Duo-Phase build, panel layout and LFO mod question...

[andare]

Nice work, and beautiful graphics. I’ve got one loaded except for the LDRs and pots, will be soon!

I make my own shielded wire for pedals, using braided desoldering tape and shrink wrap, I find it’s easier to work with. As you say, just ground at one end. Here’s a photo using this process.View attachment 27330

From the picture I can't tell how you make the shielded wire. It doesn't look like the desoldering braid is wrapped around the wire and the shrink wrap doesn't look shrunk (also first time seeing transparent shrink wrap)

 

[fig]

From what I’ve read/experienced, shielding is really only necessary for the input side but there are always points for symmetry!

 

[Alan W]

From the picture I can't tell how you make the shielded wire. It doesn't look like the desoldering braid is wrapped around the wire and the shrink wrap doesn't look shrunk (also first time seeing transparent shrink wrap)

First I measure out the length of wire that is needed, and strip the ends. Then, I have a 1/16th diameter piece of steel wire that I ground a soft pointed end on (a very fine knitting needle works great for this instead of the steel wire) that I use to open up the flat braid. (This is the only finicky part.) I push the wire into the tube of braid, and pull the braid taut. Then, measure out some fine shrink wrap. I like clear, just because the copper braid is pretty. Before shrinking the wrap, cut a small piece of wire to attach the ground at one end. On this wire, I strip out 3/4 of an inch and poke this into the braid shield, then shrink the outer wrap.

If a pedal has any gain, any noise picked up by the input wire gets amplified by the gain, so inputs that reach all the way to the footswitch get this treatment. I do also do the out feed; on most pedals this is not necessary, but ones with noisy internal parts (LFOs, etc.) seem worthwhile, and, as Fig has noted, symmetry can’t hurt. Once you are used to making the “coax” it goes very fast. I did this initially because it was faster than cutting and stripping/isolating coax. (Plus, I do this in audio equipment builds, and I strongly prefer solid core wire.)

 

[andare]

First I measure out the length of wire that is needed, and strip the ends. Then, I have a 1/16th diameter piece of steel wire that I ground a soft pointed end on (a very fine knitting needle works great for this instead of the steel wire) that I use to open up the flat braid. (This is the only finicky part.) I push the wire into the tube of braid, and pull the braid taut. Then, measure out some fine shrink wrap. I like clear, just because the copper braid is pretty. Before shrinking the wrap, cut a small piece of wire to attach the ground at one end. On this wire, I strip out 3/4 of an inch and poke this into the braid shield, then shrink the outer wrap.

If a pedal has any gain, any noise picked up by the input wire gets amplified by the gain, so inputs that reach all the way to the footswitch get this treatment. I do also do the out feed; on most pedals this is not necessary, but ones with noisy internal parts (LFOs, etc.) seem worthwhile, and, as Fig has noted, symmetry can’t hurt. Once you are used to making the “coax” it goes very fast. I did this initially because it was faster than cutting and stripping/isolating coax. (Plus, I do this in audio equipment builds, and I strongly prefer solid core wire.)

Thanks a lot. The shielded wire I have is kinda ugly to work with. The insulation is very thick and the wire is heavy. It tends to pull the small braided wire away from the lugs. Using solid wire and adding the shielding seems a bit fiddly but more durable.

 

[jacobsteel]

Sorry for slightly off topic but I finished the Krautrock phaser.

The relevance to this discussion is: "But how do lightbulbs sound in contrast to LEDs" - and how could you add CV?

Because of the smallish footprint of the DuoPhase I tried the CV and lightbulbs in this one. Reveal: Lightbulbs appear to give much longer and more nuanced "dark-time"... but bulbs consume much more power (needs their own cooling and PSU... )
As lightbulbs' darkening takes some time phasers controlled by Lightbulb-LDR will sound different (slower, but at times crunchier in the dark-end).

Link to Shulte Compact Phasing A / Krautrock Phaser project thread

 

[Matopotato]

Great work!
A bit late to the party, but still hoping:
I assume the LDRs are bent so that the wavelike side is facing the LED, and the LED is flush to the board. Then how do you place the LDRs at an optimal height?
Or maybe it does not matter that much...

 

[giovanni]

Great work!
A bit late to the party, but still hoping:
I assume the LDRs are bent so that the wavelike side is facing the LED, and the LED is flush to the board. Then how do you place the LDRs at an optimal height?
Or maybe it does not matter that much...

That’s how I have done it too. I placed the LDRs so that their top is basically flush with the LED (still with the light sensitive part facing the LED). I think if you position them too offset from the LED you end up with less light and thus a higher resistance value.

 

[Matopotato]

That’s how I have done it too. I placed the LDRs so that their top is basically flush with the LED (still with the light sensitive part facing the LED). I think if you position them too offset from the LED you end up with less light and thus a higher resistance value.

Thanks, So you put them even a bit closer to the LED than what the the pictures at the beginning of the thread (May 22) show?

 

[giovanni]

They look more or less the same, here's my build.