to just wire it directly and see how that works. Thanks again!
 
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azaheltorres05232007@gmai said:
Thanks for the reply, the footswitch right now seems to be the issue, I checked my fv-1 again pin 6 and got 3.3V so that’s not the problem, pots have electrical tape so to prevent shorts. I’m thinking maybe there’s an issue with the breakout board and its signal path so i’m going to just wire it directly and see how that works. Thanks again!
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You didn't answer my question about the wires touching each other after they've gone through the breakout board?

I doubt it's the breakout board itself, but I have resolved weird issues like that by wiring directly too, there could be bridges or something. You could check that connectivity works as it should and doesn't do what it shouldn't with a multimeter if you have one handy, before reworking it? There's a risk of ruining the footswitch when desoldering.

I also once had an "always on LED" issue which was caused by one strand of wire making contact from the SW to GND, but you use solid core wire so it's not that (plus it wouldn't be brighter once you switch it on in that case).
 
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Fama said:
You didn't answer my question about the wires touching each other after they've gone through the breakout board?

I doubt it's the breakout board itself, but I have resolved weird issues like that by wiring directly too, there could be bridges or something. You could check that connectivity works as it should and doesn't do what it shouldn't with a multimeter if you have one handy, before reworking it? There's a risk of ruining the footswitch when desoldering.

I also once had an "always on LED" issue which was caused by one strand of wire making contact from the SW to GND, but you use solid core wire so it's not that (plus it wouldn't be brighter once you switch it on in that case).
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Oh right, the wires weren’t actually touching I had trimmed them off after I took that photo.

And I did notice that the led wire was bridging over to one of the switch through holes by a couple strands so I fixed that

But yeah i’m planning on just switching to wiring directly, ditching the breakout board, buying a couple more switches since it’s honestly gonna be a mess to desolder the one I have.

Thanks for the reply
 
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azaheltorres05232007@gmai said:
Oh right, the wires weren’t actually touching I had trimmed them off after I took that photo.

And I did notice that the led wire was bridging over to one of the switch through holes by a couple strands so I fixed that

But yeah i’m planning on just switching to wiring directly, ditching the breakout board, buying a couple more switches since it’s honestly gonna be a mess to desolder the one I have.

Thanks for the reply
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Remember to check your input and output jacks to verify you've wired the ground and hot wires correctly, that's the one that still gets me from time to time.
 
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I have a fair bit of experience with component lead ends piercing electrical tape easily. If that is all that is on your pots assume they are not insulated unless you have made it really really thick (like thick enough that even if the longest cut lead end went in as deep as it possibly could then it wouldn't actually reach).
 
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PJS said:
I have a fair bit of experience with component lead ends piercing electrical tape easily. If that is all that is on your pots assume they are not insulated unless you have made it really really thick (like thick enough that even if the longest cut lead end went in as deep as it possibly could then it wouldn't actually reach).
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PJS is absolutely correct..... electrical tape will not protect... leads poke through that pretty easy and will cause you tones of troubleshooting grief.... at the least id throw some thin plastic under there.. ideally pot covers though... I have 3d printed versions listed on thingiverse if you happen to have a 3d printer to print them out.
 
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