Drill Hole Diameters

chrisguk

New member
Hello PPCB, I'm a new joiner to the forum, but I've been working on my hobby of building pedals for maybe a year and half. Up to now I've used pre-drilled enclosures, but now I'm taking on my most ambitious project yet, and I'm custom UV printing the enclosures with custom drilling, courtesy of Tayda.

I'm a bit new to reading data sheets for components, and drilling in general, and I was hoping someone might pass their eyes over my workings and just check I'm reading the right number for the mounting hole diameter. I've put what I believe the correct diameter is in (mm):

https://www.taydaelectronics.com/6-35mm-1-4-mono-insulated-switched-socket-jack-solder-lugs.html (11mm)
https://www.taydaelectronics.com/mini-rotary-switch-1-pole-8-position-alpha-rs16211-20mm.html (9.1mm)
https://www.taydaelectronics.com/mini-toggle-switch-1m-series-spdt-on-on-short-lever.html (6.4mm)
https://www.taydaelectronics.com/dc-power-jack-2-1mm-round-type-panel-mount-1.html (8mm)

Since I will be using powder coated enclosures, the Tayda instructions suggest adding 0.2mm to the measurements. I also intend on mounting a 3mm LED flush with the enclosure for aesthetic reasons, and so I'm planning on adding a 3.2mm hole, and probably hot gluing the LED in place.

If anything I've written seems stupid, I would appreciate any guidance that will put me on the right path. Thank you!
 
It looks like you’ve got the hang of it.

Having a little wiggle room is fine, but a hole that is slightly too small can be disappointing.

I recommend procuring a swiss file if you don’t already have one. If you get surprised by a hole that’s too small, you’ll have a lot more control to fix it than something like a step drill bit.
 
For flushmount, I like these.
You can trim and sand the stem.
Note. They're 2mm. If you drill correctly(not too large), they press fit very well.

For 3mm, these protrude just a bit, but look nice.

I have done some odd one offs where I needed to a fix LEDs in position. Epoxy is a better solution imo.
If it's a straight vertical shot from the pcb to enclosure(no odd bending), LED spacers work well.

Get 3mm x 8mm/9.5/10.5
That will suffice for most uses.
 
I go the other way around. I use calipers once I receive the components and drill the next round number up.

Pots are usually 6.7 mm diameter so I drill 7mm, etc. I don't bother with schematics. I do have access to a pillar drill though and basically all bits you can ask for, including step bits.

My routine is punching a mark twice, drill 2mm, then step drill untill I reach the correct diameter. If I have to drill an odd value, I will use the step drill until I am 1mm too small and widen with the proper bit. The trick is to let the rotating bit find it's middle by bit holding the enclosure too tight at first and let it wiggle.

For flush LED I would use a tiny bit of CA glue and call it a day.

Hope that helps!
 
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