(Not Another) Enclosure Finishing Thread

[Ginsly]

This is incredibly helpful, thanks everyone! Some of this never would have occurred to me.

In the event that I want to simply polish some of these to a really, really smooth, shiny finish - how would I go about that? I assume I'd need to wet-sand using a few different sandpaper grits (ending with something incredibly fine), but then what? What kind of polish/technique would I need to get the Robocop-iest finish possible?

@cdwillis - I'll almost certainly get some of that Rust-Oleum Hammertone spray, so thanks for the tips. Sounds like you need a pretty heavy coat.

@jwin615 - yeah, I think it won't hurt to sand the enclosures a bit. Still wondering about primer... I'd love to avoid it, but I'd also want to give anything I spray a chance to stay put! Oh, and earlier when you said not to wet-sand a painted enclosure - when would that be necessary? When you buy a pre-painted box and then add more layers to it? Just trying to clarify - thx!

@Alan W - lots of great insights. What you're saying about aluminum adhesion makes sense, what with all of the chipped pedals I've seen over the years! I think I'll likely go ahead and wet sand no matter what, and I might actually have Acetone. Another vote for Dupli-color is making it sound like a good choice, and it's a bit of a bummer to hear that the Montana paints I have might not work well. Guess I could see what happens on a dented box. Although in that case, I'd need to get some Montana clear coat since it sounds like all layers need to be the same type/brand.

@steviejr92 - so you screen print with enamel (looks like that's what One Shot is). I suppose I could sacrifice one of my crappier screens... What mesh, and what do you clean up with - mineral spirits? If I have a tough time finding One Shot I wonder what other enamels might work. @cdwillis mentioned having a tough time with enamels fully drying - has that ever been an issue when screening them?

@Erik S - I love Posca! I was actually thinking I'd try some scribbles on one just to see how it looked on bare aluminum. Guess I'd have to clear coat it still. That one from Amazon works well? With anything on that site, the reviews are all over the place... yeesh. Those wire stands are great! Where'd ya get em?

@Feral Feline - It definitely sounds like I won't be mixing sprays! Ha... I've received that warning more than once, and it's something I never would have considered. The paint and clear coat need to be the same (as well as the primer if necessary - jury's still out on that!).

@hamerfan - no sweat!

 

[Alan W]

In the event that I want to simply polish some of these to a really, really smooth, shiny finish - how would I go about that? I assume I'd need to wet-sand using a few different sandpaper grits (ending with something incredibly fine), but then what? What kind of polish/technique would I need to get the Robocop-iest finish possible? ​

I’m including a picture, but it’s a great “do as I say, don’t do what I did” situation, in that I brought it up to a reflective polish, but didn’t fully sand the aluminum flat…

You‘ll want a nice flat surface, like a small sheet of glass, or whatever, and you put the sandpaper down on it, and wipe the pedal over it, (rather than moving the sand paper). Use wet or dry, and I’d probably start with around 400. Use water, makes it faster and does a better job sanding. When the aluminum surface is flat, it’s time to switch to a higher grade. You could go up to 1200 but probably don’t need to, it depends on what you have for polishing. (If you’re polishing by elbow grease, I’d maybe even go to 2000.)

I use a buffing wheel, with a loose cotton pad on it, but a soft felt, if you’ve got a light touch, would also work. Pretty sure I used a red compound on it, or maybe a tripoli—follow the advice of the compound packaging for aluminum. Ideally, you’d use two, the first for “cutting” and the second for “coloring,” which will bring up a high shine. In the sample photo, the aluminum had pits in it (and I think this was a genuine Hammond…) and I just didn’t want to go that far, so I decided that a rustic polish, along with a Dynaco knob from the 50’s (off a preamp I still have up in the attic) would follow the theme. Aluminum is soft, if you use a harder pad, or compound made for steel, you’ll get brush marks in it.

 

[swelchy]

I mostly try to buy my enclosures in powder coated colors so I dont have to paint base colors... I print my decals and graphics on clear waterslide with an inkjet printer and only clear coat them with nitrocellulose gloss lacquer..

 

[Erik S]

That one from Amazon works well? With anything on that site, the reviews are all over the place... yeesh. Those wire stands are great! Where'd ya get em?

That clear works well enough for me. Nothing in a can is going to be as tough as powder coat, but I’m happy with it.

I did mostly stop clear coating the pedal bottoms/ lids due to scratching. Works okay if you add rubber feet though.

I bend the stands out of tig welding rod. Any kind of bendable wire could work though. They make handling the enclosures while I’m waiting for them to dry much easier.

 

[jwin615]

I said, or at least meant to, that I wouldn't wet sand before painting(a bare enclosure).
Now, you can wet sand/buff before clear coating.

Wet sanding a bare enclosure is really only good for a mirror finish, imo.

 

[steviejr92]

This is incredibly helpful, thanks everyone! Some of this never would have occurred to me.

In the event that I want to simply polish some of these to a really, really smooth, shiny finish - how would I go about that? I assume I'd need to wet-sand using a few different sandpaper grits (ending with something incredibly fine), but then what? What kind of polish/technique would I need to get the Robocop-iest finish possible?

@cdwillis - I'll almost certainly get some of that Rust-Oleum Hammertone spray, so thanks for the tips. Sounds like you need a pretty heavy coat.

@jwin615 - yeah, I think it won't hurt to sand the enclosures a bit. Still wondering about primer... I'd love to avoid it, but I'd also want to give anything I spray a chance to stay put! Oh, and earlier when you said not to wet-sand a painted enclosure - when would that be necessary? When you buy a pre-painted box and then add more layers to it? Just trying to clarify - thx!

@Alan W - lots of great insights. What you're saying about aluminum adhesion makes sense, what with all of the chipped pedals I've seen over the years! I think I'll likely go ahead and wet sand no matter what, and I might actually have Acetone. Another vote for Dupli-color is making it sound like a good choice, and it's a bit of a bummer to hear that the Montana paints I have might not work well. Guess I could see what happens on a dented box. Although in that case, I'd need to get some Montana clear coat since it sounds like all layers need to be the same type/brand.

@steviejr92 - so you screen print with enamel (looks like that's what One Shot is). I suppose I could sacrifice one of my crappier screens... What mesh, and what do you clean up with - mineral spirits? If I have a tough time finding One Shot I wonder what other enamels might work. @cdwillis mentioned having a tough time with enamels fully drying - has that ever been an issue when screening them?

@Erik S - I love Posca! I was actually thinking I'd try some scribbles on one just to see how it looked on bare aluminum. Guess I'd have to clear coat it still. That one from Amazon works well? With anything on that site, the reviews are all over the place... yeesh. Those wire stands are great! Where'd ya get em?

@Feral Feline - It definitely sounds like I won't be mixing sprays! Ha... I've received that warning more than once, and it's something I never would have considered. The paint and clear coat need to be the same (as well as the primer if necessary - jury's still out on that!).

@hamerfan - no sweat!

I never had problems with it curing. I’ve always waited just 24hrs and been fine. I use a 280 mesh count screen. Anything more I believe the screen will be too fragile and anything less I believe you won’t get the details you want. For cleanup I use mineral spirits, pre tape the screen with low adhesive tape and cleanup will be a breeze!

 

[Ginsly]

Ideally, you’d use two, the first for “cutting” and the second for “coloring,” which will bring up a high shine.

That looks fantastic! I would be doing it by hand, so it sounds like the "wet sandpaper on a table" technique is the best way forward.

I'm certainly open to two different polishing compounds, I'm just not quite sure what #1 would be, and what would follow it. Thanks SO much for the input, this is perfect.

I mostly try to buy my enclosures in powder coated colors so I dont have to paint base colors... I print my decals and graphics on clear waterslide with an inkjet printer and only clear coat them with nitrocellulose gloss lacquer..

Yep, I'll certainly buy powdercoated going forward - these "nudes" were procured as inexpensive testers while I get my feet wet, but builds are (surprisingly) working out and I'd like to gussy em up a bit. I don't have an inkjet, so I can't make decals - I know they're cheap, but man, are they a pain in the rear! You use a basic nitro spray like this? I'd use the same brand as any paint I'd use, too - not necessarily this one:

Wet sanding a bare enclosure is really only good for a mirror finish, imo.

Gotcha! It seems like it'd be a safer bet to just wet sand in any situation, but I'll keep this in mind - I will be trying the mirror-finish thing too!

I never had problems with it curing. I’ve always waited just 24hrs and been fine. I use a 280 mesh count screen. Anything more I believe the screen will be too fragile and anything less I believe you won’t get the details you want. For cleanup I use mineral spirits, pre tape the screen with low adhesive tape and cleanup will be a breeze!

Very good to know. My screens are about 230, and I can get pretty fine detail but good ink deposit. That's on paper, though! Tiny details on a piece of metal is a different situation. I'm still really curious if I could get away with acrylic ink and seal it with lacquer like the can above, though... I avoid mineral spirits like the plague! Ha... Totally willing to go that route, though.

 

[swelchy]

That looks fantastic! I would be doing it by hand, so it sounds like the "wet sandpaper on a table" technique is the best way forward.

I'm certainly open to two different polishing compounds, I'm just not quite sure what #1 would be, and what would follow it. Thanks SO much for the input, this is perfect.

Yep, I'll certainly buy powdercoated going forward - these "nudes" were procured as inexpensive testers while I get my feet wet, but builds are (surprisingly) working out and I'd like to gussy em up a bit. I don't have an inkjet, so I can't make decals - I know they're cheap, but man, are they a pain in the rear! You use a basic nitro spray like this? I'd use the same brand as any paint I'd use, too - not necessary this one:
View attachment 81322

Gotcha! It seems like it'd be a safer bet to just wet sand in any situation, but I'll keep this in mind - I will be trying the mirror-finish thing too!

Very good to know. My screens are about 230, and I can get pretty fine detail but good ink deposit. That's on paper, though! Tiny details on a piece of metal is a different situation. I'm still really curious if I could get away with acrylic ink and seal it with lacquer like the can above, though... I avoid mineral spirits like the plague! Ha... Totally willing to go that route, though.

I use exactly that lacquer spray!

 

[Ginsly]

I use exactly that lacquer spray!

Haha, nice! It was the first thing that popped up in a "where can I just get this locally fer cryin out loud" search!

 

[Alan W]

That looks fantastic! I would be doing it by hand, so it sounds like the "wet sandpaper on a table" technique is the best way forward.

I'm certainly open to two different polishing compounds, I'm just not quite sure what #1 would be, and what would follow it. Thanks SO much for the input, this is perfect.

I can't give you specific brands (at least specifically for aluminum), but I think you'd want a polishing paste, at least toothpaste thick, on soft cotton pads, or something like that. When you get an even, semi-polished look to it, switch to a finer polish, maybe Semi-Chrome, and continue. When your pad starts to get dark, change to a clean one. Elbow grease is cool. And again, since you're mainly dealing with flat surfaces, it might be worth trying to move the box over a larger pad (used diapers are great for stuff like this). When you're done with that second polish, you can probably still get more polish just by using something like a paper towel. (Dry)

 

[jwin615]

(used diapers are great for stuff like this)

For that Fender Birch Green color

 

[jcpst]

This thread reminded me of the rosin finish tutorial that was posted a little while back.

Thread 'Envirotex Build Guide - final update'
https://forum.pedalpcb.com/threads/envirotex-build-guide-final-update.18510/

 

[chris.knudson]

Finishing an enclosure is an art form. In the end, you just have to be happy with what you've produced. I've seen hand painted enclosures; I've seen dipped enclosures; I've seen etched enclosures; I've seen polished enclosures; I've seen waterslides; I've seen laser engraved enclosures; I've seen film free waterslides; I've seen UV printed enclosures. I've even seen unfinished enclosures. The bottom line is that finishing the enclosure is probably the hardest part of building a pedal, and what really matters is that you're happy with the end result -- and, I'll speak for most of us, you'll probably never be 100% satisfied with the result, but the satisfaction comes from the attempt.

Having said all of that. I typically use the Rust-Oleum 2x Ultra-Cover paint + primer. All you need to do is a light sand and clean the enclosure with isopropyl alcohol or windex -- let it dry, and spray. The results are pretty flawless. It's really forgiving. After that, chose whatever method you want for applying the graphics, and then give it a clear coat of either acrylic or lacquer.

 

[The Gator]

First off if you can avoid painting The Box, do it...
That being said I've painted lots of boxes and lots and lots of other things as well. Because this is metal I'm going to highly recommend you use a self-etching primer. Upol is a fantastic phosphoric acid-based self etching primer.
U-POL 0741V Acid#8 Etch Primer Gray Aerosol, 13 Fl Oz. https://a.co/d/7HtA2ux
Perfect for aluminum.
I would have to say absolutely stay away from your typical consumer crap paint such as Krylon or Rust-Oleum or even DupliColor. I've used them all and I'm completely unimpressed every time. Downright frustrating. I'm sure others will disagree but that's just my opinion.
If you absolutely have to paint the boxes because you bought raw and you want color, I recommend an actual mix done at an automotive shop. Someone who will slap it in a rattle can for you. This usually is not cheap, but is excellent paint and will work with the Upol primer great.
Another thing that is amazingly high quality paint is Testor's model paint. At least it used to be. Not sure how it is right now cuz I've heard Rust-Oleum has bought Testors. Usually these paints have an enormous amount of pigment in them. So even though they come in a small can they're very effective. You can get enamel and lacquer and they dry really well. The clear coat "wet look" lacquer does not yellow like other lacquers. Granted it will not be a hard finish. Most clear coats are not that hard.
I've used lots of lacquer tried various kinds. In the end I decided to stay away from lacquer. Basically because most of them yellow if they're true lacquers. Acrylic lacquers are extremely expensive. The testors is about the best thing you could do for lacquer.
Enamels are a total pain in the ass. Very few of them thoroughly dry. Rattle cans of enamel are never usually designed to be used in the manner that we want to use them. If you could find a Sherwin-Williams enamel and a color you like, most of them have been pretty decent and eventually dry. I stay away from enamel's myself.
Acrylic is the way to go. Dries fast and it's fairly hard. Spray Max has a 1K acrylic clear coat that I have utilized with Automotive paints and the Upol primer. The best is spray Max 2K high gloss clear coat. This is pricey and you have to be really careful to cover your skin and don't get it on anything you don't want it to be. It is essentially a two-part epoxy clear coat. It is as hard as a rock. You have to make sure you get your finished just like you like it because you won't be sanding it.
I don't know that it's necessary for guitar pedals. How bad are you going to abuse these pedals? I think that's the question you have to ask yourself. If these pedals are just going to sit around in your house, it doesn't matter all that much.
If you're going to take him to gigs it definitely matters more. I'm not that hard on my stuff. I still have all my old equipment from back in the 90s and it all looks pretty good.
The best thing to do is powder coating. Buy them already powder coated or like I'm doing with the Gatordrives, have them powder coated the particular color you're looking for. If you can have your design UV printed on top of the powder coat that is the best way to go for graphics. I really have yet to do this, I'm still doing it the hard way and making my own vinyl decals, and then clear coating over the powder coat.
Pedals for personal use it doesn't really matter, I just recommend using decent paint to keep your frustration level down. Use a good self etching primer like I recommended. That's going to help everything stick the way it's supposed to. You can use the spray Max 1K acrylic clear coat as well. It works great, dries fast, and relatively hard finish.
One big mistake is to paint when things are cold or cool. I've done it many times myself. A big piece of advice I could give you for painting is You want to warm up the paint to around 90 to 100°, and the object you are painting. Sometimes I simply put everything in the Sun until it's all nice and hot. This gives excellent results with a rattle can. Increases the pressure and Smooths out the product. Remember something's never really done curing if you can still smell the solvent. When it's sitting there drying put it up to your nose and if you can still smell the paint it's not finished drying. Do not attempt to take out blemishes until it is done drying. Take out blemishes with really high grit wet dry sandpaper and paint rubbing compounds.

 

[Ginsly]

First off if you can avoid painting The Box, do it...

Oh, believe me- if I had it to do over again, I wouldn't have bought so many bare enclosures! I was just starting out and I was buying ALL components as well as hardware at the same time - besides, I assumed I would burn through a bunch of these raw boxes while learning to step-drill and all that. Things have been turning out well enough that they deserve to look better at this point.

This is all great info, TG. I'm actually a screen printer, and thought about using Acrylic ink on top and sealing it with that Watco Lacquer or something. Some say it'll work fine, others disagree. Maybe I'll just try it, but it may not last long. They'll mostly be pretty pampered with studio use, but friends are already asking for pedals. I'd feel bad if they chipped too easily.

As far as all-over color, those Testors paints sound like the most realistic/affordable (?) option. In that case I'd have to use a Testors clear coat too, sounds like. Auto paint and Upol sound rock-solid, but I'm afraid to know what they cost...

Another thing I'd try in a heartbeat is etching the top. I'd love to know a reliable, home-safe method of doing that. Sounds like people use a couple different chemicals to achieve that, but I don't know what's what.

I'll certainly be trying @Alan W's method of shining some of these up; I'll still need labels, though. Right now I'm using the 'ol "Red Dymo" embossed tape on raw aluminum! I honestly don't mind it, but... as a printmaker I'd feel a deep sense of shame if I didn't try a LITTLE harder!

Having said all of that. I typically use the Rust-Oleum 2x Ultra-Cover paint + primer. All you need to do is a light sand and clean the enclosure with isopropyl alcohol or windex -- let it dry, and spray. The results are pretty flawless. It's really forgiving. After that, chose whatever method you want for applying the graphics, and then give it a clear coat of either acrylic or lacquer.

Hmm this does sound like a very straightforward formula for success...

 

[The Gator]

Drilling enclosures:
I recommend cutting out just the faceplate part of the template but it is not absolutely necessary. I just think if you do so and line it up on the top carefully, and tape it down, you end up with more accurate results. Again, that's the just my opinion. What I will highly recommend is you use a punch instead of a drill bit to mark the holes, as that same template will remain more accurate for that one and the next one. After you've done this I also recommend using a drill press. If you don't have one, as many people don't, the punch works well to line up a drill bit with a free hand drill. I recommend slightly oversizing your holes. You can invest in a decent set of drill bits that are a full set such as fractional numbered and letter drill bits. This gives you the freedom to drill a hole just slightly larger so you can manipulate them maneuver if you've made a mistake. As well as if you have boxes sent off to the powder coater slightly larger holes helps out after it's been powder coated.

 

[phantom]

I work at a Ford dealership and am thinking about getting the body shop to paint them. The f-150 has aluminum body panels ao I think this could work. Has anyone had any experience doing this ?I would think to just have base coat done then add graphics and have the clear coated. They actually have a heated paint booth which is pretty cool.

 

[chris.knudson]

I would have to say absolutely stay away from your typical consumer crap paint such as Krylon or Rust-Oleum or even DupliColor. I've used them all and I'm completely unimpressed every time. Downright frustrating. I'm sure others will disagree but that's just my opinion.

I happen to be one of those who will disagree with this opinion. I do agree that powder coating will give you the best finish - no question about it. However, if you don't have the equipment or the know how to get a powder coat on your own, you can achieve good results with Rust-Oleum or Krylon. You just have to be patient and not overdo the application. Several thin coats will yield good results. At least that has been my experience.

 

[The Gator]

I understand what you're saying. And I would say if that's what someone wants to do for sure I wouldn't criticize them.
My criticism is most certainly with Krylon and Rustoleum. Krylon is not designed to work with any other product or even their own clear coat in some cases. It does not last very long, and it does not have very much pigment in it at all. So it seems like you're saving money, but not as much as you'd think. A can of model Masters Paint from testors has more pigment in it than a whole can of Krylon. It goes on smoother and dries
Rust-Oleum makes a few good paints. Specifically the hammer tone. When it's a fresh can you can use it and it'll dry in a decent time and be a pretty good finish. Again not much pigment compared for the size of the can, and it doesn't last very long.
Again just my opinion from my experiences painting a lot of different stuff. Enclosures, RC model aircraft, cars, guitars, etc.
I respect your disagreement. It is all personal preference.

 

[Ginsly]

I'm really glad there's some discussion about this. I figured there was some consensus about painting enclosures, but I should have known there would be multiple perspectives (as with pretty much everything). It's really helpful to hear everyone's different experiences with products, techniques, etc.

Paint aside - there IS an etching class where I teach screen printing, and I'm wondering if any of the chemicals they use on copper plates would work on aluminum... I'll have to look into that, haven't etched in a while. I realize it takes some finesse, but I'd do that in a heartbeat over messing with paint too much. No chipping!